drifto

You get upto 300 rwkw safetly through a standard GTR cooler. They have perfectly designed end tanks for good flow unlike the hybrid that enters in and exits out in an abrubt way that is usually focused across the bottom of the cooler. You wont need to spend much more than about $500 all up to have it put in with all new custom piping either.

I had a mate borrow the car and thought the hand brake was locked on. I leave each morning and don't take it passed 2500 in 4th until i feel the funny kick. Something must get to correct temp and change timing and fuel settings to suit then she runs fine.

I don't like the idea of a rb30 for a number of reason, they came in commodores they are single cam, unless you spend lots of money purchasing and fitting a 25 or 26 head i'll definatley need a new turbo for 3 litre capacity rego, insurance, resale It also changes the cars character too much! But thanks anyway for your option

Checked out those other posts, thanks Skyline Boy! Seems my RB24 will be limited straight away by the stock head unless i'm gonna port, valve & cam it. I'v heard the same regarding the 25 head tho ? Would a 25 conversion require changes to the gearbox, clutch or other things apart from the hassle of having the new dispacement certified and engineered. If i throw another rb20 in now then build my original one I can put it back in with original engine numbers before rego is up and no one the wiser about it 2.4 capacity. The questions are, what is the standard head capable of flowing as i'm not after top end peak power but a torquey power curve that will stay stong till about 7500 rpm Would my existing HKS turbo be too small for the 2.4 capacity? either way it has to be better than a stock rb25 ceramic wheel. If we can keep this thread going for a while i'll post results and experiencres as it happens. Should be good info for a lot of skyline owners looking at rebuild options.

Good comments Guys, Cheers I'm waiting for a qoute from my engine builder who just happened to have a GTR crank & set of rods. He also suggested the toyota forged pistons which are reasonably priced compared to custom forgys or aftermarket jappo ones. I will post this option as it comes together. Meanwhile my engine wont even start, mechanic thinks now that the comp ratio is so low in some of the cylinders that it can't kick. It had been running pretty well before so some damage may have been done when the original leaky injector prob caused a severe flooding of the engine. He has got it to start but only by taking all the full pressure out of the rail to about 12psi, as soon as the fuel press is normal about 35psi it floods and stalls?????? So now i'v gotta put a new engine in. Apparently!!! $700 for 2nd hand rb20 minus turbs, $600 for install labour Should i just go an rb25 now instead? I already have APEX piggy back AFC & ITC GTR fuel pump & adjustable fuel reg A steel wheel HKS turbo of uknown specs (200rwkw 15psi RB20)

I would like some help with the options I'm looking at. My 32 gts is street driven, but needs to be strong and reliable for light competion use in hill climbs, super sprints and tarmac rallies events. With it's original RB20, a few bolt on support systems and a 15psi via an old HKS turbo it was making a healthy 200rwkw. However it has now lost a significant amount of compression and needs replacing or a rebuild. Option A: rebuild another RB20 with GTR crank, rods & forged toyota pistons giving me @ 2.4 litres Option B: fit an RB25 Option C: fit an RB26 I want at least the same level of power as before with increased torque in the lower revs. I'm not sure how much money needs to be spent on top of the first two options in order to achieve the same performance and reliability level of an RB26. But Option B & C will not be rebuilt after purchasing due to the initial outlay. Anyone done anything like this and whats involved that i may not know about??

I'm keen for a cruise when my car get out of EVO, Did a mad run the other day by myself thru sutton, Mq Pass, Kiama, back to robertson via Jamberoo Rd, Kangaroo Valley and home. Awsome drive would enjoy it more with others and arranged stops at Robertson Pie shop, Kiama for lunch, Sutton Pub for afternoon coffe or (Light) beer and home. I would think it's a bad idea to post dates and actual routes on this forum for any cruise arranged as cops are known to patrol these sights. keep it private between email addresses. [email protected]

For Sale Number Plates "DRIFTO" Black on White slimline front $1500 ono [email protected] Cheers Nick

Matt, what drugs r u on? Explain to me how drag effect the speed vs rpm.

G'day JAY More boost will probulary induce more wastegate creep and give same result. Invest in a HKS electronic boost controller and wastegate actuator, it's one of the best mods to a stock turbo system to improve boost response and will help hold boost higher in the rev range. The only llimiting factor will be the turbo but it should be able to produce 13psi all day safley till redline. I also agree there's more power to be had with a leaner setting in the top end but this way she'll be safe from detonation. Cheers Nick

It's time to change! Going for more of the GT look and setup and not a doorifto anymore! Would like $1500 for plates, black on white customs DRIFTO Reasonable offer will be accepted. Cheers The 32 formily known as drifto!

