femno

I dont see whats so bad about buying a car with a blown engine? Fair enough it may have been thrashed already, but 50% of that will be taken care of with a rebuild. Yes you will be infront $$ wise bigtime. The other 50% wear and tear is in the gearbox, diffs, wheel bearings and everything else that moves and that has taken the thrashing. Thats if it even has been thrashed..maybe the owner decided to wind up 20psi one night then BANG...maybe he babied it all other times..maybe not...who knows. Its a bit of a toss up...I bought my GTR for 5,000 and it turned out to be an immaculate example drivetrain-wise. You could buy similar, or it could be a complete piece of shit. Make your decision based on the condition of the interior, engine bay cleanliness and general condition of the car. I say go for it. 14k isnt too much, try and bargain him as much as you can to get further infront. edit: 6k for a rebuild is a joke. Try 10-15k+. If you dont get it done by professionals in RB26s then you will have troubles for the rest of your life. I found out the hard way...second engine!

LOL @ people trying to sell stuff for big $$ when they dont even know what it is LOL

Which loom is it exactly? What model car is it from?

Awesome Chris! Its good to see after soo many years you are finally getting it all done! You must be really enjoying the build after so much collecting and spending!!! Looks really good so far! Well done! p.s pics of brakes coming, I havent fitted the rears yet, will do so in a month or so.

Yes indeed!! Car looks tough AND mint Russell!!

- PM Sent.

Yeah its a bastard to do, I have the same kit with Turbosmart 3" Sleeves haha. Just use a flatblade screwdriver, you shouldnt need to use the sharp end of it though. I use a bit of vaseline to help slide it on as well. I would put the bottom part of the pipe on first, dont clamp it, push it as far on as it will go, then at the top, push the pipe where it needs to go and get the back of the sleeve where it needs to go on the plenum (hardest part). Then once thats on dont let it slip forward and work the front around with the screwdriver. Very hard to explain, youll get it eventually.

Yes that S14 looks insanely clean...dunno bout the multi-colour wheel styling though... Theres some nice clean shots in there guys...good work!!

I also know why your oil is taking ages to drain to the front of the sump. When you install Tomei baffles, you need to remove the P/S driveshaft from the sump, and drill out the 5 or so small holes between the front/rear wall. You can see them in the picture above. From factory they are there to stop oil drianing to the back of the sump during acceleration. You need to drill these to about 5-6mm to allow the oil to drain from the back to the front where the Tomei baffles are. Im guessing this may not have been done when the baffles were installed.

No... It actually is an Inline 6 twin turbo.

Kebab Box in Campbellfield was pretty good. The place is EXTREMELY clean, like a top notch restaurant clean. Impressive. The kebab itself was pretty good, not very hot though, pretty tasty, but not as tasty as Ali's. Attempt to find kebab better than Ali's failed

When I had my other GTR I daily drove it, had a quiet 3 inch system on it, standard springs and shocks, brand new 02 senors (critical for good economy with stadard ECU) and that was about it. All standard apart from that. It got like 450km to a tank daily driving to and from work in stop/start traffic which I thought was fantastic! Now if I drive my current GTR to work I get sick of it by about Thursday...straight thru dual exhaust, HKS twin plate, tightly shimmed diff, gearbox with hopeless 1st gear synchro lol, BUT, 360kw It all depends on how much you can put up with. Close to standard id say no worries if you start with a nice and clean example.

Yeah it fits but you also need to change the ECU and ECU loom and a couple of other bits and pieces. Its all pretty much bolt up though. I dont how you would still get fined for something you dont have????? If you tell Vicroads you have replaced the engine, and supply them with the N/A engine number, then the car should automatically be listed as a N/A. ...this N/A thing is really crazy...next thing we know N/A's with cams and head work will be selling for more than 32 GTR's!!!!

Ok well me and all the boys LOVE Alis, we think its the best ever, weve been to alot of kebab joints and we cant go past Alis. But one of the boys went to a place in Campbellfield the other night, I think he said it was 'Kebab Box', he said its better than Alis!! I was like faarrkken bullshit! So were going to see Terminator later tonite and then venture over to Campbellfield after. Anyone know of this 'Kebab Box'? Anyone been? Will let you guys know how it goes...

LOL its not that much of a stupid question....its been done HAHA.

very very true.

haha glad you cleared it up. lesson for next time: keep oil and water systems clean and foreign objects away from them!

Youll be fine with the standard AFMs at 300-320. Who is tuning it? Take it to Ben and he will tune it to 320 with standard AFMs. My car made 326 with the standard AFMs and PFC.

Does the plug look broken or melted? We need to see a pic of the plug itself, you have a fairly serious problem!

Hmph, thats pretty useless information from Just Jap, Id have expected better than that from those guys. What exactly doesnt line up? Bolt holes? Locating pin? Pic?

Should not be who is the best tuner...more along the lines of who are the best tuners in Australia.

1000Nm!!!!!!! Fry tyres in fifth!!!!

Well thats my opinion, if you think its crap, f**k off. Who are you to say my advice is crap? Everyone is entitled to have their own opinion, and at the end of the day its this guys decision. The PowerFC can have cold start set-up as good as factory. Why would you need self-diagnostic mode if the PowerFC highlights voltage parameters that are out of range in the Sensor Check through the Hand Controller? If its tuned properly, you shouldnt need auto timing retard if you are consistent in using good quality petrol. Admittedly its a good feature to have but not a must. There are more people using Nistune than PowerFC so that says something. Not saying Nistune is no-good but the PowerFC must be decent. I have no knock sensors. 2 years, 12,000kms so far and 360kw, racing and 8,500rpm gear changes and everything is perfect. Why have the computer compensate for poor tuning, reducing power? The Hand Controller is also handy to watch things like water temp, intake temp, knock readings and anything else if you like. ---- Second hand ECU yes, just make sure it works. GKTECH arent the brand of cam gears, they are the sellers. Ive used them myself and are good quality. Yes second hand factory dumps. Get your turbos from Croydon Racing Developments, or horsepower in a box. Theyre most competitive, give CRD a call, theyre great to deal with, they managed to source my turbos when the turbo drought was on. What you want are the 2560-7 or 2860-7. Theyre the same, 2860s are just the new models as far as I know. If you want to make 350-380kw get the 2860-5 model, but that will stress the engine more. If youre going to track it and drag it then id cap it at 300. You could be lucky and find a second hand set of drop-in injectors $700-800. If not around $1-1100 new.

oOoOo V-Cam This is going to be a response-monster! Gonna be like a V8....

Yeah RB20 one will be the same. I have no idea whether E or (-) is the trigger (my guess would be (E)), but one of those should run to one of the wires at the front side of the ignitor. So just go through all 12 combinations with everything disconnected. If you dont have continuity through one of the wires then theres a prob with the loom. If you do have continuity its either the ignitor, ECU loom, or ECU.