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Ruffels

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  1. Do you have a problem with the inspection or certificate for your vehicle? If you believe that your vehicle was not roadworthy when you were given a certificate, then take the following steps: 1.Check first that the component in question is a roadworthiness inspection item. See: Road Worthiness Requirements [PDF 1,638KB]. 2.Contact the tester who issued the certificate and explain your concerns. In many cases the problem will be resolved. 3.If you have not resolved the issue, obtain an independent inspection from another licensed tester to support your claim and present a copy of this to the first tester. 4.If the independent inspection confirms your concerns and the original tester will not cooperate, then contact the VicRoads Vehicle Fitness Section on 1800 816 727 or 13 11 71, or send a written complaint with supporting documents to VicRoads, Vehicle Fitness Section, 1st Floor, 3 Prospect Hill Road, Camberwell, 3124. What are your legal rights? VicRoads does not have authority to require the tester to make good your vehicle or otherwise compensate you. These are matters for civil action. You can seek professional legal advice from a solicitor, take your dispute to the Victorian Civil and Administrative Tribunal (VCAT) or through the Magistrates court. Where a vehicle is purchased through a Licensed Motor Car Trader (LMCT) Consumer Affairs Victoria may be able to resolve the matter through negotiation with the LMCT.
  2. i bought a car, and it was issued with a roadworthy, when it clearly shouldnt have, neither previous owner, nor the mechanic who issued the certificate were willing to take responsibility... so i gathered my evidence, and presented it to vicroads.... he got a warning, and i was stuck with a shit car unfortunatly vicroads states that even if a mechanic issues a roadworthy when the car is not, they cant force the mechanic to make repairs to the car to make it roadworthy, so unfortunatly you do not have a leg to stand on when it comes to vicroads helping you... just hopefully more then 1 person reports him and he'll get a fine and have his roadworthy licence suspended
  3. oooo can i borrow your gaurd roller.... need to roll the rear gaurds on my gazelle.... infact .... would you like to practice on my gazelle ? ... then you'll be a pro and can do it yourself!!! on that not, sorry to hijack your thread, but anyone who has a gaurd roller is welcome to practice on my gazelle if they like, i need them done, and i dont care how good the result! i really dont care!
  4. if your looking for somewhere that does exotics.. i quite often see ferrari's, mercs etc getting fixed in Carpenters Body Works in heidelberg west never used them, but have heard they are top notch
  5. actually hold on... he said 2.5L, scrap what i said!
  6. if it's the car i think trent is talking about then its a 1.5JZ with t04 in a cressida it actually made 451.7rwkw on 20psi using e85 .. think it was the last car trent tuned before he went away to get chained up... err, i mean married
  7. not really relivent, but i stole the mos burger drink coasters from the mos burger in shinjuku so free bump i suppose (wish i could afford them)
  8. Parking Safety Camera's? WTF.... now they are making technolgy do a scumbags job! tell them that you never actually stopped, you travelled through the no standing at a speed of 0.3km/h
  9. nice pics! ... whos the dikhead that parked backwards though?
  10. i do all the mechanical work on my car my self, so Trents system works perfectly for me! just remember as he does no mechanical work, only tuning... he can only work with what you give him, some people have been sent away, trent is very good... but no one can polish a turd!
