inissane

yep yep go the socceroos, think it might be speed vs size

i did this in 180sx, grab a battery off wrxhoon in the group buy section (if hes still doing em) they are a sealed lead battery which i then just popped in a non sealed battery box from supercheap auto, secured in the boot run the existing earth from engine to chassis run thick cable from battery + to existing terminal under bonnet run earth from battery - to chassis in boot

none, skylines are T3 style flange sr20's are T28

cheers pred

saw the one on my old mans r33, looks to be different im thinking now dunno bout the plugs tho??

hey just quick q as in title, i know the coils are the same for r33 s1 and rb20det so was wondering if the ignitor is the same??

unscrew it might be hard but yeh

front of the plenum/manifold on the right hand side where an oil breather hose goes to the top of rocker cover

its just the friction and tightness of the wrap, and then hose clamp the ends, seems to stay tight for me

nooooooooooo............say its not so.....how do i get this tested for?? about a year back the timing belt/water pump was being replaced in a certain Syd imports/skylines workshop and they farked the head by turning it over with no timing belt or something totalling a valve - causing no comp in that cyl they then sent off the head to be fixed and put her back together, duno if that means anything here but yeh thnx for ur input Terry

my understanding is oil for the bearings core etc and water thru jacket to cool turbo?? but the thing is none of these really contact the exhaust wheel as FATGTS-R mentioned which can still cook thru high temp exhaust from running higher boost than was designed for

yep thats also happening coolant is rusty dark and have probably needed to refill more than normal.....engine head has been reconditioned a little while back tho...... i think ur onto my prob Terry....tells me

kinda on the topic of rb20det injectors can u high flow the stockies for more headroom so not needing the resistor setup??

Hey guys, k over the last few months i have a worsening starting problem in the RB20DET. Battery is cranking it fine and starter too but it just doesnt want to turn it into an idle Im also experiencing clutch in/braking stalls at lights which is particularly fun when it takes 10 cranks to get it going have to heel toe gas to keep alive mostly cold start - about 1 in 3 cranks it will start hot start - about 1 in 10 cranks to start the bugger, and both scenarios require throttle to gain a stable idle I also had a miss a while back but replaced a faulty coil and renewed spark plugs and its now running very strongly and quite smooth.....when it finally gets going that is other info: battery new and charged afm recently cleaned aac valve cleaned pretty sure no vaccum leaks 040 fuel pump earthed to chassis (not ecu) as per thread on here Ive done a bit of research and from what i can gather possible causes of this could be: leaking injector/s or fuel pressure reg?? faulty coolant temp sensor ignitor faulty/ overheating coils again, but there is no miss really and power is good?? Thx for reading would really apprec some input/help/ideas as to why it doesnt want to start properly and stalls now and again!!!! car has: rb25 turbo, fmic, pod filter, stock bov, 10psi, remap ecu, exhaust ps- could start maps be crud on the remap?? just an afterthought but problem has been worsening so maybe not

that piping design is commonly used and is fine, if u dont hav that 180 degree bend u have 2*90 degree ones anyway and longer piping been said many times b4 not worth 1000 dollars worth of plenum for no benefit but 2 bends and a lil length

yeh mine wasnt insured lucky it turned up with bolt ons gone tho wtf is it with lane cove and these cars getin flogged so much???

fark not good im from lane cove too hope u get her back in one piece dude mine was flogged from my driveway couple of years back and turned up 2 weeks later in a parking lot near maquarie uni

i have this same problem its really pissin me off gota get to the bottom of it now stalls coming up to lights on clutch in/brake and have to heel toe blip accel to keep it alive, starts 1 in 5 cranks too ive sorted the battery, coil packs, plugs and wired fuel pump to 100% duty (040 just making sure lower setting wasnt causing stall) and no love next i guess ill check afm, aac, injectors :

dont need another filter, mesh on bottom is fine ie no sock i just put the standard hose clamped over that threaded part, not ideal i guess hope doesnt work away at the hose, should be right but

u dont really need a remap u could do it later if $$ is an issue, it will run ok on stock ecu if u look around ull find series 1 turbos as low as $300

lol kimi is a champ, quiet guy but in a F1 car he means business....nice move going to the boat hehe commentators seemed to reckon it was the nail in the coffin of ms's career would be a shame for such a genius but from allcounts looks like he did pull a swifty and got what he deserved.....fool, he shoulda just settled for the front row and fkn fisichella not letting mark thru was bs on a track like monaco not that it really mattered in the end but added to his frustration

i have the same thing ducki battery and charging checks out fine but after 3-4 days it will be flat... lets just say i get my moneys worth for my nrma subscription ive got myself a trickel charge unit plug in from mains to stop annoying them

so i guess splitfire coils for series 1 r33 gts will also go into a rb20....

yeh at the end of the day they do the same thing just get a good tune on either and ur away if ur gona be changing setup lean towards the pfc, if ur keeping it pretty much same setup definately the ecu remap

use insulating tape over the coil pack to stop sparking is what he meant i spose