chowetime

cheers for that info - so with all that you have said I should not be put off buying a car because it has had the engine rebuilt... I suppose it is best to ask the right questions and see the relevent paper work in regards to the rebuild... Also with a rebuild costing so much (even $6k + ) why not just drop another engine in there instead of a rebuild... or is the cost involved in a new/secondhand engine and availability similar cost kindest regards

I am again on the search for another car... but have noticed in a large amount of for sales that people have rebuilt the engines in there cars and most are opting for forged/strengthened internals... now from what little I know about forged internals they do have a few down sides to them and was hoping that people can help with providing more accurate info on how these affect a Skyline R33 Cold start - is it difficult to get them to turn over first thing, example do they have a tendency to stall before being able to hold a steady idle? Are they noisier on idle? When the car has warmed up do they idle slightly higher than a factory car? What is the lead cause for having to get an engine rebuild (I did do a search and it showed that most seemed to have problems with the pistons and rings...) what causes this to break down at such low klms 100kklms? And if an engine needs a rebuild at 100kklm will this need to be done every 100kklm there after and lastly - what sort of dollars are we looking at for a engine rebuild ? thanks in advance for any help that can be given.

SCAR33Y R33LCAR Thing is personal plates you want them to last your lifetime of driving so they will have to mean something about you more than just the car type you own today - especially if it is from the parents to you as a gift.

Yes you need a special vinyl spray paint and you absolutely must have all waxes out of the original vinyl other wise the first warm day it will lift off.. also becareful with white as it can reflect alot of extra glare

Best products I have ever used and will continue using is the Mothers Clay bar, Mothers Scratch/Paint sealer and Mothers Canubra wax - I must admit the other half gave me the Mothers wax system with a orbital polisher and the key to this is that it distributes the wax evenly over the car so you use much less product and much less effort is required to apply and remove takes me about 2 hours to wash and 3 stage wax my car total cost for the polishing kit including the orbital polisher $150... money well spent

there is still a few things that can be done and it will cost but it is usually worth it... a hi flow cat is always good much less restrictions how much extra hp is unceratin but anything that creates less restriction has to be good a larger T.B and while there get the intake mani port and polished - again these will only give you maybe 10- 15hp but will make the car more throttle responsive then look at what N/A cams are available and tuning a greddy e manage is a very cheap unit to buy these days and they work very well also look at your suspenssion does not give hp but helps make car faster on launches

You know what I bought a Turboed R33 and it was a very nice car to drive and I wish sometimes that I still had it, but after having driven N/A cars for the past 20 years I wish now that I had gone for a nice straight non turboed R33 and just done some of the basic mods like bigger exhaust cams T/B and intake, because every car that I have performed these mods to I have always gotten a very nice driveable car that is cheap on fuel and very easy to drive and very forgiving if you do something stupid - turbo cars are not so forgiving if you do something stupid or even not so stupid BTW I think you could do far worse than a N/A R33 - great choice

I have heard that there are problems with the GReddy Ultimate... and that GReddy had prematurely released it before fixing some of those problems.... just check with AJ at speedworks before puttingit in he should be able to confirm this or not as I know he does tuning for them as well... the GReddy Blue is still supposed to be the best one out there but I am sure I read somewhere that there was a gold one as well not 100% sure on the differences between them thou...

lol.... sorry I did not know that they were closing it down... thats bloody typical.... as far as reading newspapers no sorry I don't newspapers are so full of bad news and crap the only thing that I read is the cars for sale adds in the sunday times and autotrader but I guess you can't call that a newspaper. Surely they don't hold concerts at the Perth convention centre... that place is so badly designed plus you can't have smoke machines without setting of smake alarms...

I can't understand why they don't have it at the Dome in Burswood I am sure they had it there several years ago... but with all the stuff ups that were at the Perth Convention Centre I am not surprised and somewhat pleased that they are not having it there... the Centre management changed the rules and enforced so many changes on the day that I think Lloyd was probably unfairly targeted as to being at fault... I am sure that there must be more venues in Perth that could cater for 150+ cars and large crowd numbers maybe the answer for the organisers is to go back to the begining and keep it a bit more simpler like make it a 1 day event instead...

