jmac

out of interest: here's a "pre mods" power run. 198.5 rwkw. spec: pod full 3" exhaust (BATMBL split dump/front/cat and Blitz cat-back) gt2876r hybrid turbo as above turbotech bc running ~11PSI everything else = stock it's obviously running pretty rich and i guess bumping into the R&R from the stock ecu? anyway should be interesting once everything's done. waiting for the powerFC to arrive then the fun begins. final spec will be: pod full 3" exhaust gt2876r hybrid 14-16 PSI powerFC blitz LM FMIC bosch 040 pump nismo 480cc injectors Z32 afm if needed who knows what power. i think anywhere between 230 and 260 is a good guess. a nice chunky torque curve is what i'm after. thanks for your opinions too guys, it'll be interesting to see how this turbo goes. EDIT: forgot about 040...

hey, i went to a hardware store and bought a strap with one of those little clips that you can push on and pull the strap tight. on my 34 i was able to thread it down behind the back edge of the carpet and the through some of the metal structure of the boot floor and back out over the top of the sub box. also makes it easy to take the box out if you're going to the track or need to get at your spare. my car doesn't have the bit of wood stuff for the boot floor but the other option is to get one made one up and screw the box onto that. the sub still might go flying as you pull -1G getting air though.

hehe in my case there's nothing fancy, it was just a practical issue - the EuroX and NA-M's were very similar overall in temp range, friction coefficient etc but they didn't have EuroX pads that fitted the rear calipers in stock. the only diff was the EuroX were a little quieter and lower in dust.

hey, the "1/4 tank" problem with the 040 is due to incorrect fitting of the pump in the first place, nothing to do with the pump itself. sydneykid is not a fan of walbro pumps (which is enough for me, to be honest) and another guy i spoke to who has an escort race car said "nothing but bosch". you should be able to pick up an 040 for about $220-230 or less. how much power are you planning on making? the 040 will be fine up a point but you might need something bigger. but then don't go for overkill or you get noise and overheated fuel (depending on your setup)... cheers

hey, i got one of sydneykid's kits and got it installed at my mechanic's place down the road. called GMR genuine mechanical repairs in woolloongabba, speak to john he'll look after you and won't rip you off. then i just took it over to fulcrum to get it aligned. john can get a mobile guy in to do the alignment if you'd prefer. hope that helps.

Hey, I have something called "Euro-X" on the front and NA-M pads on the rear, these pads are great, squeal a bit when cold but get some temp into them (1-2 hard stops from 80-100 kmh) and DAMN do they bite hard. The guys at Centrax in Brisbane reckoned this is about as far as you'd go for pads that spend the majority of time on the street. Not too dusty either. Combined with a good disc machine these made a significant difference to the braking on my car. I'll be strongly considering getting more of these when replacement time comes.

Why not Cressida + 2JZ???

Buy the latest Motor magazine, I *think* those are in the tyre test they did... I have Bridgestone S-03s and love em....

Hehe yeah I probably do a couple of the things I mentioned too - driving too close so some turd doesn't cut into "your" gap, and completely ignoring roadworks signs if there's no evidence of people actually working...

I came up with this stuff ages ago (Motor published it in edited form a couple of years ago) after driving both interstate and especially overseas (USA/Canada) made me realise how much more alert and aware drivers can be and how much better things like 3 and 4-lane freeways can work if people just pay attention - not even drive "well", just wake the hell up to the needs of your fellow road users! Ahem... :lol: End of rant.... I've just come to expect such a bad standard of driving - a dude in an old white van nearly drove over the top of me today and by reflex I beeped and just started laughing at the same time because it was SO stupid, he didn't even look or indicate or anything... I like the thing about roundabouts too, especially stupid small roundabouts, people in Brisbane just seem to LOSE THEIR MINDS and go crazy...

that silver one is awesome - definitely my style. put some grandpa wheels on it, paint the FMIC black and tone down the cut-out in the front bumper and who's gonna know? (until you toast 'em)

Hey man am very interested to see how you go... I'm doing a spookily similar set of mods to my R34 (got the turbo high-flowed with a GT2876R core by MTQ here in Brisbane). BTW Jim Berry comes very highly recommended for clutches (RaceClutch/Avanti Spares at Stones Corner). Cheers!

