drifto

Maybe i can help. Don't drink and play on the internet! Get off the drugs! Seek help! No need to thank me champ!

i wanna help yu mate but it's too hard to type whilst laughing!

I've got scoliosis now from driving the last 2 years with my head tilted. The sunroof is the prob, race seats on customs rails fix it no drama. Anyone got one or two? Looking to buy straight away.

f & f r f*&%cked

The biggest prob with 32's is that lack of torque off boost and the mid range revs you need to get it on boost. But after going for a few laps around Oran Park with Ian Luff driving my 32, stuffed LSD and all. I think a landcruiser could be drifted if driver is good enough. He simply goes mega quick into the corner then jumps on the brakes and throws out the back on the entry. Once it's sliding it's easy to keep the wheel spinning and then balance the car. I couldn't beleive the speed, lilke 3rd gear +100k's into almost every corner. He dropped a wheel off each side of the track and clipped every ripple strip with perfection choosing the line he wanted. Legend!

A bloody WRX won Targa this year! Nothing more to say! Not happy! Alright, I had something else to say.

Hey Roy, Can you give me the measurement of the bottom of the seat (fabric side) to the bottom of where the rail would go (floor) I need to get as low as possibly cause my bloody head hits the bloody sunroof which is crap. I think you may remember, didn't we swap cars at Eastern Creek Moto concepts day?

Yeah MSPEC but did you intend to change lanes? lol

I took mine to 7000 in 5th with a 4.3 diff. The speedo was obviously back at the zero but it's pretty easy to calculate. If your doing 120km/h at 3500 rpm then your doing 240 at 7000. But, not many speedos are that acurate at 120km/h. especially when you change wheels, tyres, diffs etc. Either way, if you get caught your F!@#$ed

The angle of the tail hanging out is increased because you are accelerating the car forwards and turning it around the corner. The spinning back wheels have less friction then the front wheel ( i will try and explain that in a sec ) The back therefore is thrown out from the centre of rotation of the car , ie the back tries to continue straight ahead while the front turns and the car goes sideways. To materials in contact with each other have a coeficient of friction. When a force is applied to those to materials that is trying to move there surfaces along each other, ie accelrate, turn, brake. No slip will happen until you reach the coefficient of friction for those materials. Once you reach it, slip will happen which immediately lowers the coefficent of friction and therfore causes more slip and so on. Providing more force to the situation by applying more throttle only increases the slip and lowers the coefficient futher. The only way to regain the original static friction is to take away the force that is causing it, but you have to take more away fisrtly because you lowered that threshold immediately as you broke traction originally. After it is reestablished more force can be applied up to the point of breaking traction again. In practise this is why accelrating from standstill in the wet without spinning is quicker than just sitting there spinning on the rev limiter. Put a piece of wet paper on a surface like glass. Push it until it moves and you will be able to continue pushing it with less force than you needed to get it going in the first place. Proffesor DRIFTO

A turbo go bang as as Denton R33 put it, after constant abuse by lifting off full throttle at full boost often and overboosting. Both ways will vary between turbos in how long or when it will make the turbo go bang. It want happen because yours makes a flutter sound which normal and will be heard better when you remove the stock airbox and filter set up. Adding a front mount will change the sound in terms of duration, frequeancy and volume, but no the fact it happens or not. My brother had a stock black top rb20 in his 31 4 door and a APEX GT Spec front mount. It had the most awsome and loud flutter. He ran 14psi with the stock ceramic turbo and never hurt it. My 32 has a blitz BOV and because of the spring tension being higher than a stock silver top blow off valve, it doesn't open unless there is a substantial pressure increase caused by a sudden lift off under high boost. Which is when you won't it to go PERCHEW not flutter. If you drive around normally and change gears during the spool up phase and not on boost, it makes a nice tight flutter unlike my brothers one which was loud, long and slow sounding. A weak setting in any BOV will cause the BOV to open under moderate pressure levels giving you a single PERCHEW not the flutter maybe before you are on boost. No good for spooling up which will make the car feel laggy.

Cheers Aurora, I read that thread and it seems like a bad idea to convert to a single shaft. Pretty much why i asked the queastion in the first place. Does anyone know where or who to get a new centre bearing? Ta. Drifto

Spotted a whiteish (stucko) 32 GTR (plates GTR 94V) with nice NISMO graphics on its intercooler. He was cruising thru QBN Monday around 2:30pm and had a Supra behind him and there was a shmick 3000GT around the corner probulary cruising with them. Was there a cruise on Today?

True or not? Does the centre bearing in the Skyline tailshaft wear and eventually cause a bad vibration thru the car. Can you replace the stock shaft with a custom 1 piece to fix the problem? My diff rebuilder thinks so and can do the 1 piece conversion for @ $400-$500. Note: He does have a good reputation but there is a lot of Ford & Holdens in his garage.

Ultimate's chew up your rotors, have good bite and resitant to fade to the point that most people will never reach on the road. I had em in my 32 when i got the car, then I had to put new rotors on and went with a set of slotted and drilled EBC rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads in the front with Greeb Stuff in the rear. They were shit for road because they never got up to working temp and wore very quickly. I got stuck in Sydney on a Sunday afternoon with metal on metal and got the only pads i could get, being a set of 200sx Bendix Advance. They bite good from cold but feel shit braking from high speed and begin to fade pretty quickly. For example At the bottom of Maquarie Pass the Reds were starting to bite nicely, By about 5 big stops on the Advance they were not biting much anymore. Next purchase is a set of Pagid street pads.

