femno

No. It will only say RB25, not RB25DET. Check for turbo oil and water supply outlets as stated.

Also, the search button actually works, this question has been asked many a time.

I will freight them for you? At $50+ freight still a steal. I have a mate wrecking a 33 GTSt, what do you need from the rear? Just hubs or uprights as well? Can freight all together. PM me.

PM 'DFAULT' on here, he has a RB20 one (same thing) also in melb.

I did this on the weekend. you need the 25 hoses to connect to the motor, then as said, use joiners to join them the smaller 20 ones. good luck with the wiring! Its a pig!

Why do you keep comparing your setup to other setups? With such a high CR how can you? It is directly related to knocking issues, saying this car runs X amount timing up top and yours is less is no comparison. And no knock detection? Standing by the car doesnt cut it! With exhaust noise, gate noise, spool noise, how would you hear anything at all? Why would you run 2 different pumps and Y-Piece them together?! I had my first engine built but a guy who did mostly V8's. It lasted 8,000kms.

Thats actually a push type clutch.

Spotted a red R35 GTR Yesterday arvo! Finally seen one on the road... Had plate GDZILR and was driving down springy road at about 530. Anybody else getting sick of seeing the 'Godzilla' tag on almost every GTR these days?

yob fest 2009?

Not to mention the tinters for MNP2 and MNP3 are over $800 PER LITRE! and you need a few litres as they make up most of the paint! Plus you would need to spend thousands and thousands getting the car straight otherwise it would look shit being the paint it is with the harlequin etc. Dent the car once, it will stick out like dogs balls, repaint the whole side of the car to match the colour!

It was probably the same cops that hit and killed a young girl mid last week while attempting to pursue a VL after drag racing. None of this stuff hits the news...I wonder why...

Why on earth would you want to do it?

Wow! Props to you for giving this a shot!! Since youre running a 26/30, why not transplant the entire GTR ECU and Body looms, along with all of the ATTESA gear into your 4 door? The only thing that would be different would be the wiring for the doors, but im guessing thats no issue being a track car. That was would a piss easy way of doing it. No mods needed. Wiring is always a headache otherwise.

Headgasket, or cracked block or cracked head. For what its worth maybe find another motor.

Hey man I have 33 GTR dumps if you need, in melb as well remember? Drop me a PM or call 0400 558 030. Cheers mate, Mat.

Hey bud ive got a set of 33 GTR dumps, theyre pretty much as good as 34 ones. The mouth on the 33 dumps is actually slightly bigger and more open, but the transition from the flange to the pipe is better on the 34. Drop me a PM if you want the 33 ones.

As topic states fellas, Standard R33 GTR Dump Pipes. Still fitted with heat shields. Fantastic upgrade from R32 GTR Dumps, and better flowing than cheap aftermarket stainless rubbish! Asking back what I paid, $120. Located Melbs. Cheers, Mat. 0400 558 030

ummm I still have this condensor!

New as in new to you or new as in new out of the box? BB turbos will always have some play, once they have some oil in them theyll be fine. If when you push the wheel to one side, it contacts the housing and cannot spin then the turbo is pretty farked.

Vacuum isnt in psi, its Hg. (Inches). You probably have an airleak somewhere if you have only 6 odd. Do you have aftermarket management? Because youve just slapped on a huge throttle body, and the plenum runners are much shorter, the standard ECU wont be able to cope, and will most likely give you a nice and heavy flatspot (which is what youre describing) due to the increase of air volume from the bigger TB.

Anyone?

What about the huge flat spot on the bottom left rim? I think that would effect performance.

Could you please email pics of Enkeis to [email protected] Thanks!

Cleaning out the garage this long weekend! Last chance to grab some spares...

Oh well...this is what happens when you follow too closely... The headlight looks fine but the mounts will be broken...its useless. The bar looks pretty badly damaged, it will probably cost you just as much if not more to repair it as getting another s/h one. In Clayton theres a place called A1 Bumpers or something like that, they do good plastic welding. Usually in an accident if the situation has caught you off guard and you just slam the pedal instead of squeezing, there will be no weight transfer and the fronts will just lock.