femno

Awesome ally welds. Would love some tips on how to get such a nice finish. Ive just spent a whole day trying to work out why my tig wont weld ally properly, and I have thus found out how much stainless f**ks (read: contaminates) everything up.....

Not telling! Its a budget one but should work pretty well. Its probably a little big for what we want, but we just cant help ourselves

OK, a quick update After sourcing some 5 bolt drive shafts...we assembled the spool and shafts back into the car. I also worked on the hydro e-brake one arvo to make it suitable to use the way we wanted it: from this: to this: Looks good! Mounted: As Campbell said, we worked on the exhaust using an old s14 3.5" catback, modded that and made up a front pipe for the exhaust. Since there was no cannon on the catback we decided to use some small exhaust pipe for the tail/tip. We also found 2 mounting holes for brackets on the underside of the plenum actually went all the way through! So we had a BIG airleak. Fixed that! Campbell also wired up the thermo fans and temp switch, and I wired up the hektik monster tacho. Both work great! We also pulled the gearbox and fitted a suitable bearing carrier for the twin plate. The first one we used was too long and the fork position wasnt right. Then literally 10 minutes on the rollers doing some really quick tuning, the car now runs fantastic and motor sounds healthy! We did however find that the turbo gives ABSOLUTELY NO BOOST!!!! So we got shafted buying that second hand turbo. I also found that the wastegate lower port had exhaust soot on the fitting....busted diaphram!!!! So on the turbo side of things its not going well... In other news the upper sump and timing chain covers are leaking oil. We are pulling the engine out and are going to reseal those then put it back in again, no big deal, its really easy to work on anyway. We have ordered a BRAND NEW turbo! Y'all can wait and see what it is in further updates.

The electric door mirrors weigh 2kg each! GT ones weigh 200grams.

Hey guys, For sale here is a front set of R32/Z32 280mm Calipers and rotors and pads. Perfect working condition, NO leaks, discs are below min and pads are fairly farked. Includes pins and brackets and stuff. No lines. $150 Located in Melbourne, can post. Cheers, Mat. 0400 558 030

Hey mate, Just wondering if you have one of these?? Please PM if so, cheers.

You missed the operative word if.

If you decide to separate parts id be interested in the c pillar trims if theyre good. Let me know if you do.

R33 GTSt Diff SOLD

offers considered

Thanks Leon, Ryan, Bec and everyone else who makes Deca happen....its such a fun event! LOVE the mini mega wang! Congrats to the championship RWD and AWD winners/runners up. Also, thanks to volunteers who also make these days happen. Nice to see some news names at the top end as well the results were interesting considering the wet/dry/wet/dry/wet conditions of the day... Thanks to Russell for letting me pedal his average skyline around...the 1-2 rwd result is a credit to him and the work thats been done to make it what it is. Looking forward to next year, especially to see the new and fresh ideas coming up making Deca even more exciting!

Shut up man Ash and the crew have been/are doing a perfectly fine job.

Could you please ask god what the offset is

Ha. Not the case for everyone but I'm with ya!

Hey guys, I have for sale: R33 GTSt Handbrake cables, left and right - $150 R33 GTSt Rear Knuckles/Uprights, left and right, including handbrake assemblies, shoes in GC, hub and backing plate - no brake disc or caliper - $200 R33 GTSt Drive shafts - 5 bolt - $100pair / $50ea R33 GTSt Diff, standard LSD diff, no whines clunks 110% condition - $100 R33 GTSt Assorted suspension arms - $25 each R33 GTSt rear cradle - $100 All in GC from a car with 80,000km and full service history. Prices ono especially for multiple parts. Located in Melbourne, will freight at buyers cost. Cheers, Mat. 0400 558 030

I wired our 180 drift car from scratch. Its really easy if you know basic relay circuits. The ECU control is made up of a few relay circuits and thats it (were running PFC on the std ECU loom). We thought about de-wiring but what a pain in the arse! There are sooo many things to get rid of, and if you cut one wrong thing youll be scratching your head for weeks because you wont understand the nissan loom. Youll spend as much time picking the tape off it as making a whole new loom. I used the old 180 looms for the relays and relay plugs, and used the fuse box to hold the relays, hell, i even used the wire from it. All i bought was a 10 fuse holder from burson. The only paperwork I needed was the ECU pinout, and a ECU wiring diagram, for power, ECCS power circuit, tach and fuel pump run. Well be running electric windows which are easily done as above, google a simple motor forward/reverse switch setup. If you can find a wiring diagram for the wipers thatll be a big help, otherwise just probe it before you remove it, and reuse that part of the loom. Brakes/reverse/headlights are all simple relay circuits as well obviously. There are some pics in our build thread BUT its not finished yet so its not zip tied and conduited so it looks like a head ache but really its not.

Offers considered, would love it gone by xmas

Offers welcome

Bahaha Paul you just wish you could switch your front wheels off and drive like a real man!

yo

you need 2. there ya go matey.

Hi, Wanting to buy a GTR BOV please. Working condition... SMS or PM with price and details. Thanks, Mat. 0400 558 030

Timewasters need not apply. Please ONLY enquire if you are serious and have the money!

THANKS Bec!!!

FOUND