Interseted in the cooler! Is it stock 33 GTR? Is it checked for leaks, splits, damage? Where the hell is Rockingham in relation to Queanbeyan or Canberra? I will pay freight if you can post it and all else checks out!

Yes, i have one made by CUSCO which is seperate to my strut tower brace. It stops or helps firwall flex and there fore improves pedal feel but not ultimate stopping distance or time. I also found it is hard to narrow down the culprit of a braking problem because it is such a complex system. I had poor braking at a track day after spending $1400 on a brake upgrade that included: EBC drilled and slotted rotors (original size) EBC RED STUFF front pads EBC GREEN STUFF rear pads DOT 5.1 race fluid This is the same parts used in the Monaros that raced Targa Tassy by Brock & the other Guy! On the track the red front pads weren't getting to operating temp and biting properly so the green rears were overworking. The rears then cooked and faded causing the fronts to do all the work. They then got to hot and faded. After taking them back in disgust the installer he even said the hubs had caught on fire :flamed: at some stage by the discoulouring of the hub & inside of the rims. The point is a system needs to be matched to a paticular car and the conditions it's driven in. I drove ROY's 32 at same track day and was blown away by the stopping power. Well done RACE BRAKES! :aroused:

Yeah, but not that close to Sydney. John at Progress Motors in Queanbeyan does it. But the tool is very easy to come by and i would expect most body repair shops would have or know a place that has the tool. It only really fold the lip under the guard right in tight for about 1/2 to 1 inch xtra clearence. For proper pumping you gotta cut the gaurd fold it out, weld in some more metal than file it back and have the whole guard prepped and sprayed proffessionally. Starts to get very expensive. Good Luck Drifto

G'Day guys, thought i can ad some info on the topic, My 32 has an old HKS turbo of about the same flow capabilities as the current GT2530, obviously a bit slower coming on boost due to the plain bearing. With a small front mount, fuel reg, GTR pump, filter, exhaust and APEX computers it turned an easy 200rwkw on 15psi. Due to two injectors recently retired I am now adding 550cc nismos, cam pulleys, and GTR cooler. I'm confident the turbo can hold 1.5 bar and therefore hoping for about 250rwkw. With over 100 k on the clock I'm slightly worried about the internals and things such as the head gasket handling this power level but with the price of another RB20 so low who cares. I'm more worried about the turbo life. Not sure how long it's got left as it is already old. So have been considering the options if it does go poof!!!! I strongly suggest for any street driven RB20 that the turbo should at least be able to produce over 10psi from around 3500 rpm or it will be horrible to drive. Mine is capable of only 5 psi at 3000 rpm but comes on very hard at 4000 to 15 psi. Sydneykid- how do you explain the difference between turbo lag and turbo response range! People still confuse the two and therefore make bad choices with turbos thru inaccurate info. Test turbo lag by holding the engine at a rev where the turbo can make full bost then hit it. The delay between vacuum and boost is lag. Flooring it from 2000 rpm and watching grandma drive past in her laser then using the excuse of I have lots of turbo lag is wrong! Anyway, Sydneykid is write in saying average power is important! Especially on RB20 where off boost driving is bad enough with a stock turbo.

G,Day Elithrar If your after a reliable and tuneable upgrade, I think you are better off having you stock t28 rebuilt with steel wheels with trims suited for more flow capacity and higher boost levels. Don't limit your power upgrade now buy having a ceramic turbo that can only hold 13-14 psi for half a day hard driving before it shits itself. (what HPI Vol 5 ) The RB20 unlike the RB25 can handle 1.5 bar without modifing internals. As mine has! You will undoubtebly search for more power in the future and the turbo should not be the weakest link as it is one of the most costly components to the system. The difference from runnig 1 bar to 1.5 bar on a stock RB20 means you need to consider the following upgrades. Dump pipe, cat and muffler atleast 75-80mm (3 inch) ECU piggy back controlers like Apex power FC or custom ECU remap Qaulity front mount intercooler High capacity fuel pump(GTR works well) and a high press fuel regulator 550cc injectors Oil breather & catch can Quality manifold pressure release valve ( blow off valve ) Electronic adjustable boost controller Of course all this power will be dodgy if you havn't tightend up the chassis with strut tower braces and decent springs and shocks. Then you need a better clutch and possibly a tighter LSD. As you can see, when you take a jump up in performace of the turbo, the flow on effect of upgrades is very costly. At least you can run 1 bar on stock engine with Steel wheel turbo, 75mm exhaust, front mount cooler and piggy back ecu set up to take advantage of the mods. This will be very reliable for a long time and you have the option of upgrading every else before you turn the wick up on the boost controller. I suggest do the chassis, clutch, wheels and tyres first. Good Luck, Keep us informed of progress

