femno

90deg Mandrel 3" pipe + 45deg Mandrel 3" pipe = Custom intake pipe that works with the airbox, I made one the other day. A bit of chopping, a 3-4" reducer and a 3" sleeve. Just chop the ends off the bov recirc and rocker breather pipes, weld them onto the intake pipe and join with rubber.

= Absolute crock of shit! ... You wont get much change out of 5k to throw a 25 into your car, by the time you buy the engine (dont buy a block you need the whole engine), have the loom made, and by the sounds of what youre typing you'll need to have someone install it for you (big cost). You can leave the 20 box in there it will take a STOCK 25 no dramas in terms of strength if you dont abuse it. You can use existing clutch and fly even. The massive increase in low-end torque and overall power, the potential for awesome power later down the track sets the 25 miles ahead of the 20. In my opinion if you save some more and go the 25 you definately wont regret it, the 20 is a lazy POS engine that isnt easy to extract decent power from, but it depends what you want. If youre happy with 200kw then stay with the 20. Spend a whole day searching! There are shitloads of threads exactly the same as this where all these questions are answered!

Upgrade to these! Any offers!

Hi guys, It would be much appreciated if I could please have this VIN fasted: HCR32289283 Also how to tell if this is a special model? It has a couple of small additions that point towards a special model of some sort. Thanks alot in advance! Cheers!

nice pump

The new place is called Osaka Imports, its the same guys from Oakleigh Mechanical. Its the street on the left after Lewis road on the left hand side if coming from city direction, cant remember what the street is called.

Hey bud just a quick question, what tyres have you used there front and rear? Width and profiles. Cheers.

Whether or not you can 'justify' a 20k build no one really cares, nor if it overcomes the value of your car or not. The point is its piss easy to spend 20k having your engine rebuilt, turbos and fuel system and all supporting mods supplied and installed, tuned etc etc etc. Ok yeah maybe some people like Dirt laugh at a 20k build for an engine, but seriously to have to this work done by someone for 20k isnt that funny. Dirt did you install the engine yourself? I think the labour costs are being forgotten about here. Im guessing GTAAH, youre having the work done by a shop or someone?

Give Dan a call on 0422 357 635 I can vouch its a healthy motor 100% mechanically good removed only for a rb25. Im East Melb too. Cheers.

Is the Nardi used? Are you sure its a 330 and not 350? It looks big. Ill give you 200 for it. PM me if interested.

All parts SOLD cheers.

Mate where is my catch can?! Its been like 4 months since I paid for it with nothing but lies since the day the funds cleared! You need to refund my money! PM sent!

They fit all R32s and 300ZX man.

Ok, put me down as well for a RACE version, as soon as these are ready for purchase I will deposit the money! Cheers!

Im surprised you guys havent been shut down for business trading in the FS section. You need to pay to sell if youre a business making money off of SAU, you should contact a mod.

AVS Model 5s are absolutely terrible for brake clearance! I have Alcon 355s and Drifteks 17 x 9.5 are the only wheels that fit over them, although I now have a set of TEs that I havent tried yet. All 17s of course.

Pump is SOLD pending payment. Thanks guys.

Id be interested in knowing what turbo you are running for 178kw @ 8psi, and either 50 or 100hp shot of NOS. Cheers.

Anyone had a front end accident? I still got this. Cheers.

Offers welcome

Well I think your conclusions about why the mesh is there is a big crock of shit! Youre reading waaayyy too far into the purpose of said mesh. Think about it...the afm is a uniformly circular unit which is fed by a circular tube from...let me guess...a circular pod filter?? What uneven airflow? Im sure the current state of the mesh is having a placebo effect on your fuel consumption and idle etc. The mesh is there so 'morons' dont put their fingers in there and upset the sensor itself. Yeah its that simple.

Stay away from the JJR hubs! They break! I wouldnt touch them with a 10ft pole...and you want to run semis on them! NO WAY!! It depends how picky you want to be with rims...there are plenty of 4 stud rims around in decent widths and offsets. GMAX, Koya etc etc. IMO its easier to go 5 stud and then throw on some GTR offset rims ie 32,3 GTR wheels which are plentiful. You need: S14,5 front hubs and knuckles S14,5,R33 LCAs, OR retain your S13 LCA and fit a S14,5 or R33 ball joint S14,5,R32,3 rear hub assemblies with handbrake cables, upgrade to drum handbrake while youre at it too, use R32,3 rear discs Its a fair list but all the parts can be had for way less than 800 if youre cunning about it. Its all boltup and you can do it yourself, the only thing you need to mod are the coilovers. Then while youre at it throw in a complete R33 brake system for insane braking power.

Hey guys, As topic states, im after ONE (preferably) or a PAIR of TE37 rims 17 x 9.0 +22. Any colour, any condition, any location. Please PM me. Cheers, Mat.

Reservoir SOLD The pump is still available!

Ive got one, mint condition, how much you want to pay for it? PM me cheers.