femno

Im also pretty cut up that I miss out on you guys coming down, talking shit and having drinks n shit. DW ill make up for it next time. You know I will haha

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Suspension Package SOLD Thanks folks.

Offers?

I dont understand, you cant get them anywhere cheaper new so why does he have to put them on his wall? Pov kents... On the other hand you if hadve sold them 6 months+ ago for $300 youd of had your $350+post from 6 months+ worth of interest from having the money if ya bank...just sayin

Surely someone is building their 26 and wants to ditch the old crumbling balancer that has the front lip chipped off!

or check continuity of the afm wiring. 32s are getting old and so is the wiring.

Hey mates, For sale here is a BRAND NEW ROSS Tuffbond METAL JACKET Harmonic Balancer. Suits R32 GTR. Never used, not even trial fitted. Selling due to use of later model power steering pump. Its the New Generation model which has improved on the first design in many ways. $600 inc freight anywhere. Located in Melbourne, can ship. Cheers, Mat. 0400 558 030

Probably coming out this weekend. Ready for sale/no more test available.

Yep, we have a Tial 38mm running straight off a turbo housing in a low mount application...which would get mega hot compared to having it off the manifold at the collector. It runs the coolant through it and the boost curve is straighter than a ruler. Under racing conditions where everything gets super hot and the metals and welding are under most strain, the coolant helps lower temps down and prolong the life of the wastegate. The diaphram's life will be extended, as rubber perishes from heat over time. I prefer TIAL gates as weve had ONE genuine TS gate jam. Theyre both good designs and nice and compact. The feature of the coolant cooling is favourable if youre racing it, but whether you have room for the lines (assuming twin scroll since youre using 2) or not is another thing to consider.

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Hi guys, For sale here is a full set of Bilstein Shocks to suit R32 GTR or GTS4. Valved by Sydneykid a few years back, they have done maybe 15000km while on my car and have been fantastic; but now its time for some more serious coilovers which is the reason for sale. The shocks are circlip height adjustable with a few settings, fixed dampers. These are fitted with Japanese RSR Racing springs, with around 7kg up front and 5 at the rear. This package is a great setup good for street as theyre very comfortable, great for track, motorkhanas and even great for drag, very balanced. They give VERY GOOD WEIGHT TRANSFER! Something very useful for GTRs. This shock and spring combo has been extremely competitive during their use: 11.56 1/4 mile on 245 street tyres with 300kw in full street trim 1:40 around winton on the same tyres, power and standard brakes, used only with whiteline sway bars and adjustable front uppers set on about 2.5 deg 1st place in a DECA motorkhana event, same setup So these are a great bolt-in package which will really improve the handling of the car without the useless and silly harshness of 'racing coilovers', harder definitely isnt better for a GTR that sees all kinds of use. No knocking, no noise, nice and firm, no leaks. Asking $800 ono Located in Melb, no problems freighting. Happy to take serious Melb buyers for a spin if needed, as theyre still fitted to the car. Cheers, Mat. Nice height Good weight transfer!

Sorry Bec you gotta take me off too, because Leon decided to have DECA the same day I have a wedding to go to. GTR is all ready to go too...

+1 for tool who thinks hes better than everyone else cos hes got/had a 35 and has a merc. Woopdy doo.

Hi guys, Im pretty sure this is the best place to ask...Im wondering if anybody at all has a CAD model of the body of a R32 skyline, on any CAD platform? As far as I know you can buy them but thats no good considering I could just spend a weekend measuring the car up...just trying to save a little time. If anybody knows anyone or has it themselves please let me know any help would be appreciated. Cheers, Mat.

can I borrow it? promise ill give it back..

Watch this ^^ guy he'll try and sell you one for 400 then suddenly decide to try and rip you 550 for it.

So how much are you actually selling them for?

