BAMR33

Bahaha... I couldn't resist either, nice cool night minimal traffic. Boosted it up to .8bar no troubles. Looks friggin cool at night. Na, the duty cycle is purely to do with boost control by controlling the duration the solenoid is open and bleeding off air. It has no effect on the rate of spooling, the higher the DC the more air is getting bleed off ie. tricking the wastegate actuator into running more boost.

Oooo, now I understand what your saying. I'm not one to speak but you need to structure your sentences a little better.

'10 out 15' what kind of BS statistic is that. Sounds like your mechanic doesn't have a clue about what he's talking about. Do yourself a favour and find a decent a tuner.

It's now wired in, sh1t's rock'n an roll'n. I just went with the rpm signal as I'll have the pfc to monitor injector duty. For now I'll be running a big 10% DC just to stablize the boost curve ie. not solely relying on wastegate (probably bump it up to 9psi) Untill I get the rest of mods on and a proper tune i'm not gunna bother running anymore boost.

Thanks philta, I just want to make out with you . I found my problem I was looking at the plug the wrong way... This is the way I should have been looking at it. Problem solvered. yay

Hey Guys, I have just started to install my avc-r boost controller and have found the vehicle specific wiring diagram obtained from the official apexi site does not match that of my ECU. My car is a 1995 series1 gts25t. Below is the picture of the plug and where I was going to splice the wires at. (Note no rpm signal pin where it supposed to be) Does anyone know what deal with this is or where the actual rpm pin is? Also, have I got it upside down or the wrong diagram??? And here is the pin out diagram provided by apexi. Any help much appreciated, as I'm baffled.

As 'R31Nismoid' says, allow for +-15rwkw variance on different dyno's. There are that many variables that can affect the power output (Tyre size, wheel spin, dyno calibration etc.) and if you had issues with your mechanic he's probably tuned it rich just to be safe. Did your mechanic use FC datalogit to tune the PFC or just the hand controller?

Looks like a well executed idea, kinda pointless though don't you think...

Bump.... Any more progress?

Going back to the original question why would you go to all the effort of putting a straight pipe through the cat? its pointless, if a cop pulls you over its usually due to the smell or noise and then they'll send you to the transport department. There are performance gains from a straight through pipe, but its not worth it on your daily driver.

You're probably confusing aftermarket atmospheric BOV's with actually blocking off the standard BOV. Do a search on those two.

Are BKR6EIX's suitable for this application (slide turbo 18psi in rb25)?

I wish I was a hardcore touge racer with a cf tailshaft and no other engine mods.

Hey man, it sounds like your mummy and daddy pay for everything anyway, why not just not have no insurance and then your parents can just replace the car when you wrap it around a pole :sorcerer: . Also if can't afford the insurance you can't afford the car simple as that.

Is it only the oil feed line that you replaced or the oil return as well?

Learn how to spell before making a post .

otomoto.com but they're sold out till next month.

No more straight 6

PM sent

I doubt it, the cheapest from a shop would be around the $300 mark. On this forum they are $230 through performance wise and that's the cheapest trader 040 I've ever seen.

I really don't know if this will work, but you could try to hook up the factory pressure sensor to the avc-r.

Not true, think about what you have said.... My solenoid is disconnected as it was playing up and bleeding off 4psi, once unplugged boost retuned to 7psi with some spiking as expected. This guy is correct vvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Yeah, you can even tell the difference by hand. After a bit of spirited run, feel the temp of the pipe straight out of the intercooler and then the return pipe near the cam gear cover....big difference. Just go to an exhaust place and get some of the insulating fabric they put around headers, isn't too unsightly and works well

I'm not sure, as I bought it from another sau member. Either way its exedy so it is a good clutch, the only reason I'm not using it is I'm modding my car more and will need something good for 260rwkW.

Cheap at $150....