Bullet32

John at Trojan knows what he's doing so I would trust what he says and does, the last tune I had John do on my car is excellent.

I dont think you can have aftermarket pods at all in NSW...

They're some really nice tyres you've got there... Oh yeah the wheels are pretty sexy too

Last year there wasnt a fire extinguisher required, I cant see it being any different this year... But they're a good thing to have so it cant hurt.

It really depends on your overall set up and the power that you are looking to get out of it as to which injector size is well suited. Bigger is not necessarily better when it comes to injectors, I originally put 650cc squirters in mine and because I was building a set up more for response and track work rather than outright power or drag racing they were far to big. When the tune was being done with the 650's my tuner had to pull out over 50% of the fuel going in to keep the AFR's right and that made it run like crap because the injector duty was to low, it also refused to idle. So 550cc's went in and they were as big as I needed for my set up. If youre looking for about 300kw at the wheels, which isnt a huge ask with the turbo you have then you will probably need bigger than 550's in yours, you will probably need a rising rate fuel reg to keep as much pressure in the rail as possible to. I dont claim to be a tuning expert, but I have done just about every bolt on mod that you can do to an RB motor aswell as a lot of time on the dyno having it tuned, Im only speaking from my own experience.

last year there were only 5 or 6 ACT members and about 35 NSW... How would it work if its the same this year? Im going for the "Fastest R32 Gtst" title again this year... But I think that Reece will be in his R32 this time and not the Starlet so there could be some stiff competition.

17psi on a stock tune could make mince meat of a piston in no time... If you dont have the correct AFR (air fuel ratio) you run a high risk of detonation due to lean fuel and air mixtures. But you might be lucky, I have heard of people doing it and not having troubles... However, my advice is to run a maximum of 12 - 14psi with a stock R33 RB25DET computer, if you start running anything over this kind of boost you may have serious issues with your AFR's being far to lean and if you get even a small boost spike without safe mixtures you could easily end up with a piston head with a large chunk missing. Do it once, do it right... 1st step - Fuel pump (Bosch 040 or Walbro are the most popular) 2nd step - Splitfires (or higher amperage coils) the standard coils dont have high enough amps and with more boost you could end up blowing out the spark at high RPM. 3rd step - Computer and injectors (try not to go over 550cc on a stock motor as they can be a bitch to tune if they're to big) and something like a Power FC plug in or a Microtech would be needed to control the whole kit. Oh and make sure that you have some sort of reliable boost control and a front mount + big exhaust or you'll just choke a bigger turbo and it wont breathe enough for decent power gains. Ive been through all of this and unless you know what your doing and can do most of it yourself it can become very expensive. Happy shopping

Bugger, I would really like some good ACT based competition out there this year... Everyone knows that I was 2.5 seconds quicker than Michele and 4 seconds quicker than Reece last year

Im not going to volunteer... Im going to compete!

Meh, maybe I'll just spectate...

Please explain to us how we are supposed to "go out there give it your best whatever class" if according to the current rules we dont fit in to either class?

The point is - If someone in my position wanted to attend this comp just for fun but was told that they cant compete in the Clubsprint class because the car has a later model engine in it (even though its not that powerful) and they cant compete in the Open class because the car doesnt have a roll cage, what are they supposed to do? Buy a roll cage and fit it before the event (which Im sure isnt cheap or easy) or swap the engine back for an RB20?? I dont think that you can make a blanket rule like "no engine conversions can compete in clubsprint class" because its pretty vague... Perhaps the rule should be judged by power to weight ratio??

Huh??

I totally agree with you, there should be exceptions to the rule, my R32 Gtst has an R33 Gtst RB25DET and its not the most powerful or fastest car around and because it doesnt have a cage it means that I cant compete in either class so Im pretty much screwed completely... Its a shame because Im sure that Im not the only one in this position.

I would love to have a go at this but I would be forced to go into Open class because my R32 Gtst has an RB25DET transplanted, and I would have my ass handed to me by the open class cars... Bugger. Shameless plug: This event sounds like a great opportunity for drivers in the Clubsprint class to use Federal 595RS and RS-R as they have treadwear ratings of 140 - 180 depending on size and are a pretty sticky semi slick tyre... more info... Even more info...

Ive never tried to eat your dog! I wouldnt get any meat out of it anyway

"A high-powered Holden Crewman ute" - I love how they always say "high powered" when there is a crash, just so that they can make out that people who drive cars with over 90kw are idiots and regularly crash... I know someone who saw this for real after it happened, that picture doesnt do it any justice... Apparently it looked like there was no way anyone could have survived. How you can crash that bad on Northbourne Ave is beyond me, its a 60km zone, there are multiple posted speed / red light cameras and its nearly always packed with traffic. Wierd...

Yeah its looking something like that...

Im beginning to wonder whether I should cancel my membership, sell my Skyline and quit my job just so that you will all know how much Im worth when you realise that you cant get tyres for the right price, you dont have anyone who is a wealth of automotive knowledge (cos I am so smart S.M.R.T) and you dont have anyone to pay out on. At the moment Im writing my naughty list and its filling up fast.

Shop around, you might find a dealer that will look after you on four tyres, use the dealer locator on the website to find one in your area. The 595's will normally last for about 20 - 25,000kms but if you look after them theres no reason that you shouldnt get 30,000kms from a set. As a dry traction tyre the 595's are excellent, in the wet they are not bad either, I find them to be pretty predictable and controllable in the wet and if you dont have a lead foot they will disperse the water pretty well and provide good traction.

I would suggest fitting the rim to the car without a tyre on it to see how close it will be to the guard (obviously dont lower the car down onto the ground though ). Then if you have enough room go for the 255's because they will be as close to standard overall diameter as you will get, the other benifit will be that the walls will lean inward slightly giving you a bit more clearance. As for brand of tyres - Federal 595's are a great tyre for the right price (Im a bit bias though), 595's are excellent for dry traction and they arent overly expensive, I use them and have all my friends using them and the only complaint I have had is from a mate of mine who goes drifting - he said that they grip to much Have a look at www.federaltyres.com.au

I should probably be concerned, Im sure that Michele has enough money to have me "rubbed out"...

The middle number in tyre measurments represents that tyres aspect ratio, its not a measurment in mm... For example - 265 / 35 R18 = 35% of the tread width (approx 265mm) equals the height of the sidewall, therefore you have to factor in the tyres width and aspect ratio together to get the overall diameter. If you are changing from a 225 / 50 R16 with an approximate o.d of 631mm to an 18" tyre that needs to be wide enough for a 9.5" rim then your best bet is a 255 / 35 R18 (although it will be a little streched on a 9.5") which will have an o.d of about 653mm, this will help to keep your speedo and gearing as close to factory as possible. Note: Overall diameters will change from brand to brand, as tyre sizes and o.d's are only comparable within each brand so do some checking before you buy. I hope this helps

You know that one day Im going to turn up at the track with a packet of stick on franjipani's and plaster them all over your nice black formula 4000... Then Im going to take at least half a dozen photo's and spread them all over the net!

Im not saying that youre not allowed to voice your opinion, what Im saying is that if someone said to you that something about your car looks gay you would probably be quite offended... Perhaps a better choice of words next time Shawn?