femno

Bump All Offers Considered.

Car looks great, looks exactly the same as mine did in the oven I was reading about cages in the cams manual the other day and i remember reading that if you only had one brace in the main hoop, it had to be from behind the drivers head to the lower P/S...maybe check that out for piece of mind. I could be wrong though.

I say let this guy go, his car running mint now, so everythings fine, just wait for him to post saying "Why is my car running rough like its on 3 cylinders and oil coming out of the intake and blue smoke coming from the exhaust?"

I emailed Mr Scotsman to have myself and Tim Bryan first up on the back track...just to confirm. Cheers!

Did some more cleaning last night and: MORE PARTS ADDED 19/2 > SR20DE Manual ECU - $50 > SR20 Power Steering Pump - $50 > SR20 AFM - $40 > SR20 Intake Manifold Assembly with Throttle Body - $80 > SR20DE Injectors + Rail + Reg - $90 > SR20DET Intercooler Piping (From Cooler to Throttle Body) - $30 > SR20DET Stock Exhaust Manifold - $20 > CA18DET Alternator - $60 > 180SX 95' Engine Fuse Box (Next to Battery) - $15 Fuses Not Included > 180SX 95' Headlight Relay Fuse Box - $15 Fuses Not Included > SR20 Engine Mount Turbo Side - $25 > SR20DET Standard Rubber Cooler Pipe (To Throttle Body) - $50 > SR20DE Stock Fuel Pump, Full Assembly - $30 > SR20DE Stock Air Box - $15 > SR20DE Intake Pipe - $10

Yeah he was at RE, I remember seeing the car and was like mmm thats a nice clean 15, then I was like OH nice brakes haha. Car is beautiful with power to match the looks. Mint.

cmon heaps of track days are coming up, surely you need some awesome stopping power?

Well considering it cost me $500 to have the bar sprayed after the repair, i doubt they would give me $500 to have it sprayed again as well as repairing it for the 2nd time. So i didnt waste my time. Just wont go there again.

Bought some hubs from Rob last night, hes a top bloke to deal with, goes out of his way to get you the parts you need. Buy his shit!

further bumpage

> CA18DET Engine SOLD > CA18DET Manual Gearbox - $300 Gearbox in good condition, no crunches, everything fine, has shifter and mount. > CA18DET Complete body loom - $150 Includes full ECU loom and body loom, originally from CA18DET Auto. Includes ECU. > SR20DET Front Pipe - $90

DT arent good at all if you ask me, I had my fibreglass front bar repaired there, because my panelbeater doesnt do fibreglass, I asked to have ALL cracks in the damaged area ground back and filled back to original condish, and primer only over the repaired area. I go to pick it up and the whole thing was painted over with primer...I get it painted a week later at my panel beater and low and behold cracks appear through the paint in the area that they supposedly repaired. Rubbish work as far as im concerned.

I dont think theyre comparable at all. Considering one has stock ECU and the other has a Link. Having a/m ECUs isnt an automatic +. Who knows what the tune was like...couldve been rubbish..

Wow wat a read! The rear housings must be quite small, and the front wheels quite large to be 'breathing' on idle. I had a similar issue on a mates SR20 where it was chuffing on idle and was screwing around with the afm. Was running a very small rear housing and being coupled with a large front comp housing it caused this problem. Just some intell on a similar situation, but obviously only single turbo. If you fit standard GTR BOVs in the system, it should help, they actually open on idle, so you would think it would give the air thats bouncing around in there somewhere else to go.. Im really surprised CRD couldnt find a solution to your problem!

What model GTR are the dumps from? If from 33 or 34 ill take them. PM me if so. Cheers.

Cam belt doesnt have timing marks on it? If i was stuck id put it together with the plate on, make some marks and the belt and gears, count some teeth, pull it apart and do it again without the plate. Or dont you have one at all?

PM Sent Cheers

Theres nothing wrong with the cheaper units...I have a set of arospeed gears and theyre just fine, paid 150 from the group buys on here. Alot of people use them. They have no problem handling constant 8,500 and 360kw.

I wouldnt take the boost signal from where you are, id drill, tap and screw in a hose barb to your intercooler pipe just after the turbo, use new hose, run straight from the cooler pipe to the bottom of the gate. Unplug the top. That way you eliminate any chance of cracked pipes or hoses, and boost spikes. If it still overboosts then theres a prob with your gate. If it runs reasonable boost (whatever spring you have in the gate), then T off that line for your solonoid, similar to how it is now for the top part of the gate.

Haha nice one. Still, knocking can be avoided in any case... This situation is so typical, backyard mechanics install their awesome stuff and take the car to the tuner where they find everything is wrong, then blame the tuner. Save yourselves the hassles, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. P.S the only way you can machine the face the manifold seals on is to remove the head! You shouldnt need to do that unless youve dug holes with a die grinder or similar cleaning the old gasket off or something stupid like that. But still wouldnt surprise me..

Was a TOP night, I didnt realise they were actually running car numbers, last dyno night it was first in best dressed...went to sign on at 10pm and was already to 50 on the form, so thought it was gonna be a bit late. PROEVO was probably one of the most impressive cars...that thing could probably eat most cars on the street for breakfast... The DRAGZ supra was pretty dissappointing, looked the part and with that number plate wouldve expected alot more, something like a T88 or something, instead it was pretty much stock Cheers for putting the night on Ray and the boys, will be looking forward to the next.

PMs replied to Buy some parts.

Catback exhaust SOLD bump...tell your mates who have 180s!

No. Series 2 RB25 AFMs have only 3 wires and wont plug into the RB26 loom, whereas 32 and 33 S1 will.

Petrol will help clear the carbon away (if thats whats holding it). Try soaking the rear end of the turbs in petrol. It wont hurt the oil seals or anything.