jmac

nah this needed custom oil and water lines... bolted on to factory dump pipe no worries though. don't really know how it's going to run until i ditch factory computer and tune a PFC properly i guess. if it sux i guess i might take it back and throw it at them... i dunno... major weirdness.

Hmmmm... interesting how that doesn't match up to what they told me. This wasn't just a normal high-flow job I was told... they asked to have a few days extra as this was some "prototype" they were doing. They actually quoted me on a standard high-flow, then also quoted on an off-the-shelf Garrett unit, but said this was a bolt-on option they were working on for R34s. Now I'm wondering what the hell I actually got... The plot thickens....

Hey guys, Got a custom "prototype" turbo upgrade from MTQ for a cheap(er) price. Bolted on to the factory dump pipe. Rang them and got some specs, just wondering what you guys think of this combination of wheel sizes, etc - will this spool quickly once tuned, how much power will it make, any comments etc. Current mods: pod, 3" cat-back, Turbotech valve running ~10-11 PSI. Planned mods are dump/front pipe, cat, PFC, FMIC, fuel pump+regulator, 480cc injectors, Z32 AFM. Planning for 230 rwkws keeping boost 14-16 PSI. Eventually... This is what I was told: Ball bearing Garrett core. "The biggest T28 we have" Rated at "500 hp" Compressor wheel: Inducer 52mm Trim 48 Turbine wheel: Exducer 47mm Trim 76 Serial numbers on new turbo: IE 0105J 446179 5018 See attached "before and after" photos... (before = stock R34 GT-T turbo)

..... IDIOTS. I enjoyed reading that more than Motor sometimes....

Pic...

sounds like boost cut????? or ECU R&R??? you running the factory computer?

Hey choyda... I've been lurking in the shadows... Seriously this forum has been an awesome resource for me, only had my car since Feb this year but I haven't come up with one issue that someone wasn't able to help me with here. I'm planning to get out to cruises/meets/track days and stuff a lot more but want to get my vee-hickle running just the way I want it first. I'll definitely be waiting at least a week... payday y'see... and would def be interested in an alternative to the PFC provided there aren't "issues" and I can get it supported ok if it fries its little brain. I guess the FC is attractive in that lots of ppl seem to have them and know how to make them do stuff. But just because lots of people run Windows doesn't make it the best OS around either.... So keep me (us!) updated on Dan's exploits, $300 vs $1000-1200 is a convincing argument.

Spoke to them today, their solution for R34s is.... a PowerFC. So basically they offer what the other workshops offer although I must say they sound like they know what they're doing over the phone. Apparently they tune lots of Skylines there so I might check it out a bit further. They're getting back to me with a quote for the various things I'm planning to do.... (PFC, FMIC, pump, injectors, AFM).

Hey guys, has anyone here used ChipTorque (at Nerang) for their tuning? I was recommended to go to them by a mate at work... he reckons one of the guys there is a "Skyline freak". Tried searching but no hits! Anyone?...... (I'm just researching to see if there are alternatives to the ubiquitous PowerFC...)

yeah, well the theory was to hide it under the pod. "valve, constable? what valve?" the tubing size is so small and the pressure relatively high, a few extra cm's of length won't make any diff (according to what i can remember from highschool physics) but might stop it getting noticed. i'm also planning all sorts of craziness under the bonnet so having the extra length there for now is a good thing.

check the "tyres you have used" thread in the "Suspension, braking and tyres" section. bottom line is you mostly get what you pay for but there are some better "bang for your bucks" options out there. i'm very happy with my bridgestone S-03s but yeah they cost. people seem to like hankooks and maxxis in the cheaper tyres but be very careful you're getting the top model for each brand, even bridgestone, michelin, yokohama etc make sh*tty tyres. and do not ever go to k-mart auto, i had a very bad experience there once with them trying to massively rip off a friend of mine. find a good mechanic and stick with him/her! ...end of rant

