rainster

i think you can pull the glass part out of the holder and just replace the bulb and not the holder they are called wedge bulbs and you can get them from most garages or auto sparky give it a go,also you can pull the rubber boot of the bulb and put it on the next one as well for the colour,hope it helps?

i have a problem where my car drops a cylinder intermittently it brings up engine check light .i have checked error code which is 21,and found it to be no cosecutive ignition signal while engine is running i presume this would be coil pack as my transistors are built into each and every one of my coil packs unlike earlier skylines where the had a transistor module mounted at back of engine on top of the plastic cover, but it only has happened three times and it doesnt do it long enough for me to disconnect each coil to pin point the bad coil,my biggest problem is the cost of the coils i have being qouted aprox. $2-300 a coil due to the fact that the transistor is built int the coil also depends on which coil type i have as nissan list a few part no.s does anyone no which coil part no is mine.my skyline is r34 GT with a rb20de engine or if any one no of a cheaper option in new zealand as prices for these coils are all over show the other thing i am wondering is it possibly because i have reset the computer and it always does it secound drive after reseting the computer is this possibly a phenomenen that happen with computer relearn or just a coincedence.can anyone answer this.

i have being told by a few exhaust shops that you can have two identical models of car fit the same identical exhaust and they could sound totally different,i assume that vairables in engine build,machineing etc could be the cause of that.as for anyone that fits a 3'' system on a n/a car is wasteing alot of money,i no it looks good and at idle sounds good but the power loss at low to mid range is quite bad also take into consideration of fuel waste due to haveing to push down further on the accelerator to make up for power loss, trust me i have being there and tried that.best size pipe i believe is 2 1/2 for rb25 and for rb20 is 2 1/4 for low drone note at 50khm,i no some people like the car loud it draws attention but here in nz it draws the attention eg.police.these skylines are very hard cars to get a good sounding system and good power range without a bit loss in either of these factors its alot of trial error until you build up a system,even now im considering adding another resonator with expansion chamber i have noticed a bit of a loss power low down on hills

i think 3'' a bit extreme.your dead right it would be very load it would sound like youre exhaust fell off.also you would loose a heap of power down low,only turbos modified could run that size and sound good,the turbo helps push the exhaust gas out,wear as n/a need a certain amount back pressure and smaller pipe size create scavenging to draw exhaust gas out and give good low down throttle responce .

hope this helps a few people out there in regards to nice sounding legal and powerful exhaust system .after alot of trial error with mufflers and resonator i have assembled a nice sounding exhaust it comprises of 2 1/4 pipe one 18'' expansion chamber coby muffler fitted where the cat was,as for u guys in oz fitt a shorter resonator 16'' expansion chamber type next in line with cat . run straight pipe 2 1/4 all the way up to the rear of car then either a large body straight through twin tip 2.5'' muffler or a 16'' straight through a 2.5'' core come out at 4'' with a provision for silencer use the silencer, give you enough backpressure to help with scavenge of exhaust gasses and prevents burnt exhaust valves still sound deep at idle and crisp sounding at mid to high revs also run coby extractors make a huge difference slightly in low rev and very noticable in mid to high revs. only adjustment had to do was idle air bleed scew adjustment to give smooth idle due to better flowing exhaust i have found it to have more torque and quicker acceleration .i havent dyno to show figures but works well for me and im very fussy when comes to making cars go well and sound well .also if u use a straight through type muffler comeing out 4 '' make sure u use silencer other wise it is extremely loud

yep my skyline is an r34,the chassis is hr34.its was built the end of 1998 jap import it is the first of r34 even my transmission is a bog standard 4 speed auto unlike the later 1999 onwards r34 gt which had triptronic shift . i have noticed in ozzy you mainly have rb25de neo and rb20det neo motors in your r34.i got mine for about 11,000 grand and i have to admit i have only seen about 3 in my area,see heaps of r33 and r32 not to many r31 now .cheers for the help with muffler positioning

i have an r34 with rb20de i have decat'ed and fitted 21/4 resonator replaced pipework with 21/4 tubeing running a 60 series flowmaster muffler in replacement of the factory resinator before the diff and on the rear stainless straight through exiting out 2 up turn tube rps muffler does any one feel the positioning of the of my mufflers could be performance restricting as i noticed positioning of the restrictive factory muffler was on the rear.where as my restictive muffler is in the middle and the rear muffler is a glamerised exhaust tip.i no you need a certain amount of resriction for n/a motors but im wondering if i have positioned my restrictive muffler to close far down the exhaust stream?

i have had both types of motors,and i feel that the neo motor is a very revvy motor but at low revs very mellow,when you hit about 2800 revs you feel like you hit powerband like a twostroke motor bike where as torque range on a earlier desighn is pretty much same torque curve all the way through as i found when compareing dyno print outs of both types of engines.also the neo has aprox. 10% more kw then earlier desighn from factory it is the heads,cams,and engine management that make it more powerful and fuel efficient the engine blocks,piston are the same a few small changes but not much mainly in the crank.

cheers for the advice guys just got new tyres and rims,took down the motorway got up to 100khm and more of course and no more shimmy all is good and car looks hot now with the mags.

