BAMR33

bump $245 anyone?

Hey Guys Having a little trouble here removing a rear upper control arm to install a whiteline adjustable camber kit. I've got the bolt undone & out the side closest to the hub except the other side seems have an eccentric washer fitted for factory camber adjustment. This washer seems to be pressed onto the bolt because the nut came off but bolt won't come out. There is a groove on the bolt and section cut out on the washer but I'm not sure how this helps, I'm thinking it might need some sought of puller to get it off. I've tried some light persuasion with a rubber mallet but I don't want to destroy the thread on the bolt or the washer for that matter. Got some pics of suspect. Any help on how to remove this washer will be much appreciated. Thanks, Brett.

Pics now up

PM replied. Pics will be up soon.

Item:Apexi EL2 Boost Gauge (White Face) with Systems meter. Age:About a year Condition:Near perfect Price:$260 Posted To Fit: Any turbo car Location: Toowoomba QLD 4350 Contact: PM or reply to thread Comments: Comes with everything: Gauge, Stand, Wiring loom, pressure sensor, systems meter, hose, t-piece Bit of info about the EL gauge sourced from the net. The Apexi EL series 60mm (2.36") meter face allows for quick, accurate views of needle position. Multi-angle Meter Stand allows for virtually unlimited mounting position within the cockpit. Compact wiring (3mm dia.) allows inconspicuous wiring within the cockpit. For electronic gauges: Meter Control Unit is required to activate electronic EL2 System meters. Up to 6 EL2 System Meters can be controlled from 1 Control Unit. Control Unit allows for one-touch access to memory recording and replay, warning setting, and peak hold functions. Brett.

Bunnings have pressure rated joining hoses with clamps, they look surprisingly near identical to stock piping hose. I think they even have reducers from memory. They're in the section where the potato gun supplies are (PVC downpipe etc).

290

They look pretty damn good IMO, even if they're not as functional as factory items they can show what the r35 can look like. The stock r35 is pretty bland in comparison. All you jdm jocks are just too hardcore, at least the Americans are contributing in someway to aftermarket parts and development, what has Australia done...

I see your problem, a restrictive rear housing. An aftermarket exhaust manifold might help your case a bit. All the same 247kW is a pretty decent effort out of gcg hi-flow, I'd leave it at that.

Nice effort man. Not really a related question but how many skylines do you see over there and whats the price to get them into the country.

I originally had Dan's blue led's in the dash but with the amec white dials, colour distribution was poor and just looked like poo. Then I bought the bright white leds which worked well except I got bored of that after a short while so I tried this. It's really not that bright, it's just the pics.

DIY with use of dan666's white led's at the back and blue led's projecting on the white dials. I've also got a switch to turn the blue lights off so it just looks like a standard dash with white numbers. I was going to go all bright white but wanted some contrast and the blue matched the turbo timer which was already in place.

Pretty kewl I thought, maybe a bit ricey. In real life it isn't as glarey looking

Ceramic turbine wheel, nylon compressor wheel

Q-bond for the lazy person.

Yeah useless cnuts, they're just normal belts... Gates make them and repco sell them, pretty piss weak if can't provide basic road side assistance. Best bet cancel the payments to nrma and invest in a set of belts, spark plugs, basic tools etc. just to sit in your car so you can do road side repairs yourself.

now imagine what times that would do with rb26/30dett.

That critic guy was dickhead. Car running on DIY hydrogen not a bad idea though.

r35's are never really going to become affordable because of the limited production of the model. I think they'll still be pulling 50k in 10 years time if there's not another gt-r after the r35.

Test each of these one at a time so you know what the culprit is. 1. tighten all clamps again 2. adjust the screw on the IAC valve while the car is idling, see if you can find a smooth idle point. 3. Clean afm 4. Check that no vacuum hoses have removed and not put back on during installation i.e. to charcoal canister. 5. Pressurize the intercooler piping, look for any leaks.

yeah, skylines are well in the reach of the poor man and his monthly dole payments. Buuutttt what's funny about commodores is their resale value, buy a new one and the next year its worth less than half what you paid for it.

Avoid a rebuild, they're strong engines. I'd just go a bigger IW garrett turbo and a 'good' exhaust manifold (not cheap shit). You already have bigger injectors and afm right?

probably filter.

oil breather vents into the intake too.

ssswwsssshhhh tsutustu