Bullet32

Well it might cause quite a few of you a lot of pain to know that I am considering moving on from my R32... I know, I know I'd be an idiot to sell it and all that, but this is only an Expression Of Interest because I have been thinking about this for at least a year now and my mind still isnt made up, so I need your opinions. I am thinking of parting with my 1992 R32 GTS-T for somewhere around $13,000 (which I think is very reasonable). Here is a "short" list of specs: 1992 R32 GTS-T M-Spec Spark Silver metallic with custom vinyl graphics. Engine: - 1993 R33 S1 RB25DET conversion. - Genuine Garret GT30/76R turbo with custom internal wastegate. - Custom polished alloy intake piping, turbosmart triple ply silicone joiners. - Z33 Air-flow meter + compact air pod (breathes plenty of air). - JJR Adjustable exhaust cam gear. - Custom front-mount intercooler 600x300x76mm with custom stainless piping, triple ply silicone joiners ad T-clamps. - Turbosmart SS blow-off valve - Genuine Splitfire coil packs + NGK spark plugs (gapped to 0.8mm). - JJR oil catch can + breather. - 45mm Alloy radiator with A'Pexi 3BAR cap and Davies Craig high temp hoses. - Engine fan removed, Cooltemp 14" thermo fan installed with shroud and electronic fan controller (never gets above 90 degrees). - Genuine TRUST Power Extreme II exhaust system (3" mandrel), TRUST front pipe and split dump pipe. Electronics: - A'Pexi PowerFC ECU. - Turbosmart E-Boost street. - Brant alarm (needs replacing). Driveline: - R33 GTS-T gearbox. - TOMEI billet short shift kit. - Exedy Hyper-single ceramic button clutch kit. - Custom single piece tailshaft with Z33 uni-joints. - Standard diff with 140W motosport oil for more lock (doesnt whine or clunk). Brakes: - Standard rotors, wheel bearings replaced under 20,000kms ago. - Overhauled standard calipers with Bendix ultimate pads (I also have EBC Greens still in the box). - Braided brake lines (ADR approved). - Motul RBF600 brake fluid. - Overhauled master cylinder. Suspension & steering: - TEIN Super-street adjustable coil-overs. - Billet alloy adjustable caster rods. - Genuine Nismo front strut brace. - HICAS removed and locked (entire system removed), new rear rack ends and knuckles installed. - Front steering rack overhauled, new boots, rack ends and tie rods. Wheels & tyres: - Volk Challenge 17x7 and 17x8 (don't know offset on these *very light-weight*. - Federal 595RS tyres (about 50% tread) slightly over sized 225/45R17 and 255/40R17. Interior: - Stock standard seats, carpet etc. - Isotta MegII genuine leather steering wheel. - RAZO gear knob. - Autometer boost guage in pod. - PowerFC hand controller and E-Boost street unit mounted neatly on dash (no holes drilled). Sound system: - Alpine head unit (about 5 years old) - FUSION 600W 4way amp powering FUSION speakers (very good sound but no fully sick sub-woofer). Body: - Genuine GTR V-Spec front bar (genuine Nissan). - M-Spec side skirts and rear pods. - Rear bar is slightly damaged from scraping on a car trailer but I plan to have it resprayed. - Custom Nismo stripes. - No accident history or dodgy repairs. This car has been lovingly looked after, always garaged and serviced with Motul fluids every 5,000kms. I have done almost all of the work myself (so I know it's done right) any of the work that I have had done at workshops has been done by either Trojan Motorsport or ESP Racing. Glenn at ESP tuned this car in this set up to 275rwkw (370rwhp) and over 500nm of torque at only 14.4psi but when not driven hard it is very comfortable and easy to drive on the street. Pictures attached. What I am asking is whether I should sell this car and upgrade (keeping the next car a secret at this stage) and is the price right? NOTE: I will be putting a year's rego on it and can assist the purchaser in getting it passed over inspection. Cheers, Mick