I've ridden the 2000 gsxr 750 and the 2002 gsxr 1000. 750 is track god 1000 is street beast and track weapon. 1000 against r1, have completely different feel. Don't discount a 2nd 2004 1000 fireblade or even zx10 bothare weapons. Depends on what you feel more comfortable with doing the riding your intending to do. There aint a bad bike out there some just better then others. Went to Wakefeild today too, r1 on poll then two fireblades then the suzi.

Jakes not in QBN anymore, I think he's at Mitchell ACT. Spotted that blackish 33 t with the blue/silver flame graphics over the front bonnet and gaurds on Kings HWY just after the twisty bit coming out of QBN. But it was only a glimpse because our closing speed was around 250km/h. I made up about 150 of that!!! Don't you just love the cool crisp air of Autumn.

Dem fightn wordz.

Patrick Not trying to put you off mate, but if you think waiting until you have your P's is going to bring you all the experience necessary to safely and affordably own a Skyline; Please think again. I don't think boys brains start thinking like mens until your around 25 years old, at which point you start to realise your not invincible and understand the consequences of poor decisions. This is because you have had about 8 years driving shit boxes, learning from these mistakes and are still alive to tell the story. By all means, be a car nut like the rest of us; but take on board other peoples advice from their experiences and don't learn it the hard way. Good Luck again! DRIFTO

Had a service and they found a cracked chassis bolt, one of the concerning creaks and groans from the car has gone and the vibration is not as bad.

Cheers Daniel, I can do alot of mechanical stuff myself but never seem to have the right tools and always get stuck half way thru a job with the car in pieces and no way to get to Super Cheap! However, it's a start. As for the driveline probs, I swapped the locker diff it had in it for the original when it became really noisy. Now the original is as noisy and keeps throwing a leg out of bed when things get twisty. I had the diff mechanic inspect the driveline for possible causes of vibration and he told me the rear uni was rooted. I had the tailshaft sent to Spies Hecker engineering in Wollongong to have a new uni put on and the whole thing balanced. They sent it back saying there was no imbalance and the uni was fine, and they didn't charge for it. I recently had an engine swap and one mount was broken, but a new mount didn't fix the vibration. It's irrelavent of what gear i'm in, but generally at about 45-50km/h and worse under load. The only thing that it might be is I first began to feel it when one of my rear cradle bushes collapsed, the other went aswell at which point driving the car was interesting. You can't buy new cradle bushes for skylines, only a whole new cradle that includes the bushes. You can fit the pineapples to tighten things up or change the inclanation of the cradle but only when the original bushes remain intact. I had to install the alloy cradle spaces from JMS and that basically locks the subframe to the car without the cushioning of the original bush. I have been told that the vibration is inherent and that a stock setup is designed to minimise this. Having a solid mount just transferrs the vibrations through the car and shakes everything to bits but there is actually nothing broken or umbalanced therefore just live with it. Sound correct ????

They put the wrong photos with the info on the 32, what 34 do you know comes with 16inch alloys and a radio cassette. Yeah hah!

Patrick, Don't be silly mate! First car should be a datsun 180B, you can flog shit out of it daily, put any fuel in it that you can scrape together from money begged off your friends and parents, occasionally hit gutters and parked cars or even mobile cars without too much to worry about, even take it rallying down some dodgy fire service trail in the National Park and if you bounce of a few trees who cares. The point is, as a confessed car nut you will flog to death your first car and do really stupid things in it. You'll either blow it up or write it off before you get a chance to upgrade so don't put yourself in a situation where your paying big money each week just too own it, then more to run it, then can't afford to insure it, then crash it being chased by the cops at over 180kmph or if your lucky only get caught by the cops and jailed along with your car, license and future driving career confiscated for about 5 years. Anyone who suggests a Skyline is a good first car - SHAME, SHAME, SHAME Just my opinoin speaking from personal experience. Good Luck whatever you do.

At 15 years old my r32 gts is getting a little loose. I have a bad vibration thru the driveline that no one can pick, squeaks, groans and clunks from all corners of the car & most interior parts like air vents, sunroof, door trims etc, all rattle to the tune of the car. Obviously running around Sydney streets and now bad country roads on coil over bilsteins doesn't help, nor the urathane bushes on the adjustable castor rods or the solid aluminium spaces in the rear sub frame. But has anyone begun the task of sorting all their annoying squeaks and rattles and what have you found? What are the common parts that need replacement, and who can do it? Any comments are appreciated.

Sounds like fuel cut from the boost limiter in the stock CPU. If your not running more then 9 or 10 psi or do have a boost cut defender then it would be the fuel supply not keeping up with demand as you come on boost hard. Another cause is old or faulty plugs, or wrong plug gap. Take em out and inspect the colour and condition of the core and electrode. The reason why i would think it is not plugs initially, is the fact that it happens only at 5-6 grand and then cleans up to the red line. When my plugs were bad it broke down all the way to the red line when ever under high boost load.