ARE YOU....... having trouble fitting in on our lovely queensland roads? visiting from out of state or overseas? DO YOU....... want to become a better driver? then just follow jmac's easy 10 point step-by-step guide to becoming a typical queensland driver! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. never, ever pay any attention to which lane you should be in. doing 90 in a 110 zone? who cares! it's your RIGHT to be in the right lane. besides, you're doing everyone else who wants to arrive at their destination efficiently a favour by making sure they don't get a speeding fine! 2. don't accelerate to merge. merging? simply slow down and indicate if you feel like it. everyone will happily bunch up and try to become involved in a nose-to-tail accident just to let you in. besides, speeding up to the velocity of the traffic around you requires consideration for others. 3. don't let anyone in. ever. two lanes going into one? stuck in a traffic jam requiring people to take turns? somebody wants to get in front of you to exit (not having read the signs 2km back)? remember, that tiny, less-than-2-seconds gap between you and the car in front is an expression of your pride, (wo)manlyhood, ego and integrity. don't let someone steal your pride. be a prick and close that gap - everyone else can wait. especially if they are from victoria. 4. tailgating: it's fun! they go on about some nonsense called defensive driving. ignore that. if there are only two of you for miles around, still drive within 5m of the person in front of you - as if your life DEPENDS on it. you never know, you might even get there faster, and if they have to stop quickly you will make an insurance company somewhere very, very happy. 5. don't stop at stop signs. these funny red signs are really just jokes being perpetrated on us by road engineers with a sense of humour. employ the patented jmac technique of "slow down, check, and roll through". however, always stop completely at give way signs; these have two words and take longer for queensland drivers to read. 6. don't slow down for roadworks. again, those 80 signs on the freeway are just a giggle for the road workers. continue through at 100, or 90 if you are in the right lane (see above). 7. speed across the story bridge. they haven't put cameras on it yet. even the most conservative grandmother puts her foot down when she passes beneath that familiar giant meccano set. if you're from around here, you do 80 on the bridge. just be careful for mysterious commodores behind you. 8. indicate as you do it, not before you do it. you would think that they're called "indicators" because they're meant to be used to indicate what you're about to do. however, here in queensland, indicating gives someone an opportunity to stop you changing into "their" lane, or might help them pull out into an intersection or roundabout, thereby saving them time. screw that, everyone can wait. besides, you're keeping them on their toes. 9. pull out in front then slow down. there's no one behind that person coming on your right (as you impatiently wait at your side-street) for a kilometre. if you were courteous you'd wait for him to go past then pull out. not in queensland. pull out in front of him. don't accelerate all that quickly so he has to use his brakes to avoid you. then don't do the speed limit, do at least 10 under. most likely the person behind will then refer to point 4 above. 10. creep forward at red lights. who knows? maybe creeping over the line, blocking the pedestrian crossing and burning out your clutch if you actually have the coordination to drive a manual will make the light turn green faster. maybe you'll catch its attention, or something.

heh yeah don't the FWD drag guys need to chock up their rear suspension or something so it's rock hard just to keep the fronts on the deck? i was talking about the probably-terrifying levels of torque steer you'd get if you stuffed lots of evo power into a floppy FWD lancer chassis too... i'll stick to RWD or AWD thanks....

...plus if it was still FWD then it would change lanes spontaneously every time you floored it. "Hmm I think I wanna merge left" *pssch* SCREEEECH Although that would be kinda amusing... :lol:

Need bolt-in injectors for my R34 GT-T... can get them through Nengun but don't want to wait!!! There's a chance I can have my car on the road, tuned, by next week if I can find some injectors locally. If anyone knows of bolt-in injectors for the GT-T (i.e. no fuel rail mods etc required) please give me a yell, thanks.