Hey Dan, Geoff has lock bars for 34's. They're $150 delivered. Arrived in about a week. There's a thread somewhere, just search for his username GTRGeoff. I didn't take pics, but Gary has some in his gallery section. I can go take some pics but basically it's just some various yellow bits in your wheel well... There is also a tutorial on how to fit the HICAS bar with pics on here - I actually converted it into a word document and printed it out and gave it to my mechanic. The 33 and 34 HICAS bits look pretty much identical. The height is very easy to adjust, just compress the spring with those clamp things and move the circlip. One circlip lower than standard is the lowest Gary recommended, I left it standard and I'm happy with the car, I don't much care for the fully sick dumped look anyway. I got the kit fitted in Brisbane at my mechanics, GMR Genuine Mechanical Repairs on Deshon St, Woolloongabba. Any Brisbanites here give John a call, he's a good bloke, works late (he's often there past 10pm) and very up front about what he's charging you, I use him for my servicing and fitting all my go fast bits. Fulcrum did the alignment, took about an hour and $88 and they give you a printout. Very happy with the kit. It's still pretty stiff (especially in the rear) but at least I don't rupture my spleen on bumps all the time. Cheers

Hey all, Some feedback for everyone now I finally got the kit installed and aligned. Note also that I got one of GTRGeoff's HICAS bars installed at the same time. I'm running 18" wheels, 235/40 front and 255/35 rear tyres (Bridgestone S-03). My previous setup was HKS Hiper-D adjustable coilovers, running approximately a 340mm ride height. I believe as far as coilovers go these are on the higher-spring-rate end of things. Everything else was standard. Installation: Took 2 guys 4 hours, working pretty flat out, to get the old struts out and get the new ones in. No special equipment needed except a hoist and a 12 tonne press for the castor bushes. The back seat had to be removed. The job would've been very tricky with only one person doing it. Note as above that if you don't have your original struts then you will need to source some strut caps, these do not come in the kit and you can't use the bits from your coilovers. These were tricky to source but wreckers should help. Alignment: I did NOT order or install the camber kits, front or rear. Alignment at Fulcrum this morning resulted in getting the toes into spec and the cambers at about -1.5 degrees front and rear. Caster is about 7.5 degrees. The toes were out a LONG way (up to 13mm) after the install so don't wait too long to get it aligned if you're taking it elsewhere. I'd prefer to get a bit less negative camber on the rear but I'll see how it goes for tyre wear. Ride: This has improved by a few degrees. Nowhere near "cushy" but the car certainly glides over the bumps a lot better now, it especially handles the big hits a lot better. Previously the car would jiggle all the time and crash through larger bumps, enough to make you wince and the innards of the doors rattle, and if this happened mid-corner it would be enough to throw you offline. The "feel" for the road is still there, I still feel I know what the car is doing underneath me but it doesn't chuck me around as much any more. Handling: The car is much more predictable. I'm still learning to trust it, expecting that HICAS lurch to be there after I turn in, and the rain lately has meant I haven't really pushed things that hard yet. I have the rollbars set to their softest setting at the moment, still to decide whether to change this but very likely will experiment with this at a track day. Theoretically powerslides might be a lot more fun now, not that I would've done anything like that on a public road... Noise: The rear subframe kit is set up for the "maximum traction" setting. There is now a deep harmonic hummmm that thrums through the body as you accelerate hard (I guess this is diff noise). It's not obtrusive but it is noticeable - I actually think it feels kinda cool. The rear also let out a few low squeaks at first but I haven't heard this today after the alignment. Height: I left the circlips at the standard height and I'm happy with the look of the car. It's still "low" and the tyre-to-guard gap looks even around the whole guard, so I'm happy. Yes it's higher than before but this also means I can clear driveways and obnoxious traffic calming a little easier. Overall I'm pleased with this kit. Sydneykid has been most helpful throughout, answering questions and replying promptly to PM's. I'm happy with how my car stops and turns, now it's time to make it GO... after my credit card recovers... :lol:

advice: if you're taking out coilovers to put in the bilsteins, you'll need some strut tops, they don't come in the kits with the bilsteins and if you don't have your original ones then you might wind up like me who has to wait another day to get it installed!!!! :lol:

did some of those old mercs have an engine in them somewhere around the 7.0L mark anyway?? that would be so sweet. *jmac imagines the weekly fuel bills... and turns white*

all great ideas guys... hehe thanks! the VL dunnydore idea is obviously one of the easier conversions to do but MAN are those things cop-bait cars. IMHO....