I hear this all the time in my line of work and it sh_ts me to no end... The issue with importing your own parts like this is that if you have any problems with warranty or a manufacturing defect you'll have trouble getting anything from the ebay person you bought them from and I highly doubt that without a receipt from an Australian distributor that anyone local will help you out (at least without charging you for it). If you buy from a local distributor you can be confident that your parts are manufacturer backed (although it always pays to ask anyway) and if you have any problems, they can help you out... You're also supporting an Australian business and keeping the money here in Australia. People fail to take all this into account when buying online from overseas and they don't realise that parallel import products can often be more trouble for the consumer, businesses and the Australian economy than they are worth.

Spotted (and waved to) a nice black R34 GTT near Lanyon shops yesterday... Sweet looking car!

No problem Kyle, Yeah, thats them M&A Engineering, they can probably make the whole shaft for you... I personally wouldnt bother using a stock 2 peice shaft because once you start pushing more power through it (and believe me, you will) it will start sh!tting the centre bearing regularly... I know from experience. "Im not looking for massive amounts of power" - thats what I said to begin with but then I got bitten by the bug and had to have more... Believe me, having 300+kw in a lightweight R32 GTS-T is a lot of fun! Cheers Mick

Hi Kyle, I put an R33 RB25DET and gearbox in my R32 GTS-T a few years ago, I can't really answer your wiring question because I had the wiring for mine done by an auto electrician... But for the tail-shaft you are better off getting a single piece made custom to fit with a decent set of uni joints if you plan on extracting a reasonable amount of power out of the engine. I had mine made at the Diff Doctor in Fyshwick and it cost me about $600 (he doesn't balance them though so you will need to find a shop that can balance it, I think there is one in Mitchell) - make sure you have it balanced properly otherwise you'll get a bad vibration through the car under load. All you need to do is measure the distance from the back of the gearbox (where the front yoke goes in) to the diff and take the measurement to the shop along with the old tail shaft (so he can use the rear yoke for your diff) and he'll weld it all together for you. Cheers Mick

Hmmmm, sponsorship opportunity for Federal me thinks... Definitely looking into it!

Anyway........... I think we all got a bit carried away for a while there. I assume that the point of this thread is just to make suggestions on "Where to get your Skyline serviced" so here are my suggestions (take them or leave them): 1. Extreme Street Performance 2. Trojan Motorsport 3. Techworkz Automotive These are the shops that have looked after me many times in the past and in my opinion are the only workshops worth taking your pride and joy to for tuning, servicing, modifications in or around Canberra. Done

You can't talk... You bought a Falcon!

I knew I could trust you to mention that Shell

I can see that you would feel secure and safe taking your car to CRD for tuning and mechanical work and I wouldnt try to talk you out of it... But as Luke said, why would you get someone to tune your car in Sydney where there is a vastly different air mixture, then drive it back to Canberra and have it drop 10% in power? "The reason I don't use local workshops is that I don't like paying someone to reinvent the wheel" - isnt this what every single workshop does these days anyway?... I would think that the only places that dont do this are the manufacturers of the engines themselves. ESP would be my first choice for dyno tuning and big modifications like an RB25 or RB26 re-build as this is what they specialise in... Glenn has many years experience in tuning all kinds of performance cars (especially Skylines and Supras) and his results on the dyno speak for themselves... Plus they're local and if your car is local, this would work out better for the tune dont you think? I guess that personal preference and experiences speak in volumes... Hence why I am suggesting you give Techworkz a go, even just for minor servicing.

That may be so, and to a certain extent I agree with you... I have seen quite a few very badly built race/rally cars. There are obviously exceptions to the rule though and the cars that I have seen / driven that Mick (Techworkz) has built are exremely well put together... Some of them may not be pretty but they sure as hell perform well. P.S. The reason that Neil Bates receives all of the attention is because he has always had the cash behind him to build and enter cars into high profile events that attract mainstream media (he can also drive very well) but there is also a large local rally scene in Canberra where lots of workshops / owner drivers take their well prepared rally cars and race around the Canberra countryside at insane speeds (most of them are very good drivers as well). Perhaps you should give Techworkz a go before you judge a book by its cover?

