femno

Exactly, the 02 sensors only work when cruising...youll get shit fuel economy but it wont hurt anything. Although it could be undesirable for bedding in rings etc.

FYI that offset is NOT good for widebodys, nor is it good for GTRs, anything around +20 is GTR offset depending on width of the rim.

16KG????? Is that even possible??? Those springs looks pretty thick....what an amazing car!

AH Good stuff. Cheers.

Yes it works fine up to about 300kw. Lowmount or not, if the coppers see that big shiny aftermarket-looking manifold they will do you for it anyway. You cant find any info on these because no-one bothers.

Very excited for this weekend! I havent ever been to a Drift event where someone I know is driving - ie having a ride in a car! Russell I cant wait to come for a ride! Im sure this weekend will give us the motivation to get our drift car up and running...its been too long. With Roll-cages, how far in drift do you need to go before you need a CAMS approved unit? We are planning on making a cage ourselves..it will be close to CAMS spec but will be crush-bent...I know it will never be able to be approved but im curious. Are CAMS approved cages needed for the Championship days at Winton?

Haha no ECU? No wonder the tunes were so cheap, they didnt even touch the ECU! You really should have mentioned this before posting them as 'tunes'. Tool.

1200 is pretty pricey if you ask me. It would have to be a bloody good exhaust at that price. Considering you can get a brand new jap branded exhaust for around $1000. If not second hand for $300-600 depending on what it is.

What kinda SR stuff?

Another update, weve been doing a little bit on our trailer over the weekend, the final prep is very tedious and frustrating, cleaning all of the old paint and rust off. We bought a new set of guards which werent too expensive, we reinforced the outer egde so they can take us 80-110kg guys jumping on and off of them. The guards were fitted ontop of the side rails as we needed a little extra clearance for the tyres. We also fitted the 50x50mm tube for the front rail uprights, plus the extra second set for the wheel rack, which is 40x40mm and removable. We also re-fitted the spare wheel holder, and made up the jerry can holder. We thought 2 cans are enough for the moment and if we need more we'll put one in front of each guard later on. We bought some hinges and other stuff to make up the swining number plate which will also keep the second set of ramps from sliding out. Now just to keep cleaning off the old paint from the checkplate and rails, then well give it a quick spray job

Nobody here can tell you what head gasket to use...it depends if the block has been decked and how much, head been has been ground and how much, what sort of pistons etc etc...everything to do with the coompression ratio. The person who is building the engine will be able to tell you...you could use a standard Nissan gasket if you wanted to be really safe. Id go the gasket set from MD Spares. It is actually a genuine Nissan kit but without any Nissan markings on it and therefore much less $$. Use everything except the inlet gaskets. In their place just use Threebond, as the paper gaskets will blow out under high boost. Just make sure all surfaces are clean, do not machine any surfaces as it will create big dramas, just clean very carefully with a scraper.

Well when you think about it, despite putting more fuel in, and taking timing out just before the rev limit, you still have no fuel going into the engine at the rev limit. Thats if you were to attempt this R&R function using just the PFC. The BeeR rev limiter isnt much better for the engine either, causing excess wear and turbos and so on, through mass explosions from cold fuel hitting extremely hot parts. So you cant really win. And yes the oil pump will probably go before the pistons or rings do. I wouldnt bother.

Man those rims are farken off tap! Nice, clean looking car mate.

But they have Holden badges yes or no? Not all Rodeos are Isuzus.

Last time I checked, Rodeos were made by Holden! They dont just make bommodores y'know A young dude (P-Plater) who works with me has his Rodeo tricked out with 'Stacks'. He said it cost him just under 2 grand to have them installed. I lol'd. Ill get a pic next time I see it.

Ummm...I dont understand how the problem is most likely in the Mines ECU????? The tune on the ECU has absolutely nothing to do with the way the boost behaves in regards to max/min boost. The excess fuel could be caused by a boost leak yes, that could also just be the tune. What you do is: Disconnet the line that goes to the bottom fitting of the solonoid (one that comes from the rear underneath of the collector and Ts into the actuator circuit on your schematic), and put a bolt or something in it. This will give you full actuation (lowest boost). If you still have overboosting, its either the pressure source (split hose) or a faulty actuator or 2. You can test the actuator by blowing into the front of it, you shouldnt be able to blow air into it. If you no longer have overboosting, the solonoid is bung, and they do pack up sometimes.

Wasnt comparing was just looking at it from 2 different perspectives, between RB and SR. The SR is a better comparison for the reason you stated. The 2871 will blow your budget, as it is usually had for around the 1300 mark. You may be VERY lucky and find one for a grand or less. Its worth spending the money on it as it is the heart of your conversion and is the part that will yield results, or not.

So where does the hose go into the back of the PowerFC?

Well considering you engine is .1:1 off from a RB25 (9.5:1) id say that turbo is ok, but you should run more boost to make the most of it. You could also say you have an SR20 thats been stroked to 2.5...in that sense id maybe use a Garrett 2871r with a .86 rear housing or even a .64 for insane midrange, that would be the ultimate in my opinion. That would give awesome response being BB with great power overall. Once again alot of potential for big power with more boost. How are pistons, rods and headgaskets strength-wise in the xtrail?? Being a turbo-level comp ratio id run more boost. Say 10psi - not far from factory standard of RBs and SRs. Considering standard nissan RBs and SRs can run 20 comfortably, halving it for your non-turbo factory engine seems very safe. Have faith in Nissan engines!!

Well if youre considering buying the car not-running, then im guessing the troubles of not having the car to get around in wouldnt apply to you. This could be a good start to the world of GTR ownership...I did exactly what youre thinking of doing about 4 years ago, bought my car with engine in a million pieces, thought it would be cheap to fix it up myself and have a great car. At the end of it, 18k and a year later I had a built gtr with an immac paintjob and it drove perfectly, I was lucky though. And did all of the work myself apart from applying the paint and machining the engine, if i didnt do it myself it would have been a hell of alot more! What everyone is trying to say is that rebuilds wont cost just 4.5-6k, theyre more along the lines of 10-15k+, and thats speaking from people who have actually done it, such as myself (second engine). Have you read the thread of the 25/30 build that went from 16k? to 22k?. lol. Same principle. So dont get a fright when a 4.5k rebuild turns into a 10-15k rebuild like we all said. As stated it depends what you intend to do with the car. What is your power goal??? Street?? Occasional track use?? Frequent track use?? If you want to run say 250-300kw then maybe just buy a running example...and mod that. Even if you bought this and threw a s/h motor in, its still gonna cost you a fair bit to change it over, with added headaches of possible dodgy second hand motors...it could get real ugly. If you want say 350kw odd, a built engine is preferable, so buy this, rebuild it properly, and be done with it. Since you know not-much about GTRs, buy the car, tow it straight to Racepace, have 10-15k ready in your pocket, talk to Ben, pick the car up in a few weeks and enjoy a non-problematic GTR (fingers crossed), with an engine you know wont break a week after you pick it up. It all depends on how adventurous you are!!! Just my recommendation.

Its one of my mates cars, it has 16" Advan Tri-Spoke rims, a half cage and a small front mount. Car was stolen from Clifton Hill yesterday.

Its one of my mates cars, it has 16" Advan Tri-Spoke rims, a half cage and a small front mount.

Dano man this would be better in the Stagea Parts Classifieds. Up the top of this section.

Bastards! Black 180SX Stolen, rego TOH315. Please call 0422 754 197 if you see this car. More info coming. Cheers.

Cool. Nice car. But for $20,000 youd be better off parting it out.