Triskillion

so when you say relay you just mean the big block fuses in the engine bay yeah?? and to sir D, i think it is possible to fix, take out clean dry etc... and replace the globe if its screwed... coz it probz be pretty hard to find another fog light. unless you know of a jap wrekers. but even them dont have many imports

hey there, my fog lights arnt working, they never worked since i bought the car. afew weeks ago. its a series 2 so its got the 2 circle fog lights and indicators on the front. in the engine bay there is a fuse labled fog lamp (is that the fuse for them???) but i cant tell if the fuse is screwed. also where would i get one of these fuses to replace to see if thats the problem??? thanks for input

hey there, my fog lights arnt working, they never worked since i bought the car. afew weeks ago. its a series 2 so its got the 2 circle fog lights and indicators on the front. in the engine bay there is a fuse labled fog lamp (is that the fuse for them???) but i cant tell if the fuse is screwed. also where would i get one of these fuses to replace to see if thats the problem??? thanks for input

that hose that hits ya car is annoying F*&K!!!!!!!! youd think the person that built the things would have some kind of intelligence... "oh yeah mayb well make the pivot thing a little longer so its got enough room to go around the cars"

everyone says to pump heaps into the engine, what about adjusting the camber??? to its flat on the road, droping the psi in the tyres... plus other mods like exhaust, boost, ecu, tune with race fuel. should run in high 11's dont belive me, i seen it in that "motor active" dvd i got free with my tech wax!!

sounds like awesome value, but from what everyone says... im shit scared coz he seems to talk alot! and i personaly dont like talking on the phone

people have bike chains right... if you leave your car outside un insured. get some massive ass chains and wrap it all around the diff and axles and rims and everything else!! haha well mayb not.... my cars always in the drive way, theres no way i could stop someone that knew what they were doing from stealling it. i think immobilizers are the only way to go. am i right?

ive heard about this jim berry all over this site. his clutches are that good, how much we talking about?? and does he do kits..??

dont know if this could have anything to do with it, i just quick read over this post. but i was reading in a car mag the other day and they couldnt get the car to idle properly with aftermarket ecu (power fc) so they had to use the stock ecu to run idle and piggy back a diff ecu to control the rest (piggy back is the right term i think) but if all else fails mayb that might help! good luck

hmmmm.... i dont know nothing about adjusting shocks but i want to learn. i guess you want the front a little soft so the front sinks down abit. if it was hard you would get understeer..... and if the rear was too hard wouldnt you get oversteer...?? and too soft would spin out coz weight would be shifted to 1 tire at the rear. can someone explain what i said, if its wrong can they say whats correct so i learrrrnnnnn thanks

at first it seem like a fuel problem but you change the fuel stuff... so mayb a blockage in the lines...? i had sortof a similar problem in my nx awhile ago (similar not exactally.) had to take it 3 times.... to the mechanics. first was screwed engine mount. second was 02 sensor. third was thermostate..... after replacing all these my self and costing around $400 each time for just a diagnostic... i was out of money... so the car sat there for 3 days stright.... started it up... and it was running perfect... so in the end i think it just need ecu reset.

or you could rebuild the gts-t. redo the electronics. re-do hoses etc. new suspension. give it a paint job and it will feel brand new. mayb some series 2 seats or something. even if you buy a wrx... eventualy youll run into the same problems... so just fix what ya got and make it new my 2 cents

ITS VANILLA!!!!!! when my mate got his it was strong smell... then when i got mine it was a strong smell... its a yello tree that was hanging from the mirror.... with the word VANILLA written on it.... but now the smell isnt as strong but its still linguring there... might have to buy another one. PS can buy them from any auto store

considering alot of imports are still under 100k's some workshop out there should do a big discount for SAU... think about if everyone from sau went to the one shop for a 100k service..... ps if some sponsors gonna do this make sure its within the next 2 months coz thats when mines due!!!

get a lawyer, one that only gets paid if you win! then make them chase it up. get compensation and repair to your car! that is a life or death situation you were in. close to death

there a heavy duty extreme clutch for sale at http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category19_1.htm for only $220... they say gives 30% more clamp pressure, but for an extra $200 bucks you can get the other one with 40% clamp pressure..... what the hells the difference??? im happy to buy the same clutch as you SIDDR20 off C & B... im just waiting for his reply. seems everyones happy with his clutches. you were saying it feels like a either grab or no grab clutch... is that right? friend of mine has a clutch like that in his r32 and cherps the wheels changing into second just granny driving it.

yeah i was asking because i probz wont be making 200 - 250rwkw till acouple of years... but i need a clutch in the next 2 or 3 weeks... need for normal driving, dragging and burnouts... stock car but soon to be boosted, cooler, cai with pod something similar. and engine management upgrad too

hello i was just thinking, some clutchs are rated at 200rwkw and others 300rwkw.... the price difference is only $100 roughly. obious the 300rwkw one is stronger but does it last longer...??? eg if you had a stock r33, would the 300rwkw clutch last longer... or would it last the same as the other only its able to withstand up to 300rwkw.... make sense?

a friend of mine has a black r33 s2. went to autobarn and asked which wax is the best... the sales guy tried every single wax they had on his car. and meguiers tech wax was the best. my r33 is white so it probz doesnt matter what wax i use... but the tech wax is what im gonna buy!

how the hell do you find everything so cheap SPX25T????? or are everyones elses qoutes with labour included??

yeah im also interested... everyone seems to go twin plate but is it extremely neccessary or just good to have the extra strength

im pretty damn sure it would be CAT back, i havent actual looked yet but i highly doubt the guy i bought it off went and put a dump pipe on it. but it is 3" from the cat at least coz i did check that. and im pretty sure its a genuine HKS... also how much for a power intake APEXI POD... i got HKS one but its shitted and i heard there shit. (seen the site with all the tests done) where do i find one??? on a website?

pretty sure running stock boost, no boost controller or anything. stock gauge reads 3/4 sign (which is around 7psi isnt it?? thats stock right) but speco meter boost gauge reads 8 or 9ish...

looking at a FMIC but my front bar isnt very big. so should i opt for a quality large sized intercooler.... or opt for one that fits the series 2 front bar perfectly??? just thinking if i go a large one then it wont be used to its full potential, but maybe the smaller ones too small??

thanks man, thats the info i was after. also good to see you always answer my posts, info i need to know!!! cant say much for everyone else!!!!! haha just joking