Ceffy_SA

Yea it did come with a RB20DE in Japan, factory manual though, was just wondering why mine was saying RB20D in Fast software I looked up NASHI in the Japanese language convertor and it aparently means "without" or a "Japanese Pear"

Thanks for the info, one last question though, what does "NASHI" stand for and my engine is reporting as a RB20D, is this correct? Thanks again

Hey would you be able to get the details for my Chassis Number? Its A31-007166 Thanks

Crystal Car Care 664 Marion Rd Park Holme SA 5043 ph: (08) 8276 9413 Thats the details for Muges's workshop

Items: R32 Crank angle sensor Contact Details: PM me Price and price conditions: Not worried, let me know your price Thanks Lyndon (Ceffy)

Hmm thats interesting, mine went in pretty much fine, maybe its not a skyline one after all, i didnt seem to have any trouble fitting the link pins in at all, sway bar has been removed now due to the engine comming out ill have to take some pics when i get the car back on the road again.

^^^ Thats some ingenuity right there

Hey looks really clean, i like the wheels too they suit the car in my opinion

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I have GTR rear sway bar and Whiteline Adj 27mm front sway bar for a R32 GTS-T, great mod for the A31, driving the car through the hills was alot more fun than with the stock sway bars

Just though i would share my experiences, ive been pulled over at random and defected in my Cefiro, wasnt doing anything out of the ordinary yet i received a defect. However i used to own a old shit box 1985 colt the had been smashed in the front had no exhaust what so ever yet i would be pulled into a RBT/defect station and they would just let me go. I also own a daily driver 1985 magna that i sprayed gloss black to cover the rust and crappy paint, has no roof lining, dents everywhere from me jumping on it and blows alot of smoke if its low on its "sigma syrup" (read: 3lt of Moreys oil honey and 1lt of 40-70 oil) yet police turn a blind eye, im my mind the police seem very biased as to what they defect, but thats just my opinion.

Looks good, love the R33 4 doors, nice work

Haha, thats what i asked but i think another ceffy driver called dibbs on it mere moments after the crash lol

^^ Ill send him a message for you, chances are probably not as this happened about a year ago now

engine: Cefiro RB20DET, i had done over 50000kms with that engine and was still going until i stuffed it type of failure: Four Valves slightly bent due to piston contact, turned it into a 4 cylinder RB20 factors involved: Attempted to install a Adj exhaust cam gear, lined up the top end but didnt double check the crank. Crank must have slipped on the belt at some stage which put the timing way out. No valve markings on tops of the pistons so it was only a light tap state of tune: Was probably making around the 200RWKW mark with a Rx7 turbo suspension/tyres: JIC Coilovers all round and cheapy 17 inch tyres oil and servicing: every 5000km's with Motul 300V 10-40w genral comments: Currently rebuilding the RB20 to original specs using all brand new Nissan gear, (New Nissan Rings, bearings, gasket set, oil pump, water pump and timing belt) pulled engine down to find that number 5 rod bearing was worn, the bores had some light scorring marks and oil rings had collapsed, also oil pump was showing signs of wear around the main drive and probably wouldn't have lasted much longer.

I have one on my Rb20 cefiro engine, its a HT18S off a S4 Rx7 which has been rebuily by ATS at some point. The turbo also has a Rb20 exhaust housing that has been modified to fit onto the turbo still keeping the original steel turbine though. It has made 160RWKW on 10psi and full boost (18psi) comes in around 3000-3200rpm, turbo spool up isnt the best though. My car has been off the road for some time so i haven't been able to dyno it at 18psi, not a bad turbo though, i only paid $500 for mine.

Hmm the petrol tank out of that car is now residing in my car, i know the person who owned that Cefiro, was one very hard hit

Love the ceffy, good work

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Worth getting new rod bolts and head bolts? Have been thinking about it, might as well do it properly the first time around Edit: Just rang Nissan, Rod bolts are only $6.85 each, rod nuts are $1.50 each and head bolts are $4.30 each so all up it comes to $160.4 for new rod bolts/nuts and head bolts so i think ill be getting new ones. Just out of interest how can they charge over $2400 for a new set of hydraulic lifters (24), sheesh!

Cool, thanks for the help. one more question i have is should i go for a oil pump collar for my new oil pump or just let it drive off the usual spot on the crank? Its not really a highly tuned engine, only had around the 200rwkw mark before witha Rx7 hybrid turbo on in, was running quite rich too, i will be turning my boost controller off for the run in which means it will be running 5psi of fury haha. Ill be sure to take photos of the build http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Ceffy_SA/DSC00759.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Ceffy_SA/DSC00777.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Ceffy_SA/DSC00781.jpg Flintstones power^^

Thanks for information, was tempted just to take it to a engine builder and have them assemble the engine for me but i would like to see how everything is done. Graham from Boss racing Differentials is helping me put it together as he used to build all of his old drag V8 engines a while back (i know a old school V8 is totally different to a RB20 lol) Hmm i was thinking of taking the car into the hills but i would be tempted to de-accelerate in gears which i know is not really good for the run in period. Might do what you did Cubes and just take it down the espy from Moana to Aldinga a couple of times, aparently the first 50km of run in are the most important. Also did you use a synthetic oil for run in? I always used use Motul 300V 10-40w before, but i have heard its a good idea to use mineral oil for the first 1000km's or so of run in then start using the synthetic stuff later on

Hey there, Recently the RB20det in my cefiro blew up,due to error on my behalf (well not really blew up but some vavles made slight contact with 1 and 5 pistons) So i have undertaken a full rebuild on the engine which included, pulling the block apart, sourcing new R32 head which has been acid dipped, shaved slightly, new guides, new valve stem seals, "machined" vavles and pressure tested. The original block has been decked, hot tanked, (acid dipped) honed and pressure tested (as well as pistons and rods). Everything that came out of the engine e.g. crank and pistons and rods turned out to be fine. I have sourced standard rod and mains bearings through nissan as well as new rings, oil pump, water pump, timing belt and complete gaskit set. This weekend i am looking to re-assemble the egine starting with the bottom end with alot of help from some friends who know alot more than me about this kind of work. My questions are, does anyone out there have the correct torque levels for rod bolts, crank, oil pump ect ect? Also when it come time for running the engine in are there any tips or rules as to what needs to be done, i have done a bit of research in that area but usually had mixed messages about the running in period. Also is there anything i should be doing whilst the engine is totally apart, for example adding oil restrictors to the block for head oil feed? I was thinking of taking photos of the entire build, does anyone else think that would be a good idea, or be interested? Thanks

Im not sure really, been told its a Autech front bar, has only one side vent, came with the car from Japan

I have some on my car from viva garage, cost $300 hoewever they did not fit too well and had to be custom fitted, currently selling them too, PM if interested lol. (My car is the white Cefiro)