Help I Can't Actually Steer!!!!!! :lol:

anyone here got a navy blue (i think) R33 GTST with what looked to be a winnie the pooh toy hanging off the bottom of it? i think it was piglet.... anyway - give me a yell if you're here, hope you heard my happy beep as you turned off onto creek rd.

Hey guys, was talking to my mechanic the other day and he reckons it's a good idea to have a "sh*tter" to run around in, you can park it anywhere, the cops don't notice it, you don't worry if some prick keys it or shoves their shopping trolley (Daewoo!) into it, etc. Got me thinking... anyone have any ideas for some amusing combinations? For some reason I thought of getting one of those old 80's Bluebirds and putting an SR20DET or RB25DET in it - could be an "interesting" combo. Another conversion I've always thought was clever was a 90's grandpa Cressida with the Soarer turbo engine... Just wondering if anyone else here has thought along the same lines? Cheers!

black stagea, behind me tonight on earl st annerley... anyone? i waved but not sure if you saw me due to tint. just normal qld plates, can't remember number. very mean looking car, dude.

yeah i gave it a miss due to the pouring rain and some aaaaaah hangover "issues". :lol: taking my only car onto a wet racetrack for the first time whilst feeling dizzy and hungover... yeah not so much of a good idea. i think the next QR track day is the plan now. not as much armco etc to hit out there... cheers

Hey guys thanks... 2nd last corner eh? I'll remember that. Yeah the entries are full for this one but I think they run days fairly often. Website here: http://www.mgccq.org.au/hillclimb.htm It is indeed a CAMS event, the cost for me was $20 entry and $20 for a one-day L1 license. The point is you get minimum 3 runs for the day. A friend reckons my car will pass scrutineering ok, basically all I'm planning to take is helmet, wrist-to-ankle clothing and driving shoes. I've heard the track is pretty narrow, sounds intimidating but I'll take it easy at first and hopefully have a great time.

Roughly how much would it cost to get the usual stuff engineered (turbo, pod, exhaust, FMIC, aftermarket ECU, fuel system, wheels+suspension etc)?

Hey all, Managed to get myself an entry into the "Come and Try" day this Sunday at the Mt Cotton Hillclimb. I was wondering if anyone here had driven this track before and has some advice for the hillclimb newbie? An insane mate of mine who races Escorts is going to sit in and hopefully show me a reasonable way around the place. All comments welcome........

So - what next? (drunken musings so be aware) Update: Got new turbo - prototype unit from MTQ, ball-bearing, full stainless steel Garrett internals, same front housing with new exhaust housing and custom teflon lines. Comes on boost a bit later (3500rpm) but smoother and harder. Turns out I had a Nismo front pipe and 3" cat-back system but still the factory dump pipe. A full turbo-to-cat 3" dump is coming. Got a Turbotech boost controller off the forums here, set it up to run a little less than 1 bar. Holds boost very nicely thank you very much and now goes waaaaaaay better than before. SOOOOO everyone is clicking their tongues and saying "dude you'll need a fuel pump, maybe a head gasket and a Power FC". So here's my questions: 1. What fuel pump and is it necessary? 040, 044??? 2. Head gasket? I know what this is but do I need a non-factory one? I'm pretty much resigned to getting a PFC in the near future once my budget recovers from the turbo... Ouch. Which then lets me get it on the dyno and see what duty cycle the injectors are running at. I just don't want the sucker to lean out too much in the meantime, hence wondering if I need a pump now. And then once I wind the boost up I might need a clutch.... hehhehehe "it's only money".... Anyway this is a "what would you guys do next?" post. I'm gonna stop before needing to do internal engine work, maybe 230 rwkw? Excuse the rambling, I'm currently "Wild the sphincter of the universe Enhanced ".