tried to down load info but wont do it 666dan is it a bad link or just takes for ever to down load as i did it once and my computer frittered out and crashed

my trans which is a 3 speed with o/drive snow/auto/power switch.Its playing up i think.what happen is when i slow down to about 20khm and go to accelerate it does not chop down a gear and doent really acelerate but if you hold it at a constant throttle position and after a while it does chop down and go, its like about a 5 secound delay and it puts sh!ts up me when you slow down and accelerate passing through an intersection when cars are comeing at you.It only does now and then but enough to irritate me,ive had trans serviced and still no better im wondering if its a t.p.s/auto sensor playing up,does any one no how to test or wireng diagram for R34 ,or no how to fixs this problem.

hey sydneykid are you meaning dynamic and static balance? ill soon no if its tyre or rims as im getting some new mag and trye's this saterday im getting 17x8 rims and getting 235/45/17 federals tyers it will look good and hopefully shimmy gone

they are about half worn but dont want to replace them as yet as i want to get 18" rims with 235 on rear and 225 on front cost about $2000 to do so saveing up at moment but hate the shimmy as it affects handling and lane changing at 100 khm .the other thing im suspect is the offset of the rims ive got but dont quite no how to measure this to find out does any body no how to do this.

cheers guys here in new zealand we dont quite have emission laws as yet but is comeing soon but its only dated for cars after the date that law takes effect so thought i had better do it now.

does any one no what you do with o2 sensor on a r34 if you replace existing manifold with extractors and removed cat and run a 21/4 exhaust with resonator and a 2.5 triple flow muffler do you refit it or unplug it or ground a particular wire. and also its a rb20de engine

anyone had this expereince with there skyline.i have had this steering shimmy through my steering wheel at 100-110khm.i have replaced caster rod bushes and also had one wheel allighnment and two wheel balances on front wheels also i have levered and check for play in balljoints etc also had a look at steer rack bushes i found a bit of movement in them so i brought some aftermarket bushes they are whiteline they looked the same except the original bushes had rubber moulded around steel band and whiteline bushes were straight out rubber the guy said that they are for r33 but same for r34,anyway i installed bushes and tested for movement found it to be the same is this movement normal to skyline it moves aproximately 3mm from left to right or are the bushes different from r33 to r34,the bushes that were orginally fitted on right side on rack is a two piece rubber coated steel bush on left side just rubber ring,by the way the shimmy still very much there. hope some one can answer my question

hey thanks guys i did what u said and sure enough it did the trick stoped the viabrating when you are in drive cause my idle speed was not set right had to higher idle and lean idle mixture,set idle speed to 650 rpm recheck timeing all apears to be correct now

cheers for that guys i will check it out hope it works as i prefer to service my own cars as i dont trust garages hear in nz as they are just to slap happy i see it all the time as i am a diesel mechanic the only problem is my car has warranty on it and i have to have it serviced by a nominated garage.I always check my car top to bottom after its had a service .pretty sad isnt it ,what happened to good tradesman these day.

does any one no how to check ignition timeing properly as i have found pick up wire for timeing light iductive pick up lead to go onto and have checked timeing mark and from what i see is that my timeing over advanced it is at least 20 digrees which is very high is it possible that with this model do i have to bridge my diagnostics plug or something as i think the computer is controling the timeing and i need to check acurate timeing i pretty certain timeing is ok as cam sensor shows no sighn of being moved and engine does not predetinate or any thing but very curiouse that with this model you need to use scan tool to put engine into tune mode to carry out the check.

hey just reading your post romeo if you are getting a code fault for signal to coil packs it sound like you possibly may have a broken wire in the harness that go to the coils it gets real hot in there and electrical wires perrish . the other thing is bad connection to coils or coil pack insulation is leaking spark to test this remove plastic cover get a piece of wire and connect one end to battery negative and strip other end to bear wire aprox 10mm back and run it around the coil insulation while engine running you will see a spark jump and it may drop a cylinder when spark tracs to wire if this happens its a bad coil replace it.Also do you not have nissan agent in aust. they should be your best bet as they will have factory san tool which will tell them alot more information unlike ob2 scan tools they are only a guide and very common to local mechanics hope this helps you as i dont think its your ecu unless you have shorted or something you havent had welding done on it with the battery connected this is a good ecu killer good luck

i have jacked the car up and check for play in the rack i dont think its that because with the engine off and wiggling the wheel no power steer the doesnt appear to be any excessive play or noise also my steering doesnt wander and there are no abnormal knocking noise when driveing over bumps in the road ,i think i will replace both caster bushes and see if that sorts it it will cost me $80.0 and i use my press at work to press them in i.i have my fingers crossed when test drive it hears hopeing.

hello people i have a question to ask i hope some one knows.i have a nissan skyline hr34 and i have being experienceing a shake through the steering wheel at about 100km.i have had 3 wheel alighnments and 2 wheel balance on all tyres i cant seem to get rid of the problem it irritates the hell out of me ,so i decided to check the suspension out i noticed that i have had 1 radial rod replaced but notthe other when looking at the bush there appears to be small cracks in the rubber but no grease coming out ,which i had same problem with an old skyline of mine which bothe bushes leaked grease.is it possible that all the grease has leaked out of this bush alreasdy or are the hr34 bushes dont have grease fill bushes anymore.if so is this bush possibly my problem as my rims and tyres have checked and have found to be ok also i have got locater rings installed for my rims.i have checked my top arm bushes ball joints etc .im hopeing some one else has had this experince and replaceing the bush has fixed it as my bush hasnt completly fallen apart to make me think that this is the problem and a bit reluctant to waste heaps of money to locate the problem,help somebody.