It will fit no worries, beacause they were manufactured with an RB20 in Japan. You'll will have problems when it comes to the electrical systems and matching them to the R31 stuff presuming yours was a RB30 Aussi version. Best bet is to by a complete front cut of a Jappo R31 GTS or GTX - t with all wiring looms dash board, funky headlights and better front sturts and rotors maybe even twin piston callipers.

Squealing sounds from brakes are caused by the extremely fast vibrations in the pad and pistons making contact with the brake rotor. Acting simily to a record and needle, the fine grooves on the rotor face cause hamonics that we hereas sqeals. It is common in cars that have had new pads fitted without machining the rotor. You'll here alot of race cars brakes squeal because they usually throw new pads in during a meet without machining the rotor. It doesn't effect braking effeciency measurably and therefore only hurts your ears, the only real cure is to machine or renew the rotor. Also bedding in pads varies considerably from pad to pad. Check the recommendation on the box.

Is everyone aware that there are three ways to install the "Pineapples", 1-Standard-rear subframe alignment normal 2-Drag-rear subframe declined to promote squat 3-Drift - rear subframe inclined to inhibit squat Another thing to consider is the state of your stock subframe bushes which contain a fluid to minimise hash ride, noise and vibrations. In my case two of the four had busted and there was severe movement in the rear end, also very noisy over bad roads and severe wheel hopping when launching hard. Pinapples only work when installed with the original fluid bushes. You cannot purchase these bushes from anywhere. You can only buy a subframe from a wrecked car and swap the whole thing over- big job! Instead i had solid aluminium bushes installed that completely lock the subframe rigid to the chassis. Very responsive steering and rear end control but extreme harshness thru suspension and vibrations from the driveline at 40-45KPH

jeeeeez there's alot of bullshit that get pushed around these forums and not many of us are experts but we all believe we're right. My theory is delevoped from talking to so called experts and I believe it makes sense. No.1 The fluttering sound is better termed wastegate chatter! It is there air pressure in the turbo and intercooler system building and escaping thru the internal wastegate of the turbo when a sudden lift of will cause these internal pressures to rise rapidly and open the wastegate at the set level by your boost control. No.2 The sound varies from car to car and turbo to turbo depending on intercooler core size, tract length, turbo size, wastegate actuator type, boost controller and boost level. No.3 My particular set up has a very tight and quick chatter on lift of at any time when the boost level has not been reached and therefore the internal wastegate is closed. When the set boost level has been reached and the internal wastegate is wide open and you lift off quickly the BOV will open rapidly and quickly dispell all the internal pressure with a single woosh sound (plumbed back too). With higher boost levels the chatter gets louder, quicker and the BOV sounds starts to almost make a cracking sounds as it snaps open. Another RB20 with stock turbo and 14psi had a very loud, long and slow chatter. This is due to the stock wastegate actuator and the bleed type boost controller having poor control over the turbo sytem combined with a large intercooler. The more effecient the system the tighter and quicker the chatter. Have a listen to a rally car some time as it lift's on and off thru a corner.

I had a modified R200 diff in my 32 gts and it would click as it was nearly at the point of locking. This usually happens when doing slow speed tight turns under very light throttle. I put the stock R180 back in and apart from it not having much limo effect any more it also clicks but no where near as loudly. These are normal sounds from any mechanical LSD that uses dry clutch plates instead of a viscous fluid to lock the centre under load. They are adjutable by simply putting more shims in the centre to tighten the clutches. Just go the mini spool it's much better

I bought my 32 with a half worn set. Three months later they were gone. I guess it depends on your driving, i was not kind to them. On a plus side they are unbeatable on the road once there was heat in them. The feel and bite was beautiful even on damp surface. I'm now running TOYO TS-1 and they suck!

whatch out for brands that can't be serviced locally or cheaply as I found out with my Bilsteins. There are only some people who can revalve and service them and ofcourse you pay more for that too.

It's all about attitude dam it!!!!! The more the merry 'er