femno

Generally, if youre bolting on a BB turbo to your standard engine :read standard oil pump and pressure / volume: you dont need any restrictor. If you have a rebuilt engine running higher than standard oil pressure, then you need to work out some sort of restrictor.

SOLD

Good price considering some are selling the same thing in 18's with marks and used tyres for the 3.5k mark!

I have only the lines that bolt directly to the core of the turbos and mount off the comp cover. Nothing that bolts to the block. $20 for both.

You mean over night parts from ebay.

This thread is kinda pointless...only because you have almost everyone coming on here and saying ive been running this for 3 years with no worries blah blah blah...sure but under what conditions????....anything will last 3 years on the street... We used that ^ exact just jap manifold on a mates car and it cracked 3 times around where the gate comes off of the manifold...and the gate was braced! On the street yeah sure 'no worries', but on the track after half a day of driving it would crack, not the weld itself, but the material around the weld. Sure the manifold was heavy and wall thickness was decent, but still not enough. The only option was to upgrade to a steampipe manifold. So seriously, if its only going to be used on the street, where you only give it a squirt here and there, cheap shit is fine. If youre even considering tracking it, go steampipe.

Well the weekend was a success wasnt it Timmy! We started Saturday at 9am and finished up at about 9pm, then Sunday was another long one from 11am to 11:40pm! We had the computer print us out some lovely flat patterns of all of the fishmouths, which I think halved the time taken to cut the damn things out. Basically what we did is take each member, cut a slit down the entire pipe, and unroll it into a flat piece. Chuck that on a drawing at 1:1 scale, print it, cut it out, and trace them onto the pipes So we did that for all 13 pipes! Of course we thought about it all and planned how to do it in a way to enable us to have access to the joins to get fit the welder in there! We started with the roof diagonals, cut them and fishy-ed them, tacked them in. Then we removed our rear boxes and dropped the whole front section of the cage down through the holes in the floor to be able to weld ontop of the cage. Once that was done we re-positioned the cage back, installed the side intrusions and then and welded the entire front section and the boxes fully into place for good. We then went about putting the rest of the bars in the front section, the main hoop diagonal and the horizontal bar. The rear was a little more tricky, we had to tack in the lower rears, tack in the upper rears and weld them fully to the lowers, then break the tacks off and fully weld in behind the strut where we couldnt get to. Then fully welded both of those assemblies in and moved onto the strut bar/harness bar. Next was the rear diagonal; the last pipe for the day BUT! we kinda forgot what time it was (night and late), the cops showed up and demanded that we halt production of our Sil80 cage! At that stage it was about 20 minutes to 12am... We were shattered that we were so damn close to finishing it off but oh well....today I finished it off and put that last one in, so its all done. Although I dont have a pic of the rear diagonal in. We enjoyed a hard-earnt beverage at the conclusion of the weekends festivities: Now just to reinforce the A and B Pillars to the side of the cage, give it some prep, and a quick spray inside!! Mat.

> Z32 AFM - $290 > Bosch 040 Intank Fuel Pump - $190

Ok, some prgress, last week I took the car down to Brown Davis again for them to bend us up some roof diagonals, as we wanted them to hug the roof for plenty of headroom. We also bought all of the required material for the rest of the diagonals. So this weekend we will give it a good nudge and try to get most of them in. Also the CAD drawing is tweaked and finished, well be using it to help us do the fishmouths, more on that later. Thanks again to Brown Davis for looking after us, and providing us with the much needed knowledge of cage building! Cheers guys!

www.performancelub.com

$350 delivered to your door. PM me if youre interested. Cheers.

Well hang on... His budget is 10-15k! 15k! Also I dont know about a 33 GTS4 DE being worth 10k. Even if you got 5k for it, spend 15k and buy a 33 GTR for 20k and youre laughing. Its a buyers market atm. A nice clean early model 33 GTR with basic mods is easily achievable for 20k. GTRs are as common as assholes these days

Russell that pics looks really sweet....its like everything in the background is B+W but then you have this bright green monster centre stage! You should start a 'Who owns a FG' thread.

Still for sale

T MINUS ONE MONTH TILL SUPERLAP!!! :D :D

So im guessing, just like your other thread...youre not going to reply to ANY PMs or replies to your thread? I dont know why you bothered opening another thread, it should be closed.

Intake Air Temp Sensor SOLD

This is interesting. So you effectively have a flatline 12psi boost curve? Not taking into account the 17psi spike? 2 problems. You have too much gate preload. Gate preload adjusts the ramp of the boost, not neccessarily the peak boost. Too much and you get a nasty spike. Not enough and it builds boost too slowly. What is the boost controller doing exactly? Is it wound all the way in? Does it give any adjustability? Theres no reason why it wont work. If its wound all the way in and giving the 12psi then the signal line to the controller needs to be restricted. Its simple boost setup really. ...and dont expect a flatline 17-19psi boost curve. Its still a small rear housing.

This turbo isnt a direct bolt on to RB20 and 25s...its the early model VG30 turbo, the dump flange is completely different and the turbo has no water cooling... Hope whoever bought this isnt under the impression its bolt-on.

yeah been a couple of weeks now. prob just a dodgy trader.

Baha some of the stuff on the zed forums is bloody funny to read Yes softer is better as prevously mentioned, and if you have adjustable UCAs, running positive camber is the way to go to account for dynamic camber on squat. I cant wait to put some softer springs in and slide some slicks on, try and hit the 10 bracket

Hey guys, for sale are: > Z32 AFM - $295 Brand New Bosch Z32 Genuine Air Flow Metre, in its original box, never used. Got 2 of these, can arrange a better price for the sale of both in one go. > Bosch 040 Intank Fuel Pump - $195 Brand New Bosch 040 Genuine Intank Fuel Pump, in its original box, sealed plastic bag, never used. Most 'direct fit' pump you can get. No longer going ahead with these mods and thus the reason for the sale. Located in Melbourne, COD or express posting for an additional $10.80. Call or PM. Thanks, Mat. 0400 558 030

gates open at 3-330 and drags start at 6, finishes about 10.

Yes new valve stem seals from Nissan, IN and EX.