inissane

check out how dodgy this turbo looks on ebay at the moment, and the answer to the question asked is priceless, seller is either dumb or dodgy ebay RB25DET turbo

hey mate, cheers for asking, going along slowly getting her right gonna move the battery for the cooler piping me thinks and a rb25 turbo etc so should be fun when shes rolling. know your itching to get the new engine revving, good luck will be purring soon!! just need the R32 RB20DET pdf and we will be laughing...dont need as urgently as u it seems but still

2 hose connections on the bottom? doesnt sound much good maybe you got him upside down??- but there are a few threads around with this info so shoulda searched but anyway basically you want both rocker covers feeding the catch can (which is probably empty unless it cost sh#tloads - so as SK says - put stainless steel wool in a stocking inside the can so it will actually separate oil instead of just looking bling) then have the can feed to the pcv and also to the pipe between the afm and turbo (stock place it goes) - the only diff now is the catch can is inbetween the two spots the two lines originally went, hence leaving the pcv there are a few ways to do it depending on what u want, eg i have an oil breather and none going to intake - u really need to search and read up, gain an understanding then buy the parts for that design and then install

dont know much bout gtr s but i think its wrong exhaust manifold flange. gtr s use two flange more like those on the sr20det - you want a t3 flanged turbo to bolt onto stock manifold I take it

yes i want this too and also got the r32 gtr one

havent done it but am looking to do so, I would think injectors/afm/ecu fine for rb25det turbo upgrade but for a high flow depending on the output would need these three done. Also fuel pressure reg prob not much good unless ur injectors are maxing with rb25 turbo (non high flowed). im not sure of a few other things though: in terms of bolting her on i guess 2 new exhaust/dump gaskets and apply maniseal apparently?? Also is there torque settings that you have to use on these bolts on the t3 flange and to dump? Or do you just have a beer and a ciggy and get the spanner n im making too much fuss?? People also seem to say use the rb20 wastegate actuator cause it holds 9psi as opposed to 7psi for the rb25 one - how does this relate to your boost controller say an electronic one? Sorry for the hijack but hope u and others would also be interested, and we get some details from dudes datve dunnit do deir durbos...didnt mean that it just evolved...ok i shut up now :Oops:

i agree ur doin it by the book

um maybe because it was in 2004 and hooooooooch dug it up

lol u spakka, I made a joke, you didn't get it and I actually sent a pm with a reasonable offer for the turbo. It seems to be you who have nothing to do with this thread, just an irrelevant claim and no offer. I think the other comment was a bit rude but that maybe what the thread turns out like with elements of aggression in the original post.

found a couple of pics of the greddy ones to help me and others decide, they look like good units. type r is chuncky compared looks industrial eh! Do you reckon the blue nozzle on the rs is screw off? - and then another plumback adapter you mentioned screwed on? Do you reckon you could just get a pipe bit welded on even though may look a bit messy? Or even just stretch a hose over the nozzle and clamp? Kinda want the rs plumback :wassup: Type R/Type S Compare Type RS

anyone want to see a flaming :flamed: ill give you $65 incl delivery :Oops: ....err....uhh......actually pm sent

put me down for a Greddy RS or S not sure yet, heard type r is pretty full on, for gtr's in single turbo etc init?? anyway, know of any/much diff in the other two? I think S is 37mm and rs 40mm and rs not as whistley and both can be plumbed back though rs nozzle maybe harder to get a tube on. can you confirm/ideas

not sure of exact terminology in terms of row or core, however I know when you take the cap off the radiators and look in there, on both items there is one thick tube and i would expect it to be the same all the way to the bottom of the radiators. The r33 one is stock in a r33 for sure and 99% sure the other is gtr, but hey maybe there isnt any or much diff between r32 gts/gtr ones. ofcourse they are one overall core unit but how are they 2 row??

bump....lol

hmmmm, I have a r32 gtr radiator and a r33 gts radiator in the driveway and both are single row

r32 gtr radiator is still single row also not much thicker, flows a little better apparently (than gts). r33 radiators (both) are a bit taller not sure if they will fit, they wouldnt fit in my 180 but r32 gtr one did (also r32 gts fits) i reckon forget all these as they are not much of an upgrade anyway, maybe get an aftermarket one - you definately need a new radiator?

there are bits of truths here and there but generally bs - just get some 245s on the back and u will be fine they will fit on sweet. The quality of the tyre you put on depends on ur driving habits etc and say what tyres you got on the front? std suspension? large wheels/tyres been put on skylines since blot, hes probably old school you get what you pay for usually in terms of grip, a quality michelin tyre of 225 diameter would kill a 255 falken but you may wear it quicker and it not be worthwhile - depends

RB25DEs can go to hell :wassup: you are kidding arent you, just put in an rb20det or rb25det, otherwise if u are an atmo nut (nothing wrong with that) sell it and get a car that is an atmo performer. the problem with your reasoning is that on the one hand you are modifying an atmo engine for performance by adding a turbo, while on the other, the advantages of the forced induction are restricted by a want for off boost response/power thats just my ideas, good luck

cheers guys interesting, my rears wearing is as much due to my occassional penchant for improving power slides turning into drifts :kick: and i guess that if I am really pushing and wearing my fronts it means I am going around corners far too quickly to be legal on the road. Having said that I am interested in reducing rear wear so ideas apprec (cheers SK), have cusco coil overs all round. Maybe these combined with the odd 185 tyre i lob on is the problem! And AB good point about high speed corner entry, good example is the right hander at the end of the straight at Wakefield - dam thing almost went sideways on a down change at 160km/hr, dont suppose the grip differential would improve that at all! maybe wider street rears

am contemplating the tiltled setup for improved braking and front end grip without breaking the bank cause my rears dont last that long anyway. Is this a reciped for snappy or excessive oversteer? Will it be imbalanced or if driven with the setup in mind should be ok? ideas apprec PS 180sx RB20DET infrequent track work and understand front wet grip may be reduced

bleed valves will do that in my exp thats why i got an electronic one, a couple of times i saw mine up to 19psi...........friggin freaked me

cheers ed I think u 2 have OCD regarding dump pipes, get the hell over em, anyway i know what i need so pls continue......

lol.....ok firstly forget S15 turbo you need a turbo with a T3 flange, i would suggest looking at a r33 rb25det turbo, same flange bolt on not much to change extra 20-30rwkw apparently if setup right - i would suggest getting all the info b4 saying stuff like "i dont want something as big as a TO4 that will spool up at 6 grand" or "i dont want another ceramic turbo". one tip if new at these things, use the search function to find hundreds of threads on similar topics

going into car in next week or two so no exp using it yet, maybe some slightly more specific questions otherwise you might just get yes, no, no, no, yes...... and are you aware of another in depth thread re this topic http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ighlight=jaycar

ok now im gettin hijacked, oil coolers ya (not you ryan ) PS Sneaker - stick the twin dumps where the sun dont shine now your gettin :flamed: :flamed: :flamed: