femno

reasonable offers considered

I dont suppose you would have any use for a ER34 PFC? ie Swap?

Im pretty sure thats not the case. The powerfc is labelled R34 for a reason. Still available for sale.

Hi, For sale here is a R33 GTR Rear Cut, midnight purple in colour. Perfect for rear-ender repairs, or for fitting to GTSt. HAS NOT BEEN INVOLVED IN ANY ACCIDENTS, PANELS ARE 100% ORIGINAL, ORIGINAL PAINT, NO RUST. Has full uncut roof, undamaged, with about 100mm of the a-pillars remaining. Has p/s rear guard, undamaged, with broken quarter glass. Has d/s rear guard, undamaged apart from one dent the size of a 5c piece, also a light scrape along the arch, with undamaged quarter glass. Has beaver panel, undamaged with some light surface rust. Has floor, complete and cut up to the centre of the gear shift hole. Does not have any of the subframe or parts, 4wd pump, coilovers, lights, rear glass, boot or bumper. Does have some of the wiring loom and other random bits. $1000 Located in Melbourne's east, can freight at buyers expense. Cheers, Mat.

So when you check the clearances what are you going to be comparing them with??? For example piston to bore clearances...what are you going to use? The recommended CP figures? Figures from the internet? Your boss? The ring end gap also depends on the piston to bore clearance. Assume absolutely nothing and you will have a better chance of the thing holding together.

or the mounts have been cut to fit the 343s under the 17s...these brakes were also sold in a 355 :\

Yo, For sale here is a Apexi PowerFC to suit R34 Skylines, more specifically, the RB25DET NEO engine. Includes FC Commander in great condition. Located in Melbourne, no problems posting. $1300 Cheers, Mat.

Good luck. Its awesome that youre giving it a red hot go! I hope youre machinist is good because your clearances will either make it or break it. Just wondering how you determined the clearances youre using ie piston to bore, ring end gap etc etc? It takes years and years of experimenting with clearances to get a RB to hold together. Take your time, make sure everything is 110% because at the power level of -5s everything has to be spot on.

UPDATE!!!! So, after me being away for 3 months...we worked extra hard yesterday because we were sure it would be ready to hit the button at some stage in the day. I finished off the ECU wiring and power circuits...Campbell worked on the alternator wiring, we got the thermos on the rad and got the vmount back in. We forgot about the idle air feed in the inlet cooler pipe so we had to weld that in after that we fitted the AFM and cooler piping. Campbell used his fancy vacuum bleeder and we filled up the cooling system with no leaks! Bonus! We also chucked some petrol in it! (BIG milestone ) We were ready to start it up, and after repairing our cranking circuit due to a shitty crimp, and fiddling with the fuel pump relay, 2 cranks around and it fired into life!!! IT RUNS!! That was on the stock ECU, just incase anything was going to blow up it wouldve been better the stocker than our PowerFC After turning it straight off we plugged in the PFC, set some values and bang..away it went! Wiring was sweet, ECU turning itself off and saving all of its values We are all very happy about it because its been a long time coming! It runs like shit, as theres no option for the RB25 AFM (so we find out) and we didnt have a timing light. A quick tune and it will be mint Also the turbo wheel is spinning the opposite way to what the front housing points! The front wheel is turning in the correct direction, so we will have to look into that hopefully we didnt buy a dodgy turbo! Next is brakes, diff and shafts, and whatever else it needs to get driving

You flew to Sydney to look at a gearbox? Did I read that right? Did anyone else?

Agreed. If the trend continued then youd need a 5" for 500kw. Yeah right. You can flow plenty through a 3 inch. Real life result: a 25 can push 360kw with a 3540 .86 on 21psi and 98ron with the gate plumbed in through a cheap 3" cat back with just a cannon muffler. Full 3 inch dump and front. It also made a bar @4000rpm. Stock unopened engine. I dont think there is much more gain to be had in that... I dont think the 3540 is too big for street, i think its a fantastic turbo, its the best solution for that kind of power; anything bigger would be a bit frustrating. The car is still going 2 years later at around 330kw every day. ..and as for 3.5" being only a little more expensive, i think not; the mandrels are MUCH more expensive than 3" because theyre harder to make and arent as common.

Still for sale and still in the car.

still looking melbourne please

Sourced cheers anthony ^^^^

Restrictors are only really used with rebuilt engines running higher than standard oil pressure.

Still for sale

SOLD cheers.

You didnt do very well in maths at school right? Double? Lol For example a 90 3" mandrel in ss is 3 times the price of ms. Please post pics of the completed job so we can all drool.

I dont usually suggest ebay but check it out. There are some very competitively priced quality setups around. Depends on application though.

haha loved reading this, plenty of lolz. good work on getting the fine lifted too haha.

Looks/sounds great, shame I'll miss it...

Sounds like the head is going to be over-spec'd for the turbo really. As already said porting and big cams are only really needed for big power, and thats not really the 3582. It's going to make the already average response of the turbo worse on the 2.5. Sure big cams can sound good, and it's awesome to tell your mates you've got a mad port job too, but seriously it's a waste of money. If it was me id be spending the cash on a twin scroll setup, which will actually make the car nicer to drive.

Using forged pistons isn't the solution to having an engine hold together mate. It's about screwing it together properly. Are you forgetting that standard rbs handle 300kw++ all day? They hold together because theyre built well.

Ash can you wire it so it's locked on? That would guarantee smoke.

Ya gotta be good to win