BAMR33

My thoughts exactly, I was half expecting an advertisement for a GPS or main roads awareness.

A9X Torana. and Yes I was raised as a bogan

Lines at dreamworld on the Christmas holidays are so bad, everything takes 30mins to go on and the undercover waiting areas are hot and stink like BO. I'd go to wet'n'wild shorter lines, you aren't stinking hot and the rides are more fun.

I don't think the stock gauges are too bad, it's just that people don't know how to read them. Gauge on the r34 1.00 kg/cm2 = 14.22psi Stock boost about 0.55 kg/cm2 = 7.82psi If you've have changed the exhaust, filter etc. the boost level will probably increase even without a boost controller.

Too much effort and cost for too little gain especially if you choose wrong, it's really not worth it on an rb20 unless your aiming for 250kW+. The shortening of the intercooler piping will have no effect on the net hp, it'll just make it a bit more throttle responsive at cruising speeds, but you'll also lose that with the huge volume of after market plenum's.

That was a rhetorical question. I know a hot shut down is not good for a turbo but trying to make your car idle without an afm is worse.

I'm fairly sure it's a straight bolt on, some of the early rb20's had different banjos probably should check up on this and you'll also need the turbo elbow from the rb25 turbo.

Not too sure why you'd want to keep the car running with a popped off cooler pipe. A quick shut down time is going to do less damage than trying to keep the car running with unmetered air entering the engine. Shouldn't have done any damage though, everyone has it happen to them at some stage and I haven't heard of busted engine or turbo from it.

I did have a photo at some stage can't find it though. The GT-R reo looks nearly the same as the gts-t except for the bit that goes across in the middle. If you cut the middle bit out and clean it all up neatly so it looks like it was never there you can get away with it. You've also got less chance of finding a GT-R reo than a gtst, they seem to be a rare variety with many people have small front end crashes all the time.

As stated buying premodded is so much cheaper and easier but be wary. If the person selling the car looks sketchy and you find things like rubber plastered under the rear wheel arches you can bet the cars had a flogging and sooner rather than later you'll be up for expensive repairs i.e. rebuild etc.

R34 side mount intercooler $150ish r32 wastegate actuator (holds a safe 10-12psi) $40 K&N panel filter $100ish Apexi safc fuel computer $250 second hand + tune $150 Maybe an MBC if the r32 actuator doesn't hold the desired boost $35 Should see 200kW with this combination.

The standard rb25 turbo is the best bang for the bucks. Most people see the ceramic wheel as a disadvantage, but it's really not that bad. since the rb20 does not deliver flow that the rb25 does you can run more psi safely and still have the spooling time advantage over a steel wheeled high flow. Aiming for average power rather peak power is the best thing for a street car. Edit: hi-flows often require line modication and actuator rod modification. besides that the rb20 rear housing is restrictively small.

Apexi AVC-R Silver + Stand, great condition $380 posted Up for sale is one Blue/Silver AVC-R Boost controller, I’ve had it on my r33 gts-t and it’ll include the hoses, clamps and T pieces needed for fitment. It also comes with extended wires to make it easier to install and a modified bracket off my car for the boost solenoid. Functions very well, holds 18psi day in, day out. Has all the useful features gear specific boost control, rpm based boost control, self learning mode, multiple displays and peak hold features. Item: Apexi AVC-R Blue/Silver Boost controller and Apexi Stand Age: Had it about a year Condition: Great condition, few very small scratches not noticeable (see pics) Price: $380 posted anywhere in Aus To Fit: Can fit any car, was on my r33 gts-t Location: Toowoomba, QLD Contact: PM or reply to this post Comments: Selling my car soon, parting off all the good stuff. (EOI) PFC possibly up for sale soon PM me for details/offers, suits r33 gts-t. ^^ Modified bracket suits standard position 33 gtst ^^Pressure sensor and filter

It would look strange, the r32 has a high bonnet line and the s15 is low and slim. nothing wrong with the r32 front end just get a gt-r front bar and clear indicator lenses.

I get a bit of bump steer but it feels totally different. I'm going to raise my suspension to the recommended settings and adjust the castor to see if this fixes the issue. Now if it would only stop raining

Cheers Gary, and happy new year for you too.

Anyone know what episode of top gear the r35 is on?

DIY pics.

Truck turbo+ inline 6 FTW.

SK, what was the recommended circlip groove for an r33 gtst with the Bilstein group buy suspension?

Damn they look good, Nissan got it so right. Original poster why would you ever want an m3 over the r35?

Could be an alignment issue, after all I did put them in myself. I'll have to read into it a bit more. Anyways, probably won't buy them now but these are the bushes I meant here They don't look too bad for the price.

Yep, bushes were the only things I changed at that time and thats when I noticed it. Think it's mainly due to all the rubbish roads around me, when I'm driving on decent roads it's fine. I didn't really elaborate well in my first post, it's not constantly vibrating it's more of a jolt when when I hit a rough piece of road etc.

Hey guys, Replaced my stuffed original castor bushes with whiteline items about 8 months ago hoping they'd be a nice replacement, instead they're very harsh and send vibrations through the steering wheel so I want just get it back to the standard feel. Does anyone know where to get standard rubber bushes? I think I saw a trader or eBay was selling them at some stage but can't seem to find them now. Cheers.

Only the owner of an r31 skyline could think it looks better than an r33 GT-R.