I dont know how good Mick is with Haltech but I know that he has built a number of rally and race cars with aftermarket management... Its worth asking him though (tell him that Mick from Federal sent you). Mick runs the show and he has an off sider there with him at the moment... I have seen in great detail and driven the legs off Mick's cars before and have been very impressed, I definitely recommend him

You are correct Richard, Techworkz is in the same row of shops as Gas Tune but they are 2 shops up (next to Audiotech). Oh and I forgot to mention that these guys are MTAA registered so they can do log-book servicing as well. Here's a fairly recent photo of the shop:

Well I've been taking my Skyline to Techworkz in Tuggeranong for a short while now and I can say that the customer service, quality work and know how have been so good that I am now taking all three of our cars back there for regular servicing, maintenance or modifications. I even had Techworkz do a full rebuild of the V6 in my 4Runner and I couldnt be happier with it... After sales service is awesome too - the engine had a very small leak from the cam cover a week after the build (after a few heat cycles the metal warps a bit) and he replaced the gasket and cleaned the engine for free, all in one day. I was so impressed with the level of professionalism that I set him up as a Federal Tyres dealer (shameless plug). I highly recommend Techworkz in Tuggers - Call Mick and have a chat: 6293 2424

Do it James... You know you want to be like me and own an R32

272rwkw thankyou

I'd buy that for a dollar! BTW - Is this your car Luke? --- Click me

+1 for this! I've seen this car multiple times as I live in the Lanyon/Gordon/Calwell area as well and I dont think that the owner is on these forums... You're right though, he or she drives like a complete moron (giving the rest of us a bad name). BTW - Spotted Jeno's old silver R33 Gtst in Fyshwick today, along with a black R33 Gtst with a rather large wing. P.S - Why doesn't anyone wave anymore? I used to get waves all the time from fellow Skyliners but now I just get weird looks from other Skyline drivers

Face it Luke... You sold your Skyline and now you're enjoying driving a non-turbo Impreza... You're getting old and soft

I'm so in love with this idea... Who would have thought of creating a boosted VQ powered R34... Awesome, just awesome, I can't wait to see it on the road.

PM Sent

447.4199rwkw (to be exact)

Damn... There seem to be a lot of car thefts in Canberra these days Will keep an eye out.

Judging by the pictures you posted and the overall diameter of your current tyres you shouldnt need bolt on spacers to make the front wheels fit. Here are the approximate overall diameter's of the tyres you have and alternatives that could get you out of trouble (factoring in tread depth which is usually about 5-7mm depending on the tyre). 245/40R20 - approx O.D: 704 - 705mm 245/35R20 - approx O.D: 679 - 680mm = -24, -25mm (compared to 245/40) 225/35R20 - approx O.D: 665 - 666mm = -38, -39mm (compared to 245/40) 225/30R20 - approx O.D: 642 - 643mm = -61, -62mm (compared to 245/40) One thing you will have to be aware of is that as a general rule the lower you go in sidewall, the lower the tyre's load rating and if the load rating isnt equal to or higher than the manufacturer's spec then you can be defected or if you have an accident your insurance can be void... So make sure you check the load ratings before fitting new tyres. I hope this helps P.S - Love the Work Meister S1's!

When you say that a particular tyre is "Horrid" you might want to specify that this is only your opinion because the Federal 595 is actually very popular and a lot of Skyline (and other high performance vehicle) owners swear by them. Yes they are at the inexpensive end of the tyre scale but they certainly arent a cheap, crap tyre sold only on price... For a really good "bang for your buck tyre" you almost cant go wrong with the 595 - in my opinion.