Bullet32

Oh my god! - You guys are still alive!? This night looks like its going to be great, I'll have to make the effort to turn up P.S. I know what Nissan Andrew is driving now (I wont spoil it though)...

All PM's replied - If you have been waiting I'm sorry for the late responses. HKS EIDS Pro and RB25DET AFM - Still available

All PM's replied... I wont be contactable until Monday (moving house) so I will answer any other messages then.

ECU SOLD (pending payment).

$60.00 Plus postage (usually around $15 - $20)

CAM GEAR SOLD

PM received - reply sent.

Done... I will PM you.

Sorry guys, not quick enough... SEAT SOLD pending payment. It will be on its way up to its new owner in Queensland by this weekend

SEAT SOLD (pending payment).

Ideal track pressures would be about 34 - 36psi cold as they will pick up around 6 - 8 psi when hot... I have found that ideal temp for track use is between 60 - 80 degrees on the tread face. The sidewalls in the 595RS are fairly strong but when used on the track they can fold under a bit, keep checking the sidewalls for signs of wear and adjust your pressures to suit.

Series 1 (1993). I will find out and PM you.

Exhaust systems like that from R32 - R34 are very easy to install, as long as you are fairly handy and have the right tools (a hoist always helps too). X-Force are reasonable quality systems, not the greatest but not crap either... Although $1100 seems pretty expensive. I would call Trojan and speak with Angelo before you buy that exhaust, he might be able to source something better quality for around the same money.

Hi Ben, I'm no tuning expert, but I had one installed on the exhaust side on my RB25DET, I'm pretty sure that if your RB has VCT (variable cam timing) on the inlet cam then there is no point putting an adjustable gear on it unless you get rid of the VCT completely. Check the forced induction performance thread for more info. Cheers,

Ok, as my priorities have changed recently (new house) I have a few parts that have been taking up space in the garage that I need to get rid of... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- HKS EIDS Pro (Electronic Idle Stabilzer). Brand new still in box, never used (was going to use but need the cash more now), can be used with standard or aftermarket engine management. "The HKS EIDS has been developed to buffer dramatic airflow meter signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents engine stalling or stumbling associated with sudden imbalances in air/fuel ratio of airflow meter-equipped vehicles that utilize atmosphere venting blow-off valves." (Description from Nengun.com). These are $170.00 plus postage to buy online, I am asking for $100.00 plus postage. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- JJR Adjustable Cam Gear (to suit RB series). Brand new still in box, never used. Perfect for adjusting cam timing for fine tuning of RB motors. These are $125.00 plus postage from Just Jap, I am asking for $70.00 plus postage. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SAAS 'Enforcer' reclinable bucket seat (silver grey). Brand new, never used or fitted. No rips, tears or damage of any kind. This seat is universal fitment and can be adapted to Skyline / Silvia / Supra / Commodore (anything) rails without too much hassle. It is very well bolstered, ADR compliant and comfortable. Retail price on these seats is $499.00 and the best price I have seen them for in the shops is $299.00 - I am only asking for $180.00 plus freight!! - SERIOUSLY CHEAP FOR A GREAT SEAT!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Standard RB25DET ECU - My Skyline had no speed or rev cut with this computer and made 190rwkw with only a 3" exhaust and front mount intercooler (stock boost 7-8psi). It could be chipped but I am not sure... Make me an offer. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I also have a standard RB25DET Air Flow Meter with plug in perfect working condition - My Skyline made 237rwkw using this AFM. Asking for $60.00 plus postage. (not my photo - only used as example of item) I will organise postage / freight of all parts to anywhere in the country at buyers expense... Send me a PM for more info and / or more pictures. FIRST IN BEST DRESSED!

Ideal fitment would be 235/45R17 front and 255/40R17 rear if you are after maximum traction, but you can vary anywhere between 215 - 235 on the front and 225 - 255 on the rear safely (depending on the tyre)... It depends on what type of driving you are planning on doing.

