femno

Cheers Sean for the info! See they are good pads! Install these for Superlap and cut faster times!

Cheers all for the help. The AVC-R is a good unit, we were able to obtain a dead flat horizontal boost pressure with one of these boost controllers on a 3071R equipped SR (pretty hard hitting turbo), so hopefully, we can achieve the same on the RB20 with a good combo of preload and AVC-R settings. Will let you all know how we go with it.

sold.

WOW...really jealous you saw the Winfield GTR Matt! Been wanting to see that car in the flesh for a while now.. I was planning to go down but we didnt...kinda wishing we shouldve...oh well next year! Cheers for sharing!

Anyone?

Dont use normal VAC line, because its for VAC (name says it all) it can split under high boost, its happened to me before twice. Turbosmart make good silicon hose, 4 and 6mm, find a dealer, ET Performance have it, comes in blue and black so youre set.

Haha yeah I drove mine half an hour to get it tuned after I first started it, the next day I picked it up with full power figure of 326! Its all in the build!

From what I remember its around 6000, dont quote me though. If you have adjustable cam gears then you should able to dial up the cams so as they bring the power on quicker, make the most of the cams you have.

Exhaust consists of a Long split front/dump, so long it joins at the cat, straight from japan, ultra-flow cat, and super dragger with resonator replaced for pipe. Intake is a brand new PWR cooler, Apexi suction kit suit z32. So i think all of that should be fine.

Yeah my engine used to use oil when it was new, its all good now, its expected that a new engine will use some oil at least. Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 (I think) is very good oil.

Ah well thats what I wanted to hear, after power peaks fairly early, its like someone switches the power off lol, the more you rev the less it pulls!

The actuator is adjusted to give 1.4, what I mean is that the signal hose is connected directly from the comp cover to the actuator with nothing in-line. With this setup we still have the boost dropping.

I highly doubt they want want Vin Diesel and Paul Walker riding in a car with purple stars all over it. They need something thats CRAZY, similar to the form seen on FNF, stickers all over, vinyls, neons, big wheels, LOUD exhaust, LOUD BOV etc. I vote #1 Matts 34 GTT, thats the closest thing. Second would be Snowmans or Aaron34s 34 GTRs. Third would be anyones car that has a NITROUS PURGE jetting out the bonnet lol. Even an off-tap D1 car or something, id go on NS and find a nice 200 or something with heaps of stickers etc.

What about CHEAP and RELIABLE? Theres a loophole in the rule!!!

Hey guys, Got a quick question. We were on the dyno the other night with my mates 32, we upped the boost from 1.1bar (strong, flatline 1.1 with no dropoff) to 1.4bar had a nice increase in torque and power (around 220kw) but, after boost ramps up nicely to 1.4, it slowly drops all the way to 1.1 by redline. Its as if the turbo is running out of puff. Currently running a HKS 2530 63T with 0.64 housing, Tomei 260 cams (timing unknown at this point, but EX looks to be retarded for nice midrange judging by the CAS), HKS Adjustable actuator adjusted to achieve 1.4 bar with no bleed off, PowerFC. We previously had a mech bleed valve with actautor set to 1bar, did the same thing. After viewing plenty of RB20 dyno sheets it seems common that people have boost drop across the revrange, so im betting on an EBC but just thought id get some input cos theyre not exactly cheap. Must we run a EBC to control the boost? Im doubting it but could it be the cam timing affecting the boost so dramatically? Should we '0' the cams? Theyre the only other thing untouched. Cheers! Mat.

We used one of the Just Jap 50mm gates on an SR20 with a 3071R 0.63. Holds boost mint together with e AVC-R, havent had any dramas so far, been running for bout 6 months.

Chad is in VIC. You give no description at all. Whats the condition overall? How many kms? How are the synchros? Any whining noises? Any oil leaks?

Are the items in the last picture what youre actually selling? They look far from brand new.

Still got em

Its not a good idea to tune with 02 sensor feedback on, as it will always give you varied results and the ECU will be constantly correcting etc, its nasty, if you know how to tune, you can get good economy and smooth cruise without closed loop.

I reckon they are beautiful looking wheels for cruising the streets. Too bad they would would never fit on a 32 without a further widebody! GL with the sale.

Is it just me or are there currently 3 sets of these exact wheels for sale?

300kw with reliability from an SR Ash, we all know thats going to be pretty street un-friendly, track un-friendly and pocket draining. Why would you want more than 300 anyway? In a pissy little Silvia its heaps of power. Especially for drift if thats what you mean about track days. A Standard RB25 with cams and a 3071R would be plenty. You dont need a huge peak figure, midrange is what you want for street and drift. Be a man and go the conversion, maybe consider an Engineers Certificate, if you dont have the money prepare for the car to be taken off the road.

Its pointless. A waste of money. It will be lag city like no tomorrow. Youd be better off going RB25. But if you want to do it, then do it. 2.2 Bar on a stock bottom end...you can try it, but dont expect it to last more than a couple of dyno runs! Ive heard of someone running 2.0 Bar through an SR20. Its crazy!

The mining and minerals market has slowed down, we deal in raw materials handling, chain conveyors, bucket elevators etc, we have customers all over aus and some OS, we have shit all new capital projects and spare parts are slowly ticking over. We've heard alot of plant projects canned due to lack of funding, that means no machines need to be deisgned and built...no one wants to spend money! Its all no worries really...less work to do means more time on SAU!