ADM

OK, Im now ready. Mark or Duncan, please PM the bank details to me. Thanks Fellas ADM

OK, Thanks Mark32, Ill let you know when I’m financial.

I’m interested, but can’t afford one for a few weeks. Will they still be available? ADM

While your at it, could you ask the program designer to add the other RS232 supported GTR sensors like air temp...? Cheers ADM

Brillant, Thanks Impakt!! ADM

Hi Impakt, Do you have a version of your logging software that will take into account the two AFM's and O2 sensors on the r32 GTR? By the way, the unit is still working well... Cheers ADM

Hi kc, Are the brake lines ADR badged?

Nice one, I haven’t checked for that and I am running a "little" bit more castor. I suppose the grease that I’m pumping into the nipples could be lubricating the metal to metal contact for a short period of time... Thanks for the lead SK ADM

Hi Syd. Both sides and randomly inside and out....Really annoying... Alignment is a very sedate 1.5 neg. What grease have you used to lube the Poly? ADM

Im using the Castrol LM(which is grey/silver) what grease did you use? ADM

I installed them Mr GTS4 and I greased them up good and proper, dagnamit. The fronts are the squealers I’m using rose jointing in the rear. I know that I will probably have to take it apart, these units have grease nipples on them and so I’m a bit annoyed that their functionality doesn’t work to the degree where it stops the squeak. I bought them for that reason (instead of the UAS bearing based units). Seems like it might be a design flaw, not good enough when spending the money with a trusted manufacturer. Any one used the UAS bearing up control arms on the R32? ADM

Hi Guys, I’ve recently placed the Whiteline adjustable camber kit in the upper control arms of my R32 GTR. The unit seems to be of a high quality and after using the supplied lubricant I had no issues for about two weeks. It then started to squeak and so I spoke to Whiteline who advised the correct product to use on the supplied grease nipples was Catrol LM grease. I can only achieve 2-3 days of silent use out of the unit before it starts to squeak. I’ve now regreased three times. I’ve loosened the bolts off so the grease can penetrate the bushes but that didn’t help. Has anyone found a long term fix to stop the little buggers from squealing? Cheers ADM

I sold a perfectly good GTiR that I had run in hill climbs and at the local raceway for 5 years with only one clutch failure (it was a stock clutch and probably the original so no surprise there) and not one gearbox issue. I bought a 95 R32 GTR and did similar mods. With 16psi and an exhaust the GTR was only a smidge quicker in a straight line and no quicker around the corners (more fun!! But not faster). Anyway, within the year the engine was up for a rebuild and the new clutch that had gone in 3 months earlier was also spent. This with the identical driving habits I had used with the GTiR...go figure... Anyway there is no beating the overall bang for bucks the GTiR with the awesome sr20DET can deliver. Throw a torsen LSD at the front diff and the effect is complete (power oversteer past the apex and a launch to die for) ADM

For the GTR the workshop manual gives normal operating ranges to be expected from all the sensors.

Fellas, I’ve only just been able to test Impakts consult display on my R32 GTR as the car has undergone an engine rebuild that took longer than expected. The unit is brilliant, displays all sensor information and even has a peak hold feature that I have found indispensable. I’ve also hooked it up to the laptop for data logging. To have the information live while driving without having to haul a laptop around is a godsend. Sorry for the late review Impakt it been unavoidable. The unit has paid for itself already, showing that I had a faulty left hand oxygen sensor. ADM

Fellas, I’ve only just been able to test Impakts consult display on my R32 GTR as the car has undergone an engine rebuild that took longer than expected. The unit is brilliant, displays all sensor information and even has a peak hold feature that I have found indispensable. I’ve also hooked it up to the laptop for data logging. To have the information live while driving without having to haul a laptop around is a godsend. Sorry for the late review Impakt it been unavoidable. The unit has paid for itself already, showing that I had a faulty left hand oxygen sensor. ADM

I have DMS coilovers in my R32 GTR and they have performed well so far. They have bump and rebound adjustment and it’s possible to select your preferred spring rate at purchase time. I had DMS in my GTiR before that and they too were particularly competent. http://www.dmshocks.com/ ADM

Right, and soon after our last conversation on this topic my trusty bearings did die as you suggested might happen. ADM

Hi, Are the rotors 330mm or 300mm?

SydneyKid, I didn’t think you were an advocate for bearings within the upper arm in street cars? ADM

Thanks SydneyKid for the technical insight (as usual). I’ve decided to stick with the original pump, remove the fins from the rear pump section, block that sections outlet and rebuild the remainder. It’s not as neat as I would have liked but it saves reinventing the wheel (or pulley in this case)

I used all R33 GTST parts SydneyKid. It would be possible to fix the offset but Im more concerned with the smaller pulley working the pump and fluid nice and hard during constant high rev conditions

Well, the R33 pump seems to be offset forward when bolted up to the block and the pully is smaller which isnt such a good thing when running at 8000rpm on track days. The pulleys can't be easily swapped, so its back to removing the fins in the back of the tandem pump and plugging the outlet.

Thanks Scooby, Im picking up the 33 pump and brakets today. The pump will be rebuilt next week and will be going back on when the engine rebuild is complete(2-4 weeks). Ill let you know how I get on with the conversion as I go along.

Does anyone know if the power steering pump from the R33 GTST will work with the R32 GTR rack? I no longer run the HICAS in the GTR and as I’m rebuilding my power steering pump I thought it might be an idea to remove the GTR's tandem pump and swap it with the R33's. It would be a lot neater now the HICAS is out and cheaper to rebuild too. I’m assuming there is no technical reason why this can’t be done?