Just curious will the seats for the series 1 swap over directly to the series 2.... or is it a different fit

when building your new CAI keep this in mind for every bend that the tubing has to get to the T/B subtract 7% of the power... this is how much the bends slow down the volume of air.... a simple way of testing this out is watching the way water moves through reticulation systems (half cut versions) but if you must have it coming from behind the front bar have a section just before the T/B that has a larger diameter than the rest by about 20% this will allow for the loses... hope this makes sense Also look for a bigger T/B and a port matched intake for better flow Try chasing up some better cams this will give better top end and then of course a really good well made mandrel bent 21/4" tuned length extractors and management to even out the air- fuel ratios

If it is good enogh for brakes then it should be good for covers... i picked up a spare set of covers and going for the rice look - chrome ) I had ultra chrome in ossie park do my previous car and the chrome after 2 years and 100kklm later did not yellow or go dull in perfect condition they quoted me $192 per cover if that is of any help to anyone

what ECU are you using to run the MIVEC

I am checking out a few things for a friend and came across a car yard in Perth Auto Japan - my question is has anyone bought cars from them and what sort of quality are they the main reason for asking is that there prices are quiet good and I am a firm believer you get what you pay for.... When I compared there prices to say John Hughes there seems to be a big difference in cost

On the build plate it says 1994 but yet on the rego papers it claims 1995 ? still unsure as to the reasoning why this is my only guess is that it was made in 1994 but yet it was the 1995 model .... Mine does have the nicer front bar and fog lights (just have to work out how to turn the foggers on) and the drivers air bag, the antenna up and down button ect but thanks for that it was just a curiosity thing... had done a quick search but just wanted to know if it was like a limited edition ?

I have noticed that there are not many of these 1.5 series R33's why is that is it because they were simply a car that was manufacatured for a very very brief time or is there something else that I have over looked as to why there is not many available

looks very nice I do like the mable effect on the dash I am doing a harlequin type dash blue/purple/green and have blue saude gear and E brake covers and that is about it at the moment... but well done the car is coming along nicely what are your plans for retrimming the interior or leaving it stock

if you are the first Australian owner then there is a host of things that you can do to make it go quicker and more econmical extractors - mandrel bent - big flow cat- bigger t/body port and polish match inlets a rising fuel pressure regulator and some sort of engine management and maybe if you are really keen find yourself some cam gears and advance the timing a little this should see you add extra h.p and more importantly more torque in the low to mid range

I am sure I read somewhere that there were certain things that the PFC did not do or was not designed to do but it also depended on which version of PFC that you got... I am really sorry I can't be more specific than that due to the amount of stuff that I had read about the PFC... all that I can remember is that there was something to do with the HICAS or LSD... The ignition and injector cables that are required for the GReddy will cost an extra $150 - $200 on top of the original $600 for the unit and as far as the tuning software and cables it is better to use a place that is experienced with the GReddy as they can be a bit tricky for most to use

another option if you are really keen to make the car a little faster is to use a nitros cooler injection into the intake... Any form of cooling via injection from water or gas the result is going to be very minor unless you do something to help out the actual engine bay temps by more heat vents thermal bandages or HPC coatings on manifold and intake pipe but best CAI setup would be to have as much outside car air being pushed into the shortest intake pipe in the most direct route

I hear what you are saying about the two but they are both different types of after market comps I had the Greddy E Manage in my previous car which is totally different from the Skyline.... after the people were able to wire the GReddy and then get it working correctly it worked great we were able to get the car to drive very reliably and very economically whilst still being able to exract every bit of h.p available... I think the hardest thing for most people is to be able to find someone (tuning house) that has set up a GReddy into a Skyline previously otherwise it could cost you more money in setup time. My car still retained the factory ecu as it is only a piggy back but it also has the ability of being like your home p.c were you can upgrade programs and components like adding the Pro-Fec... the people that did my car also used the GReddy for there twin turbo magna and this car drives so nice almost like a factory car just with a bit more power. From what I can understand from the PFC is that it is a plug and play which is good and that you will lose the 180klm speed limiter which also sounds good if you are into track racing, it will also give you a good tune and economy, but you will also lose some of the nicer things that the factory unit provides like the HICAS and I think a few other things... but this is a full replacement ECU with a few limitations. I think I will end up getting a GReddy for my R33 due to how impressed I was with it in the Lancer and how much range we had with the tuning of it in RPM points... good luck with your choice it is not always an easy one

I know of a really good one down here in Bunbury ( not that that was what you want to hear) he is going to be re-trimming my car in the next couple of months he did the Lancer in 3 days and is very reasonable in price and the workmanship is great... if you don't have any luck call me and I will give you his number

well this is what I would do it may seem like over kill but that is me after you have degreased it and cleaned everything use a primer putty and spray the bay with this it will fill in any small chips and scratches then give it a light sand this you will probably will have to do by hand when you are happy with the surface after having given it another clean with the presol then you you will be ready to use the black 2 pak if not glossing then get some 1600grit paper and give it a very gentle rub over to remove any dust particles that may of contaminated the surface go careful here it won't damage the surface if you are using a swirl motion then get a good cut polish to give the car a nice finish but it is recommended not to do this for a couple of days even weeks to do this so that the paint is totally dry and has set

I personally would deffinately be using a couple of clear coats as that will give the black paint some depth in colour and will be so much easir to keep looking nice as the black can look quite flat dull and boring and could look like you have only done half the job, if you are doing engine parts in chrome or adding some extra bling then the glossy black will just make it look so special... but hey thats me I love shiney things Just remember to do before and after shots