chowetime

I am sure he will get over it... he is also suggesting the Haltech E6k as a good choice... actually you should check out the thread I created there the other week it has had more viewings and hits than any other topic... very funny really

I was hoping that someone can help me out also (have embarrassing dial up in the country which is very slow) ECR33-051375 GGKBRTR33VDA-U--- I know what the bulk of the model numbers are but not sure on the last few digits are -U--- my rego papers say it is a 1995 my Green plate say 11/1994 and I just need to know if the car is series 1 or series 1.5 greatly appricaited

you have to be so very careful with who you get to do the blasting as if they use a grit that is too harsh you will wish that you had nevr done it... it will not cost, much over here it would cost you no more than $100 but again go to smeone who can do a good job your local spraypainter should be able to recommend someone

the PFC is starting to look a winner so far as it will remove the 180klm speed limit, give better tuning/economy and can be tuned here local... now all I have to do is try and work out which model R33 it is that I have if it is a series 1, 1.5, it is deffinately not the 2... which brings me to another interesting item on the rego papers the car says it is a 1995 model but on the plates inside the engine bay it says 11/94 but I think the bodyshape is very much like the S2 ? I think I saw somewhere on the site were you can punch in model numbers and up will come details from the factory as to what your car is will try and find that to get more accurate details

Thank you very much... this club is great for getting really good info out of... makes my choices easier for what mods to get - thank you

thank you for answering the mystery question... heres another for you well educated young people, I am guessing that this is operated or commanded via the car ecu so if I changed over to a Power FC will the HICAS still work on the car ?

I am in the same situation the head lights come on but don't have a indicator/headlight/fog light stalk like it should only has the indicators and headlights in the stalk... were can i get a stalk that has all 3 function from as I would really like to have these lights to work

well I had a try at pulling my interior apart on saturday and was surprised at how easy it all was and have finally decided on the colour looking at the PPG type paint that changes colour looking at red/blue/purple.... doing the gear boot and E brake in a blue micro sauede which will be followed through the rest of the interior and the seats will be grey and blue... just need to work out how to remove the trim around the power window switch from the main part of the door handles and also the trim just under that were the door pockets are any tips here

I am very new to the world of boost so please excuss me for my mistakes... i was under the impression that if all the exhaust outlets on the manifold were the same length it would equal to a better low end of torque response ( less turbo lag) due to equal flow distances and pressure....

In the boot of the car were the battery is I have found a small square silver box it is not very big about 150mmx150mm x75mm any ideas as to what this may be it is also bolted to the underside of the parcel shelf (or there abouts) and has a huge bunch of wires coming from it thanks in advance

my understanding of turbo cams and N/A cams is that stock N/A cams are more aggressive than a stock turbo cam... if this is correct has anyone changed there turbo cams over to a N/A cam and did you use adjustable cam gears and what was the result of doing this.

Looking for rocker covers for R33

P.M sent in regards to dash surround

Multinovas use a 35mm lens so they are only accurate up to 40mt and they will zap you for 4klm+ over the limit, if you see one jump on the brakes no matter what as this will give an inaccurate reading of speed, I am also guessing that you all know that if you are driving side by side with another car and doing over the limit even if the camera goes off the chances of you getting a ticket is limited due to being unable to determine which car set off the trigger and the angle the cars were at, I am also guessing that you know that it is your right to see the cameras speed reading when the officer is about to give you a ticket as they have to show you the reading before issuing a ticket but with this you can also bring unwanted attention to your car

Have previously used a GReddy E manage and was very good it helped out in increasing the Lancer power by 70% in N/A form but not sure if the GReddy and profec unit will be able to get rid of the speed limiter on the car were as the Power FC will be able to get that sorted What I meant was with the piggy back style comps is that you have to match them up as you want them to work faster or at least the same speed as the factory unit as far as recieving air intake signals and processing them to the ignition/injection... if the factory unit is faster than the piggy back then processing delays means that you won't be getting the possible result .... but hey what would I know that is just my thoughts on after market comps

The skyline is a late 1994 I thought about the EMS... but I think it is like a full on computor to replace the stock one which I am hesitant about at the moment also I am not sure as to specifics with the computors hardware eg. if the car stock ecu is a 16bit processor and a EMS is only a 8bit then there is no huge advantage... I have been down that track before with computors.. I think I need to be honest with myself as to how much h.p I am really wanting and how much I am prepared to pay for it ( and not just in $$).... I will probably end up just getting a air/fuel, but hey who knows they say a female is allowed to change her mind so I think I will just keep on reading and see what I like, the other thing I have to be mindfull of is having someone local that can tune the things as I have not got a clue... George spoke to me about the dump that you are referring to and it sounds interesting just have to get rid of the crappy cassette player that is in the car at the moment so money will be spent there first then in about a months time will start modding the motor

