femno

He asked for all of our opinions. No? Were not stopping him from doing anything. These are our opinions. - So have you made a decision yet?

Anyone got shit stainless dumps that need replacing? Buy these!

oooo fark me, your lucky you didnt do some real damage running it at 14 under full boost high revs! You should have stopped as soon as it hit 14!!!!!

$2500 for GTS offset 17s with rash all round :bunny:

Haha he actually means a 2530 turbocharger, not 3 litre with 25 head lol. I wouldnt pissfart around with a 2860 with adaptors then maybe different lines (im not sure about the lines) Im pretty sure the dump pattern is different too. The adaptors are around $200 anyway, and would look shit. Theres 1100 already, plus custom dump, blah blah.... GO highflow. Looks stock, fits stock, least stuffing around, will make the power your are chasing. Theyre around $1300-1400 mark?

What are you on about? Looks right to me. Connected to the top port. Havent ever seen a dual ported internal actuator but it looks like it should be connected that way, by way of daiphram functions. It pushes to open the gate flap. Second (lower) port could be to add more boost, similar to the way an external gate works. Dont worry about it though. What is your boost set at? Boost controller? ECU? Not much looks standard there...changed plugs lately? Tried changing coilpacks?

What makes you think theyre staggered? Its a GTR, they should all be the same. I have 18x10+22 on my 32 GTR and theyre fine. 285/35 tyres. Its pretty low too. No rubbing. I think with the less width youll be right. All depends on your tyres, ride height and camber too. You might want to run a 265 or even 245 with a low profile to get the clearance.

Yeah everyone has it. Although I thought it was mostly on 32-33 PFCs. Theres a thread on it, it has about 1,000,000 replies with people who have this problem. Just one of those things you have to live with.

I have a Ross balancer, no dramas at all. Check A/C and P/S pump and idler bearings...I had my alt rebuilt and it caused a squeal...they used some wrong bearings that added load to the shaft, and therefore the belt couldnt cope. Got them to do it again then it was fine. I dont see why the A/C would even squeal...it has absolutely NO load on that belt, unless its on because your tuner is getting hot inside the car while tuning lol. It must be something silly.

Theres no such thing as bolt on!

How is your boost curve? Does it hit eg 14psi then slowly ramp up to eg 20psi, or does it bang up to eg 20psi and hold all the way until redline. You really need to know this first before anything else.

...ANYWAYS... What engine is it? Standard ECU? High idle usually means an air leak. The stalling after revving will most likely be the BOV. If you rev it less does it still stall, or does it run really shit with black smoke out the zorst?

'let a freind drive it' The killer of almost all skylines...

Considering its a STAGEA and not a skyline thats even funnier

Well considering we are talking about a turbocharger, air under pressure shouldnt harm it as that is the primary function of the component. No? My point was air isnt an abrasive, and considering the turbo is a component build for pressure, why would there be any damage?

Defi gauges read kg/cm^2 yeah? When cold and a little bit of revving it hits just under 10, shown by peak hold option. On hot idle its a touch above 2. Built engine, 10w60 Castrol Edge Sport as directed by top notch engine builder. No dramas! I wouldnt stress considering you know nothing about the motor. You cannot compare anyone elses motor to yours. Unless yours was nissan standard. Nor can anybody quote a figure from a factory guage!!!!

Have you checked the fuel filter????? Afrs should be well under 12 standard.

Hmm I have no BOV...been running around 20 psi for about 10,000kms now, I dont think its gonna hurt anything, after all it is just air, I dont see how it could break stuff.

Just Jap Stealth FMIC Kit. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=339&page=1

MUST DO: Flush your brake system with a decent brake fluid like Motul RBF600 (I think thats the number). You WILL get brake fade after a few laps with just regular fluid. Its more important than anything else, cause when youre coming into a corner and theres no brakes, fresh oil and a wheel alignment wont stop you from hitting a wall

Can you drive? A silly mistake can put the car into a wall and then its all over! You would want to have years and years of racing experience before taking out a car like this, when youre on the edge theres not much room for error if you know what I mean. Its an expensive car to race with! A silly idea i think, just for the sake of 3 letters when people ask what car you have.

I did the exact same thing you guys are doing, Just Jap dumps with long splits. I also spent hours making sure there wasnt going to be any leaks. It paid off. I had NO leaks on idle or while revving and they sound absolutely nuts. I started a thread on it, its title is Custom Long Split Dumps or something of the like, its in this section. Im now removing them. I have boost creep due to my super-high flwoing HKS dual exhaust, the gasses would rather exit via the turbine rather than the gate...but they worked fine with my 3.5 single, had no creep whatsoever.

No problem. I have the same thing. I was copping a bit of boost spike in 1st gear and this eliminated it. Shorter signal lines are always better. Less volume of line to fill before the actuator actually opens.

Youre all forgetting its a standard engine? Why would you need restrictors with a standard oil pump? You dont have any extra flow or pressure...nor will the standard pump empty the sump as quickly as an aftermarket pump would so why limit supply to the head?

Anyone else? Just found that BBS LMs dont fit either.