My ports have been matched to the factory gasket port size; so theyre not huge or anything. Again maybe in a while if I have nothing better to do I could maybe do some 1" runner items, mild would be a little easier, maybe even use thinner wall stuff just for ease of fab...machine up some nice port size-to-1" 'cones' and use those. At the moment im concentrating on getting the car ready to get back onto the race track. I also have the issue of #6 runner being very close to the heater core in/outlet and consequently dont have my heater connected. It was impossible to design for it as I didnt have any measurements when the motor was actually in the car. Will be coming up with a solution pretty soon as the colder months close in. For those who asked ill grab the next opportunity when someone is driving near me to take a video.

Blitz filter and R32 strut brace sold Rest still available

Yep easily 25 hours in them...if I was to make any more id have the merge parts milled...those took ages. Its just the fact that the 3mm thick stainless takes so long to grind and cut through. When you say larger, larger than what? The ID isnt alot bigger than the runners on the cast manifolds, but have you seen how much open space there is inside the factory 'merge'? Its massive. Most manifolds made by other guys all use 1.25" Nominal Schedule 40 materials, so thats why I decided to use that size. Theres also the issue of the port areas being MUCH bigger than the area of the 1.25" pipe. I havent calculated it but its alot. Say If I went to 1" pipe, the difference between the port and the runner sizes and areas would be massive. Have a look at the photo of the head flange after de-burring. You can see the runner ID is alot smaller than that of the port. So as these were the first ones I kept things to what I knew worked so it wasnt a total waste of time. I agree with the momentum point, well, maybe not so much momentum but moreso velocity, its possible I could machine some port size-to-1" reducers and put them somewhere and use the 1" pipe with them, that may give some better results or maybe shift the curve a bit to the left without restricting top end power with my measly 350kw. When ive got a spare few weeks, and ive forgotten how much of a pain they were to make then maybe ill have another go... Interesting fact: Burns stainless in the U.S ('top notch' exhaust guys) suggested to use 5/8" tube for my setup. haha.

Thanks alot guys appreciate the comments. Turbos are exact factory position with dumps and fronts, oil and water lines going straight in. RP said theyve toyed with something like this before, without any great results; but I was still happy to give it a go and glad I did. Not a boiler maker but I did just finish my engineering degree. I dont think I would consider pulling everything off to replace housings with external gate ones, if you can get them? Let alone the packaging issues, it was a squeeze to get the intake and cooler piping in there! Would also be very costly. Cant imaging having 2 gates with piping in there as well. Maybe another project for another rainy day! Cost was awesome! Believe it or not the stainless 316 bends were like $5 each!! I think I spent $200 on the bends and pipe, $200 on the machining, the flanges and jig pieces were free and plus gas and other welding supplies which I dont know how much they added to, maybe $100. Overall the cost was nothing which made this option so attractive. So say $5-550. But having said that I now know why aftermarket manifolds cost $1200 and more, because theyre so damn labour intensive; but, the second manifold was made in half the time of the first.. What I dont understand is why Fullrace ones are double when the costs are not. But they look really good so I guess thats ok. Mine probably could have looked like theirs if I cleaned them with the special acid they clean them with to bring out the colours in the welds, but when to stop?

