Ceffy_SA

Umm, from memory i run 2.5- on the front with .08 of toe out and +8 castor on the front too, the settings work for me, never had the rear wheel algned

Yea i would reccomend getting a wheel alignment, i changed my JIC coilovers to 2.5- degrees by looking at the markings on the camber tops but then i went for a wheel alignment and found that one side of the car was only runnin 1.5- and the other was 3.0-. Its also handy as you can check how much castor and toe you are running too,

Im going on the weekend to my local paint mixing place, i "think" i know what the code is. If i cant figgure it out ill just get them to paint match. Let ya's know how i go and what the paint code ends up being

Thanks guys, i was sure it was one of those makings on the plate in the engine bay, just couldnt tell which one it was as part of it is written Japanese. Ill have a look when i get home and let you know how i go

Hey My car was recently in a bit of a accident so i needs to have a few parts sprayed in the Factory purple pearl White that A31 cefiros are sprayed in from factory. I need to have some paint mixed but i am unable to find out where the paint codes are located and what they are. My Ceff is factory White with the purple pearl in it. I have looked at the blue manufacturer plate in the engine bay but this was no help. No panel beaters here in SA seem to know what it is or want to help

Its interesting you say that replicate, i have a turbo A31, but still have the factory non turbo calipers, i have bought some r32 4 piston calipers and r33 nonturbo disks (4 stud) and i have tried fitting them. However it seems as if the brake lines are slightly too short, also the brake lines do not want to stay seated, even with two copper crush washers the banjo bolt comes loose and creates a leak. Im going to purchase some R32 turbo brake lines to be on the safe side as they have the proper tapered fitting at the end and shouldnt come loose.

Sorry, i would like to keep it, if i put a 180km/hr dash in my speedo would probably be out by a looong way (i think) Someonestole, is there any possibility that you could keep your Ceff, you've put the price down so much

Thanks Huddster, looks alot better than the old one IMO, helps airflow to the radiator too, and yea the pics were from the MGEC show, i was in the SHY display. One day ill get out there and drift the thing rather than put it in shows, one day... Hows your Ceff going?

Will be good to see how it goes now, hopefully you will have reduced turbo lag

I am with Just cars at the moment, i only have 3rd party though which costs me around $350 a year, car value is only at $6500 though. Full comp is $1000 a year, car is a 1988 Cefiro RB20DET and im 22. I was with Shannons for a while but for their really cheap full comp insurance i was only allowed to do 8000km's a year, which will never happen...

I have had to put my car through regency a few months ago in my A31 Ceff. I got defected for too low and atmo BOV. I actually got through first time even though my car was not quite spot on (illegal steering wheel, 1988 worn out suspension bushes and unsecured battery). Still the regency inspector let me off with a formal written warning. Strange as my car has a fibreglass body kit, i still had my 3 inch exaust (its quiet) and split dump pipe, Pod filter (secured) and FMIC. the inspector i had was quite young and really knew his stuff about imports, he even told me he is going to buy a turbo silvia or AE86 himself He aslo informed me that he would personally pass cars with coil over suspension if they were at STD ride height, in good condition and were a good brand, TIEN, JIC, HKS, Koni ect.

Hey guys, I would be interested in coming along, Cheers

Hmm, thats what i was thinking, still i though there would be quite a few out there with the 280km dash. Hmm, very weird. Someonestolec, you still havent sold your car

Mine was never an auto, its a factory 5 spd manual with a RB20DE (says it on the blue plate in the engine bay), i have heard on the grape vine that only 5% of A31 Ceff's came with the Manual box from Factory (probably a load of BS though)

Your car looks awesome nizmo_freek, tough as! Here's some pics of mine

Yea works good, had the car around a year and a half now, got it with 51000km on the clock so it had definatley been wound back before it came to AUS 2 years ago. I just though it might interest some fellow Ceff owners out there, i have seen quite a few Ceff's over here in SA and everyone has had the 180km/hr dash. Hits speed cut at 190km/hr accroding to my dash

Hello out there in 4 door land. I have a 1988 A31 ceff, however mine has a 280Km/Hr dash in it. Has anyone ever seen one of these before in a Cefiro in place of the usual 180Km/Hr dash. Im just interested as mine seems to be the only one with this kind of dash in it. Could it of been taken from another car? I have always though that all the A31's were speed limited to 180km/hr from factory. Mine is a RB20DET (was a RB20DE from fac) and is a factory manual too. If anyone has any info on this it would be great, im thinking its just an option you could get from when you bought a Cefiro from the show room. Here is a pic of the dash.

Hmmm, the turbo looks a little like my one i have waiting to go on my RB20. Reading your restults of your new turbo have got me worried about my new one, i really want to avoid too much lag as my car is a daily driver. Here are some pics of my "hybrid" turbo, its a HT18 front off a RX7 series 4/5 with a rb20 rear housing on the back and the RX7 steel wheel that has been machined into the rear housing. Most people here would agree my turbo would probably have the same response as yours catkicker. Ill might sell mine now, anyone want a fresh'ly rebuilt turbo i couldnt handle full boost by 5000rpm

haha yea thats true, i also woudnt get the uber cool extra loud turbo flutter without a metal induction pipe. I think i will try finding some wire to put in there as a fix. I have also heard about people making up some bent steel piping and putting it inside the std rubber pipe.

Would someone be able to tell me what the consequences of the rubber induction hose "sucking" closed e.g. boost drop/power drop? Also i have been told that there should a metal winding through the induction hose too, my RB20 dosent have one so it is VERY easy to squeeze and collapse the pipe. Would it be worthwhile finding a RB20 one that has that bit in there, or just going a full metal induction pipe?

Ill leave it up to you guys to figgure this one out

No, its just a bit too small for me, i'd be keen to sell it, ive wore it like 5 times since ive had it Send me a PM if your keen and im sure we can work something out

I bought that shirt a few months ago, i didnt realise it only came in Medium when i bought it though Just bought this model from e-bay for $70 AUS http://cgi.ebay.com/AOSHIMA-1-24-Nissan-A3...1QQcmdZViewItem

Thats an interesting problem you have. I have had the same sort of problem with my RB20DET A31 Ceff, as soon as i installed a large'ish intercooler i found that when thrashing the car through the hills the water temp would rise quite a bit and get close to boiling point. Turned out that it was my std clutch fan that was not engaging anymore due to it being worn out, i replace that which solved all my troubles. Still the std water temp gauge in my experience is hardly accurate, i just purchased a Auto Meter water temp gauge, and basically when the std gauge hits half way the autometer gauge is reading around 72-75 Degrees.

Wow thats an awesome A/F ratio, dosent budge from a flat 12.0:1 the through the whole rev range. I had my car recently re-tuned by Dr Drift, it really did make alot of diffrence and i get to keep my STD ECU too Before and after on my RB20 Ceff http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Ceffy_SA/Scan10001.jpg