Actually I thought torque did. Anyway all this is academic until I get it tuned. I didn't come on here to boast about dyno figures that don't exist, just wanted some opinions about this particular turbo because I'm not an expert on this. I got the "290 rwkw" figure from a fellow SAU member who knew of a guy with a similar spec to what I'm planning and his car made that number. I also have enough understanding to realise that a turbo's hp rating doesn't mean it's going to magically "make" that number. :lol: I'd much rather a low-lag, nice beefy torque curve. So we'll just see how it goes. The turbo's already bolted onto the car and I don't think the lag has increased that much compared with the factory unit. MTQ are meant to be an experienced lot who know what they're doing so we'll just see. Cheers guys...

heh man no you haven't, one of the most amusing threads i've seen. how about an ex-taxi (say an orange EL) with an xr6 turbo motor in it?

No specific guarantees, no. Like I said it's a prototype unit and they're actually keen to hear back from me once I get it tuned and running properly (slowly getting all the bits together to do so now). I think MTQ are trying to do more work like this 'cos they've probably been missing out on business. I'm not expecting 500hp, but hopefully it will make my goal of 260-290 rwkw (that's with PFC, 3" exhaust, FMIC, pump, injectors etc). I'm very curious to see how it goes given everyone seems to think it'll be pretty laggy.

Item: HKS HiperD adjustable coilovers, suit R34 GT-T Location: Brisbane (Southside) Item Condition: Used, good condition, no leaks, no problems Reason for Selling: Got a Bilstein/Whiteline kit installed Price and Payment Conditions: $1000 plus delivery if interstate. Extra Info: High quality silver/purple units, suit road use if you like a firm ride and would be brilliant on a racetrack. Have just recently come off my R34 GT-T and have done somewhere between 20,000 and 50,000 kms. Fully adjustable for height and 12-position adjustment for rebound damping, front and rear. I can confirm from experience that this adjustment makes a significant difference to the feel of the car. Rear allen-key HKS adjusters included, fronts adjust via a normal hex allen key. To be sold as-is. I have been offered $1000 for these by Zoom in Brisbane but would prefer they went to a nice home via SAU. Contact Details: John, Ph 0407 171 337, would prefer a PM first.

To be honest I think having rebound adjustment is not really that necessary for normal use. My HKS coilovers had that and I played around with it for a week then never touched it. It's just my opinion and I'm not some experienced race driver or anything but a well-sorted suspension setup doesn't need it, and simply adjusting rebound damping won't make an earth-shattering improvement if it's set up right in the first place. Even on the OEM market there seem to be very few active or adjustable setups that do anything useful - once you've got the balance set up how you like it, that's it... But if you want it there are some options around supposedly designed for local conditions but yeah, I don't think they're cheap... Hope that helps! Cheers

I recommend the Bilstein/Whiteline kit from Sydneykid. Why? Cos I got one. They are height adjustable at the time of installation (just move the circlip), and your car does sit a fair bit lower than stock. If you want fulli sik low ride height then look elsewhere because your suspension won't have enough travel and it'll f**k the handling. You'll be driving on public road, and it's got bumps - no point if your car flings itself off into the scenery if you're committed to a corner and hit a bump. Having had coilovers in the car I can say from experience that the Bilstein/Whiteline kit is a great compromise. And no I don't sell them. Check out page 2 of the R34 thread, I wrote heaps in there about my experience plus there's a photo to prove your car won't look like a 4x4 at the standard height of the Bilsteins. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=88141&st=0 Cheers!

I'm in. PM sent...

Hey guys - where'd you get the Blitz kit from, who did the install, how much, and are you happy??? FMIC in next on my list... trying to decide whether to spend $1000 or $4000.... Cheers!!!

The way I interpret the CHRA no (446179-0018) as matching the GT2876R... so they've put that core into R34 housings I guess? Garrett site: * Ball bearing * Oil & Water-cooled bearing system * Best suited for unique applications such as asymmetric turbo installations * Not recommended for general performance applications * T25 turbine inlet flange * Turbine housing option available * Actuator not included So I'm not sure what the MTQ guys were thinking....