femno

Let us know how you go with it Matt, we needa to do this in our Sil80, will be good to see how you go with it, where you get it from, price, how much you used, how you got the deadening off etc.

Ive heard drive-ins are bad news for low cars? I havent been but is this true?

Bilsteins SOLD AVS Rims SOLD

Yeah standard ECUs suck balls for economy. Id be intersted to see this goes on a built engine...say one already running 21-22psi. I wouldnt want to push anymore boost into it but maybe some more timing if E85 permits. It reckon it would be cool to have a E85 tune to the magic 400 just for dyno nights and things like that...

Putting the scope down the plug hole aint gonna so much, all youre gonna see is carbon. I dont know about 25s, but I know 26s have the baffle plates bolted to the bottom of the cradle, you wouldnt be able to see through those either going through the sump. With no proof, id argue its standard and he trying to have you on. ..or you could put the boost to 2 bar and see if it cracks a ring land or not haha.

I have -5s, HKS hard pipe kit + Drag Cooler, standard exhaust and inlet manifolds, 20psi, NO BOV, NO SHUFFLE. Many people have recently had this problem, its related to the turbo intakes, BOVs, and a few other things I cant remember. Id be looking at your inlet. Its the only thing different.

Rotors SOLD Subwoofer Mate SOLD Bilsteins SOLD Pending Payment

I need the 2 HICAS hard metal pipes that run from the front of the car to the rack at the back underneath. Theyre are about 10mm in diameter. Please PM me with price and time, maybe sometime next week? Im in the east side as well so can pick up. Cheers.

Congrats on the purchase. If you have a look in the RB26 Upgrade thread, almost all of your answers will be answered in there. Best place to start. If it has all the N1 gear inc N1 turbos, thats a big bonus as they will be fitted with steel turbine wheels which enables you to run high boost without them exloding, like the regular ceramic turbines do. Youd be able to nudge 300kw with all the right mods and keep it stock-looking without doing turbos. A powerfc is the easiest, cost effective and most popular option.

Yes. The RHS rocker is connected to the turbo inlet, the LHS to the PCV. The 2 rockers are connected together.

Yep still got everything that hasnt been listed as sold. SO yep got the wiper assembly, power steering pump is non-hicas, alternator still got it. Drop me a PM or give me a call if you want them. Cheers.

BOV? WHAT? HAHA id like to see you connect your breather to the intercooler pipe and see what happens lol. Either connect it to the inlet of the turbo, or connect it to a catch can then the inlet of the turbo. Connecting directly to the inlet of the turbo means oil build-up in your comp housing and cooler pipes at a rate depending on the health of your engine. A catch can is ideal, it will catch the oil from the air, preventing oil build up. If youre unsure use the SEARCH button.

How do you know your missing spark? Changed the leads? What leads? Coilpack loom? Did you put iridiums or some overpriced long-life plug in? They wont last any longer or perform any better in an other-than-stock engine. Have you taken the coilpacks and plugs out one by one, put the plug back into the coilpack and rested the housing of the plug on the rocker cover to see if theres spark? (weak or strong) If you find one with no spark, swap the plug, still no spark swap the coilpack, still no spark swap the coilpack loom, still no spark sway the ignitor, still no spark youve got problems.

Also URAS NS-01 LMGT4 TE37 Im pretty sure these rims will fit so let me know if you have these!

PM Antimatter, he has Apexi Twin setup. Steve is a trustworthy Melb seller, ive dealt with him many times before.

I have the R33 GTSt front uprights, includes upper control arms, hubs, studs etc, perfect working order. $50 for both! PM me. Willing to post.

Did you put them on the right way? Theyre front and rear, short one goes at the front to miss the front driveshaft...

Very good price. Cant wait to see pics.

femno is correct also

Yeah it would be a custom job for sure. Try Racebrakes, theyre here in melb, they can probably help, you would need to identify the model number or serial and the caliper though. Also, what size/model discs did you use on the rear with them?

Ive replaced a couple in a 32 GTSt, they come out without having to take the hub off front and rear. Beware: Front and rear studs are different. Why would you buy anything other than a nissan stud? Would be silly not to IMO....

300 to install cam gears?! You dont even have to take the belt off, just the CAS and top cover, slip them in while holding the belt...its not hard. At the end of the day, if the driveability is as good as, or better than, a factory ECU, is responsive, economical, has no hiccups or flat spots and makes target power for the setup then its a good tune.

^^ Yeah cause overfilling the oil means it will go into the combustion chamber...you know less than he does you fool. Seriously, you needa be more careful from now on dude, or just have someone who knows what theyre doing work on your car instead.

Back in the day when I had my first tune done, full PFC tune from scratch, boost set, cam gears dialled, from one of the best GTR tuners in OZ. Was $800. And its perfect. My cam gears were already installed but thats seriously a 30min job. I reckon $1200 is overpriced.

Could you possibly find out exactly what the offset and widths are? What brand/model tyres? What size tyres? Could you remove a wheel and photo where the offset is stamped? Would you send to VIC 3168?