Took the new car to the local dyno workshop and had it tested for hp -psi- and fuel ratios and considering the car is near stock for engine mods I was most impressed it only has a HKs exhaust from the cat back and a panel filter so the average hp was 204hp atw and the air fuel rating was about .7 which is fairly rich and the car was running on stock psi of 7psi of boost, overal I am very pleased with the result... Next step I would be guessing is to try and locate a HKs dump pipe from the turbo and a big flow cat convertor (having problems trying to locate the dump any ideas) and then some sort of air fuel controller most here seem to use the Apexi range bu I have since found out that there are 2 types to get not sure as to which one will be best suited for me I am only wanting to avhieve about 250hp also looking at fmic

yeah I can go with the extra bit of rice for my car ) but my turn/light does not have this extra bit on it either... my guess is that at comlpiancing they swapped over the dial and left it un-connected to get it passed... looks like a call to a friendly auto sparkie and see if he can sort something out

Well the R33 that I have just picked up is brilliant.... it has been so well looked after and very well maintained.... I have driven many different types of cars and must say that this car is the most enjoyable car that I have ever driven. Anyway as I was going over the car and working out what is what with the car I came across the fog lights and started looking for a switch to turn them on... they do still have the wires coming out of them but could not locate a switch... any ideas guys as to were the wires will lead to so I can put a switch in there to operate them

I did the dash of my lancer and it came out very good so good in fact that people commented on that they did not know that it was a factory option... when painting plastic parts you must give everything a really good clean with a scrub/toothbrush then use a very fine sand paper to just rough up surface so that Plastic Primer will stick but before priming use some Prepsol to wash it down to remove any grease -wax dirt etc.. then several light coats of colour (acrylic) you can go to to an automotive paint supply place and they can custom make colours for you in an areosol can then after the paint has set then several light coats of clear after it has dried (24hr) use a mild cut and polish and apply to surface this will help to remove any minor dust and give the clear a high polished finish my interior parts lasted 3 years with no scratches or chips make sure you paint when it is warm and no dampness is in the air and place can of spray paint into bucket of hot water this will ensure when you spray the paint it will be thin coats and will not splatter onto surface

Sorry I meant 250rwHP not kw as I am not after massive killer power just something that will be more fun I picked he car up yesterday and with it came a workshop manual it is about 500 pages worth... Anyway went to Perth yesterday and picked up the car and I am so impressed with the way the car looks and has been very well maintained from previous owner and is a credit to him - one thing I did notice was the fuel consumption so far I have done 200klm and used half a tank is this normal consumption did not hit boost very often and was cruising home from perth to bunbury at legal speed limits ...

as of tommorrow will have a white one - which will get a blue pearl over job

hey sunshine yeah I have jumped the fence in a big way... as there is no comparison between what I had and what I am getting. The car that I am getting appears to of been well maintained so I think I will be reasonably safe there but I hear what you are saying about looking before leaping that why I am asking all the silly questions now before I make a stupid mistake... I am having a job and a half trying to find a Gregories type manual that does not cost nearly $200.... so a lot of my questions are hit and miss like the above... I am hoping to get the car onto a dyno over the weekend or early next week just to see what is going on with the car and were to take it from there my first lot of mods will be fairly simple ones like dump pipe and hi flow cat then we will look at FMIC and then by the looks of it the injectors, fuel pump and Apexi... I think that should be enough to give me some fun only looking at wanting about 250kw at the wheels I think this is achievable... I just don't want to loss driveability and have something that is going to be reliable on an veryday basis

I have seen quite a few people adding fuel pumps to their cars, this is because the stock one is not pumping the volume required, is it possible that I can that another way to go as an alternative is, if I just change over the injectors to something slightly larger and add a rising fuel pressure regulator to help with more fuel or would the FPR because of it's nature to just be pushing the fuel in under pressure and not volume would the car still be prone to leaning out even with larger injectors.... sorry turbo motors and Nissan is still very alien to me... will start to learn more soon with more reading also heard someone say that the skyline ecu can be re-mapped is this true or false

how much can you safely change on a R33 before having to use a air/fuel management system like the GReddy E manage or SAFC and how much can you increase the boost to before it becomes unsafe as well sorry if this topic has been covered more times than you have had hot dinners but from my searches it is still a little hazey to get straight answers