Ok guys, I will have a large bill to pay when I get the Skyline back (most of you will find out why when I come out to my first Friday night in nearly 2 years) so I need some cash... $180.00!!! Pick up only... This is SERIOUSLY CHEAP for a seat that retails at $499.00!!... Someone buy this seat!!

LOL - I HAVE seen this thread and I am laughing at the thought of 18" re-treads... The reason why re-treads are so hard to find these days is that they arent cost effective anymore. Its almost always easier and cheaper to import/wholesale/retail cheap brands such as "Wanli, Accelera, Achilies" etc. than it is to re-tread or re-mould these days. If you want cheap tyres and arent to fussed about performance then call Tempe or Ozzy tyres and ask for their cheapest nastiest tyres. P.S. - With most re-treaded tyres you dont really know exactly what you are getting, for example: You could buy a re-treaded Michelin which was rated as 'V' (240kph) or 'Z' (300+kph) speed rating when new but the tread compound/pattern that has been moulded on to the old case is only 'S' (180kph) or 'T' (190kph) rated and there would be NO WAY to know for sure.... The point of the story - avoid buying re-treads.

Man, this is getting really out of hand... So many cars being stolen! We should start a vigilanty group and go around baiting theives (while we wait in nearby cars) then jump out when they break in to the bait car and bash their heads in with steel pipes!! James (DriftGTS) can be our "enforcer" --- He has a medievil style mace! P.S. I hope it turns up

There are a lot of factors that determine which pressures are best for which car, such as: vehicle weight, tyre size, driving style etc. Generally if you want more dry traction you should run lower pressures (lower pressure means a slightly wider contact patch over higher pressure and lower pressure also heats the tyre up quicker than higher pressure)... There is a limit to how low you should go though as low pressures can cause premature wear. I have to agree with nisskid - you should trial pressures by driving along the same stretch of road (preferably somewhere nice and twisty) and drop your pressures 2psi each time until you find what performs best for you. P.S. Most Tyre shops will pump tyres up fairly high - this makes the steering feel nice and light (makes the customer think the tyres feel good)... You should always check your pressures after having them fitted.

For all of those parts: www.negun.com www.justjap.com or if you want to buy locally, Angelo at Trojan will be able to source and have all those parts fitted and tuned.

Hey Steve, I just thought that I would try to help out by adding in my two cents I have been using 595RS' for a few years now on my R32 (daily drive) and have found them to be pretty good in the wet (considering that they are a semi-slick)... As long as you remember that they are more meant for dry road use and dont mash the loud pedal to much, you shouldnt have any surprises in the wet... Motor magazine rated these the "Best wet braking" semi slick in their last tyre test. Also, my last set of these lasted a touch over 27,000kms so you can get pretty good life out of them if you keep up regular tyre maintenance. If you are after a great all round performance tyre these are the pick of the bunch for "bang for your buck".

Im pretty sure they are the same (not that it really matters ) this is what they used to look like before we painted them (pic attached) Yes... Definitely. Good point Duncan - I can tell you that Federal list 17x8's as the ideal fitment for 235/45R17 595RS-R's

Hmm, must be the angle of the driveway its sitting on then... Or just my eyes I love those wheels too, they're Blitz R series 1 arent they? I have been trying to con my mate into selling me his for ages, but he loves them because they sit perfectly in the guards and are pretty light... We just painted them black and they look awesome on a silver car...

Looks like you had plenty of negative camber on the front in that pic... Looks very neat (I'm a little bias towards R32 GTST's) That depends more on the type of tyre you get rather than the size... If you get a cheap street tyre and take it to the track you probably wont be happy, but if you buy a good quality set that can handle the abuse of track work you wont regret it. In almost all cases if you want to do track work, your best bet is to get another set of wheels and fit "track only" tyres to them... Like Bridgestone RE55's or another fairly soft compound semi-slick. But if you just want the one set of tyres to do everything (good street traction, wet control and reliable grip / life on the track) then you should look for something along the lines of the Federal 595RS-R, Falken RT615, Toyo R1R or another intermediate level "street friendly" semi-slick.