grandmasterb

Spring purchased just chasing a coil pack. Cheers Ben

Spring purchased just chasing a coil pack. Cheers Ben

Looking good Dave, when will it be finished and back in action??? Ant is that the set up in the 31 or the 34??? Updates for me: ordered my new gaskets and spring for waste gate, replaced all fittings on my braided brake lines as i noticed a couple were leaking, finally finished the wiring tidy up behind the center console and dash ready to install my new SABER gauges and new ignition barrel. I have a cupboard full of parts ready to go so now just have to move the car to its new location so it can be finished off

There red top.

Genuine are not worth the money mate, id say look at getting a set of the JJR ones but not sure what stock they have after the weekend. Otherwise look in the sponsor section for Splitfires all around the $500 mark. I have some good condition ones that i will be getting rid of soon if you have no luck

There are with the 32 set up, will post pics later to show you what i mean

Might be with that set up for the silv but its not for a 32, i know for a fact cause we measured it up Not only that but with the under/under route you actually add additional bends into the equations as well. Hindering to performance??? Some say so but like i said above i've run the piping 3 ways on my 32's and never seen or gained any improvement for overall airflow.

Pete just sign up and make your own account on photobucket or use SAU to host them in your control settings

Long time no post in here...

I've had a couple of 32's and done the piping the conventional way and also the under/around set up but never really noticed any performance gains to warrant the extra piping length of the later. Like you said you dont get the hot air like you do with the piping sitting in front of the motor with the conventional way but i've never had engine temps that extreme to justify it. So with that said im lazy and if i can buy a pre made kit cheaper than i can do it myself that only requires minimal tweaking i'll take it everytime

Wasn't 100% finished. Going to be wild when its done and hopefully Matt gets to push it to its limits

Hey guys sorry for the delays, when i picked up the last batch of stickers i didn't check them as i was in a hurry. Anyway long story short they looked like absolute arse and i wasn't happy with them nor would i let them go on members cars. I rang the bloke that did them and he couldn't see my problems with them and reckons i was too picky. I told him he could stick it and i wouldn't be going back or recommending him to anyone in the future. I have been speaking to another person to do them but the software he has doesn't like the files i gave him so they require tweaking by me till we are 100% happy with them. Now here is the question, i can tweak the file and get them done ASAP or if you guys are keen i can get other SAU stickers done (same as my car ) for everyone instead of the basic vinyl cut ones. Have attached a couple of pics of the other style so please let me know so i can sort it all out ASAP Cheers Ben

SOLD

You "can" make your own vector file in the size that you require so its ready to cut

No worries good luck with it and like Chris said have a read over the threads in the Fabrication section that covers it if you haven't already done so

generally it is but some people like the aesthetic look it gives, its the old form over function debate, just like when 32 GTS-t drivers put a GTR bonnet on to help save weight. The size vinyl you require and the effort/cost it would take to do so you would be better to buy a carbon look bonnet instead. If you have a look around you should be able to find one for a S2 that doesn't have any vents.

Not that i or SAU would condone such behavior but you could just get some made yourself from someone that has a vinyl cutter

Its recommended that you give it a flick of clear to help reduce the likely hood of them oxidising

i said the samething to myself afterwards as well but its all a learning curve hey. Only reason i used clear was because we had it laying around and i was going to get artsy fartsy and spray it with a carbon fibre look

Dan post up some pics now you've fixed it up with another coat of paint. Looks good and we all start somewhere when it comes to DIY/fabrication

We used spray paint the first time and i scratch the service with some wet and dry the first time in aid of helping it stick. Now im not sure if it was the cheap paint and its materials or the roughing of the surface but after fitting the first box after about 15mins of testing we could smell it, pulled back into the pits and noticed that the paint had started to blister and was damaging the perspex Second time around i tried a few test pieces as well to see what would work the best, the one that was painted both sides and cleared on the outside seemed to give it that little bit more heat resistance and didn't blister the paint at all (still not really showing signs of heat penetration) after 4 track days and 3 test days. The one that was only painted on the inside showed signs of wear after a while and started to bubble. All i can put it down to is that its heated up from the outside in and baked the paint in the same way. If you dont feel like paying the extra money for stuff like VHT you can use standard acrylic. In the final few coats add some clear to the paint to help thicken it before doing a full clear. We paint all our engines/pieces like this and never have any drama's from heat issues. Main reason the matte working better than the gloss is its final finish when dry, to give the paint that gloss look it has other additives to do so (obviously ) but unless you were to add a few coats of clear to help harden it then the standard spray paints heat resistance is only about 200'C (from memory) something like VHT is about 500'C and your acrylic paint if done correctly the same. Try not to paint the box when its too cold/hot or you will have sticking issues as well and lead to a shorter longevity of the paint life. Hope it all works out and post up how it goes Cheers Ben

Two covert set ups, im still toying with the idea on making mine a little more inconspicuous but with the highmount, gate and fmic piping i dont think its really worth it Paul i like your idea about the 10% ethanol fuel polariser

Looks good Wazz, certainly a whole lot better than the original set up What are your thought for changing the piping routing like you do, is it purely for ease of set up or have you found gains/ease of use that way??? Cheers Ben

Tony just be careful with what paint you use on the perspex as it can actually change its heat resistance and course it to warp easier (found out the hard way) Underbody car spray (sound deadner) is what we found to be the best, it will not only help to reduce the heat you can make your box out of thinner materials and apply a couple of layers of the spray to add the thickness If your going to use heat resistant paint for it then paint both sides and clear the outside only

R32 GTS-t - RB20 MODS: TD-06 20g l2 kit with 10cm rear, 3" dump, FMIC, stock cat back/injectors/afm, 95RON Power Figure: 205rwk @ 14psi Price: $650 ECU: remapped Central 20 Service: Couldn't complain at the time Im currently looking at tuning option for old girl again with the new set up and after talking with Kuc he was not only extremely helpful but also came straight out and said that i should have a look around at other tuners as he didn't feel he could get the best out of my set up. Even after that he has still taken the time to answer questions that i've had so its a big for me to Pro Automotive I had my 1600 (FJ20) tuned by Kuc and the stanza (Z18) was tuned by Griffo using Kuc's dyno