So, I was thinking how it would be cool to have a set of 6boost low mount tubular manifolds or similar to replace the factory items on my RB26. Around 18months ago I had a small problem with my engine that meant it had to be pulled out so it was a good opportunity to investigate and experiment with the manifolds. The current setup was the usual -5s and 18psi making about 340kw with a tune suitable for track use, so pretty conservative and safe. Looking at the factory cast unequal length units with no sort of proper merge collector I thought anything that could improve the features of the manifold could yield some better spool-up times and maybe shift the graph a little to the left, maybe even allow the setup to produce some more power overall. So features such as having a nice merge collector, equal length runners, constant radius runners, smooth ID runners. Also having the extra length in the runners, like big single setups, would maybe change the exhaust note a bit and give a bit more of an angry bark to it, which would be a cool bonus. So looking firstly at the 6boost steampipe manifolds, closely following Matt (BoostedR) in his thread (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/355887-6boost-rb26dettt-manifold-install/) about getting them to fit his engine, I found that they werent a good option due to the issues with fowling the head, the 2 manifolds sitting the turbos in different positions to each other, and sagging after little use. After closer inspection I also saw that the 3rd runners used some short radius bends (as oppose to large radius bends) which wouldnt be ideal for good gas flow. The $1200 pricetag to buy all those problems didnt help either. Next were Fullrace. Man they make some awesome manifolds. They didnt list any for factory low mount position on a 26 but im sure they could have done some quite easily. Im also assuming the price tag would of been of the order of $2000+. I wasnt about to spend that much on something that wasnt guaranteed to give incredible results. The Tomei stainless manifolds arent equal length and are known to crack, so those were out. So i decided the only way to get what I wanted was to go custom. I decided I would make my own. Id never done anything like this before so I thought id give it a go and learn some stuff in the meantime, inspired by the crazy Fullrace stuff. The cost was nothing compared to buying a set and my time was free so even if the manifolds didnt work I wouldnt be losing alot, so I was prepared to have the results go either way. I did some(alot) of research and decided how I was going to do it all. I used the factory manifold to make a jig, as I wanted the turbos to sit in the factory positions. I modelled the manifolds up on CAD. Equal length within about 1 or 2mm of each other. 1.25" Schedule 40 (aka Steampipe) 316 Stainless. I made the runners as short as possible while still fitting them in. The ideal length of the runners I could not determine without knowing exhaust gas pressures and EGTs, but im sure the manifolds could be used to optimise an area of the graph based on that data. I drew and had a mate of mine cut some flanges out for me from 12mm Mild Steel, nice and thick to seal well. I had the computer spit out patterns for the merge collector parts and the angles required for the runner bends. Spent ages grinding and tacking them together. Pain in the ass working with 3mm stainless, its so tough! All welded up. Man stainless steel pulls so hard when you weld it! A quick bead blast as well to clean them up. A quick de-bur inside too. CNC Flange machine by my mate at Wheeler Engineering. Farking top machinist, 100% flat. Fitted up to the engine. Looks mad. They required new water lines to be made just to replace the factory one that usually runs over the top. Just a few fittings. New intercooler and intake piping with factory BOVs plumbed back to suit. I got over bov/compressor noise long ago. Ally flanges by Wheeler Engineering. Finished bay. Pretty happy with all my hard work. So the complete project probably took 2-ish months (in between other stuff) to make the manifolds and do the piping to suit, including me overcoming the problems associated with welding ally (absolute pain in the ass, Brad (Risking) helped heaps). The ONLY other change I made to the setup was to replace the 100mm HKS drag cooler with a Greddy 76mm Twin entry tube and fin cooler, which was better suited to track and kinda worked out well with having to make new piping anyway. I also changed from HKS mushroom pods to 3A racing filters. Absolutely everything else remained the same. The engine had just a quick freshen up and some top end stuff done. Nothing upgraded. Oh, except for the Tomei oil pump and nice Racepace baffled sump for extra street cred. I took the car back down to Racepace for its run-in and re tune with the new manifolds and cooler. Results: The previous dyno graph was done in August 2007, (Blue graph), new graph in Feb 2012, (Red graph). The boost was the exact same, its just that the boost measuring module was playing up back in 2007. Same dyno, same wheels and tyres, same high level Racepace tuning method. The difference in the dyno results I think is negligible, considering the 2 extremes in climate; summer, winter, among other uncontrollable things. HOWEVER, a result which cannot be seen and only felt is the difference in transient boost response at revs. It is INSANE. There is next to no delay in boost building going from light throttle to full throttle at 5k+ rpm. So that was something. The car also absolutely roars when under boost, sounds very angry, and the volume has increased a bit too. Manifolds have also gone a nice goldy/purple colour! Any questions, constructive criticisms please add. Thanks for reading, Mat.

LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE! SR, CA, Z32, RB20, RB25, RB26!! Pics for everything available on request, or find pics in here: http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?app=classifieds&module=core&do=view_item&item_id=4506 CHEAP! Here goes: > RAYS Gramlights 57s pro titanium 19 x 10 + 22 - $4000 inc centre caps and top of the range potenza Re001 tyres 99% brand new > Nissan turbo timer plug in harness - $10 > 180SX headlight vertical support left - $20 > 180SX headlight vertical support right - $20 > Blitz SR20 Air Filter includes AFM mounting plate - $30 > SR20 Knock Sensor good - $50 second hand > SR20 Knock Sensor BRAND NEW $175 genuine > Silvia turbo Oil Line - $10 > Silvia turbo braided oil line - $20 > Silvia turbo Water Lines - $10ea > SR20 Starter/alt gearbox loom - $40 > Silvia Hot Pipe turbo - $10 > T2 Laser Cut flange - $20 brand new > T25/28 Laser Cut Dump Flange - $20 brand new > Silvia Belt Buckles - $30/set of 2 > S13 Belt Reel D/S - $20 > S13 SR20 interCooler Bracket - $5 > S13 ign switch - $10 > S13 engine battery earth cable - $5 > S13 SR20 egr tank bracket - $10 > S13 rear calipers with good pads and lines - $40 > S13 e brake - $15 inc rubber cover bit > S13 climate control loom - $50 inc relay! > S13 centre bearing bracket - $5 > Screamer Pipe! - $10 > S13 castor rods ready for bushes - $20 > S13 Front Brake Lines not cracks - $10 > S14/S15 good rear discs - $20 > CA18 Alternator - $50 good working > S13 ca18 clutch master slave and pipe - $20 no leaks > S13 rear knuckle right - $20 > S13 rear knuckle left- $20 > S13 Handbrake Cables - $10 ea > R33 GTSt Handbrake Cables - $50ea > 180sx fuse box cover - $10 ea > s13 door loom - $15ea > s13 side mirror interior plates not broken - $10 ea > R33 GTSt rear lower control arms - $30ea > R33 GTSt rear upper control arms - $30ea > R33 GTSt rear traction arms - $30ea > R33 GTSt 5 stud hubs - $100pair > R33 GTSt handbrake assembly inc shoes and clips backing plate etc - $75 > R33 GTSt rear knuckle no backing plates - $50ea left and right > R33 GTSt drive shafts 5 bolt - $50ea left and right 2 sets available! > S14 drive shafts 6 bolt - $50ea > R33 GTSt good stock shocks no leaks - $25 ea > R33 GTR carpet good nick - $50 > GTR knock sensors BRAND NEW 2 of them from nissan - $300 > R32 GTSt GTR strut brace - $50 > 300zx Z32 air flow metre BRAND NEW! - $285 with plug not neg > 300zx viscous diff non turbo 5 bolt! - $150 > 300zx drive shafts 5 bolt - $50ea > RB20 gearbox $300 - typical slightly noisy cluster bearings - synchros and gears mint though. cheap fitting available in melb. > R32 or R33 gearbox crossmember - $30 > RB gearbox mount - $30 non awd one > RB clutch slave cylinder - $30 > RB crank angle sensor BRAND NEW - $370 suits all rbs with minor mods to R34 models > RB26 Carbon timing cover - $125 not from ebay! better unit! > RB26 Painted timing cover - $150 mint! > RB26 rubber Intake Pipes - $50 ea > RB26 Intake valves good condition - $15 each > RB26 ally intake pipes with 2 bolt holes - bolt on front of turbos - factory ones $50ea > TR29 Turbo - used for 5000km PERFECT CONDITION - $300 Located in melbourne, can post everything, at your cost. 0400 558 030 after hours only if youre calling. No time wasters FFS! I only have these parts please dont ask for anything else.. Cheers, Mat.

Timing Covers and intake parts still available