  11. it was done recently to a 1970's ta22 celica.... so i think if you can put 32gtr gear into a ta22, you can put it into an r31 no worries
  12. as many runs as you could possibly want! weather was fantastic, 15 degrees all day, sunny, mostly blue skys with a few cloudy patches, dry track and no wind! was amazed at nutr33 pulling 1.7 60footers and consistant mid 11's!!! managed a 13.55 @ 112 mph in rics car, not bad.. but unskilled launches and street radials will never help
  13. also have silvertop rb20 with slight beairng knock up for grabs
  14. haha... i think you'll find that "japanese factory smell" is stale cigarette smell
  15. wow... maybe mines been removed, coz i looked and couldnt see any form of adjustment oh well i stand corrected.. still belive they are low beam driving lights, which there is no mention of in the rule book
  16. ok i've been told off many times driving through booze busses for having my "lights next to my indicators" on my r33 series 2 on. now reason i dont call them fog lights are because i believe they are not! * fog lights in the front of a vehicle are usually yellow in order to penetrate fog as white light simply reflects and becomes worse in foggy conditions * fog lights on the rear of cars are usually red to penetrate fog so you are visible to cars behind you in foggy conditons both are only allowed to be used during adverse weather conditions and must be switched seperatly to normal operating lights ... HIGH BEAM driving lights must also be switched on seperatly to normal operating lights or switched on similtaneously with highbeam headlights and must not be used within 200m of other cars or in built up areas from what i understand now there is no ruling for LOW BEAM driving lights (which i believe the R33 s2 lights fall into) there is no adjustment in the s2 low beam driving lights, they are fixed and as a test i had my low beam headlights perfectly alligned using a certified machine to vic roads standards and the r33 s2 low beam driving lights are actually lower then the low beam headlights, but have a slightly wider spread, which is great around where i live for lighting up the side of the road where waiting wombatsor kangaroos might be lurking
  17. ok, so short of re-checking the timing belt for the 3rd time.. does anyone have any other ideas?
  18. i didnt check the bottom line, but assmed it wold be right as i was quite confident when i installed the timing belt, bt also because when i checked it the other day i found tdc on nmber 1 cylinder and the two upper marks matched,
  19. how obvious is a tooth out on the timing belt in terms of behaviour of the cars running performance, it idles fine, revs fine, and still feels fast! doesnt spit or splutter! i did the 100k service myself.. changed; timing belt, idler and tensioner pulleys, front crank seal, water pump, thermostat, top and bottom radiator hoses, rocker cover gaskets, half moon seals, spark plugs, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, a/c belt, p/s belt, alt belt, radiator cap etc etc and the only thing i can think of that could be affecting all this is the timing belt, but i was confident when i put it on, And to double check, just the other day i pulled off the top timing case and pulled out #1 spark plug using the long screw driver trick to find TDC on #1 and then looked to see if the marks lined up, which they did! so i got no idea
  20. also checked compression at got 1. 160 2. 161 3. 160 4. 159 5. 160 6, 159 using new bcpr7es 0.8 plugs
  21. i did ask him, but he wanted money for his advice
  22. not running a boost controller... just a high pressure wastegate actuator here are the graphs!
  23. cam belt timing has been checked and checked again... definatly ok! doesnt take much on the dyno to get it glowing! injectors are brand spankers fuel filter has been replaced quite recently just used standard wiring on the fuel pump and have not checked voltage/flow ... although afr's seem fine, so i assume its getting plenty of fuel The power comes on fairly hard.... but pictures say 1000 words... so i'll go grab the dyno sheet
  24. Hi guys, i've been scratching my head trying to work out why my car isnt making power, and im fairly sure there is nothing wrong with my car, but its only making 230rwkw when the hyperfear turbo I have is supposed to make 270-280rwkw heres a quick run down of what i have 1997 r33 gts-t unopened rb25det with 110,000kms - manual * Hypergear 3076 equivelent in standard front housing and op6 rear housing (76mm 52 trim compressor wheel, gt30 turbine wheel in 84 trim) * 550cc injectors * 3" bellmouth dump/front * 3" highflow catco cat * 3.5" fujitsubo catback * Z32 AFM * Bosche 040 fuel pump * Power FC * highflow panel filter in standard airobx running 20psi boost OK well the Turbo is a Hypergear and is supposed to make 270-280 rwkw ... but Trent (from Status) could only safely get 230rwkw out of the setup In the top end only 10 degrees of timing could be put in, before the car started to knock badly! Trent comented that usually he can get around 16 degrees timing, and that extra 6 degree of timing is most likely where the lost power is! but the car wont accept any more timing without becoming unstable we tested the exhaust, by dropping it before the cat and it made bugger all extra power, so the exhaust is not a restriction there are no restictions on the intake side, the intake pipe is not closing! we removed the airbox lid and filter with minimal gains there also and the turbo was glowing red/orange during runs with the fan going and even letting the turbo cool down sufficiently between runs base timing is perfect timing belt allignment has been checked and is also perfect! im out of ideas as to why the setup is only making 230rwkw and why it pings at anything over 10 degrees timing in the top end! anyone got anything i havent thought of?
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