Bullet32

Rocky!

There are so many different reasons for what is happening but one of them could be: Just because your tyres are a good brand and they have tread doesnt instantly mean that they are great in the wet... A lot of directional and some non directional tyres cant evacuate water from the tread face quick enough in heavy rain (especially when you drive through a puddle) so your probably just experiencing loss of traction from the tyres with the most water in the tread which will cause a "pull" in the steering or a very uneasy "sloppy" steering feel.

Now now... Play nice!

I need to be nice sometimes... Otherwise who would want to buy tyres from some guy who is grumpy all the time? This doesnt mean that I like you though

+1 for Trojan...

I'll give you $700.00 for the Federal's if you throw in the GTR Michele... By the way sorry to hijack your thread Sly033!

New car? I thought that you were getting rid of cars, not buying more! I'll be out there about 9 - 9:30 tonight (not in the Skyline) so I'll meet up with everyone then.

So does this mean that there will be no more "no speed limit" days at Wakefield?

When is this starting again? Im keen to get a set of lines before the car sees the track in 2008...

Oh great... As if you needed another reason to be proud of yourself... Just kidding - Great stuff Michele.

Just make sure that you keep the tyres Michele!

Walbro in tank, or Bosch 040 - Best for the price...

The Skyline was out of action - dead alternator... So Mark drove us out there in James' girlfriends commodore... I know I know, I feel dirty!!

Ok then, I hope that he or someone he knows doesnt read these forums...

Usually the first weekend of December.

Ok then, some more friendly advice for you Viper_R32 The RB25DET and RB20DET are almost physically the same, if youre using a low mount turbo with the standard T3 flange your dump pipe will bolt straight on. If you wanted to use the exhaust manifold and turbo from your RB20 they will also go straight onto an RB25 as both manifolds have the same flanges. You wont need to change the head. As for your front mount kit, the only thing you have to change is - you will need to have a small outlet welded onto the inlet pipe for the wastegate actuator, this is the only difference between the RB20 and RB25 cooler kits (apart from the general shape) I use an R32 Gtst intercooler kit on mine and I have an R33 RB25 in it. The water pump for both engines is a the same and Im pretty sure the oil pump is aswell, so if you already have an aftermarket one you can still use it on an RB25. A tailshaft will only cost $500.00, I had mine made custom with all new uni's and a brand new front yoke, the balance is near perfect and it is a lot stronger than a standard 2 piece. If you buy an R33 front cut you can request to have it come with a test sheet just like the one that you would get with the RB20 that youre planning on buying. The good thing about a front cut is that it comes complete with computer, wiring and gearbox so you dont have to worry about sourcing these things later. Trojan, ESP or even Intune Auto Electrics will all be able to install the wiring and computer without to much hassle, the looms arent that different. "my curent engine was pumping out 300kw at the engine and just over 200kw at the wheels," - How did you work that out? If you were making that kind of power at the engine you would have been making an easy 250 - 260rwkw if not more, your drive train shouldnt soak up anywhere near 100kw, even with an older gearbox, tailshaft and diff you should only notice a drop of 30 - 40kw from the engine at the most. My car is putting down 230rwkw and 550nm on a safe tune, which is more than enough to have a lot of fun with, if you have a highflow turbo, big exhaust, front mount, boost control - you should easily see over 200kw at the wheels from an RB25DET, you will however need programmable engine management or an air fuel controller if you have larger injectors or if you want to play with the AFR's The only reason that I would lean more towards the R33 RB25DET is because the amount of power and torque available from doing simple mods is far greater than what you get from an RB20DET, I have had both engines in my car and I wouldnt go back to the RB20.... Just my opinion though, if youre partial to RB20's then go for your original plan.

Youre half right John... The few times that I have been out to the Summernats in my car or gone to Braddon to park and watch some nice cars I have had good and bad reactions. The reason that I am not going to be driving my car during Summernats is because I dont need to draw any extra attention from our "friendly neighbourhood constabulary", I would rather avoid being pulled over for a "random" vehicle inspection. I will probably ride shotgun with someone else though.

I have to remember that there are other subjects than tyres that we can talk about on Friday nights... Good turn out though, even though I turned up in a Commodore!

Tell us what you really think Scott

I would just order them direct from Just Jap, they're an HKS dealer... You wont find them cheaper in Canberra.

Id be careful, if its a restricted permit and you get stopped by the cops they'll book you for driving un registered because you wont be able to say "Im on my way to get it fixed"... Plus its still double demerits. Advice - Check your permit before driving.

I suggest that some of us get our act together and join SAU NSW at Autosalon Final Battle 2008, there are plenty of Skylines here worthy of an Autosalon display... I know I'll be there.

I know who youre talking about... I havent seen that car since the 2005 Christmas cruise.

Im not sure I am following this thread right... Viper_R32 - Youre saying that because you had a turbo failure, you want to put another RB20DET into your R32? Why would you do this? If you buy another used RB20 you will have no guarantee that it hasnt had the crap flogged out of it, you may have the same problems that youre having now, or worse! If you are planning a re-build on the RB20 that you have why waste the money of buying another RB20? Taking the car off the road for around 6 weeks might sound like a pain in the ass but it could save you over a thousand dollars in the end... Also, if you have a buggered RB20 gearbox why not have it re-built with a stronger gear set while the engine and box is out...? If you buy a used RB25 box youre looking at about $1,500 at least and there is no guarantee that it will be in good condition. If you spend $2,000 on a new stronger gear set for the box you have then you will know that it is brand new and very strong. If youre looking for a "budget" build up then why not look for a decent R33 Gtst front cut with low km's and transplant a good condition RB25DET with gearbox, wiring and computer into the car for around $5,000? - Thats what I did and I have never looked back. If I have read this all wrong please let me know, Im just confused as to why you would waste so much money on unessecary things....

I agree with BNR32t, its a very bad idea taking a Jap import car anywhere near Summernats... I know a guy who took an R34 GTR to Summernats about 2 years ago only to have beer cans and crap thrown at it when he drove passed pissed V8 bogan idiots and there was nothing he could do about it because he only had one passenger and there are always 10 - 12 bogans in each roudy group. When he complained to the organisers they apparently just told him that they couldnt do anything because he had no names (as if you can just stop and ask for names when someone is throwing shit at your car and screaming names at you)... I would hate to see anyone's car from here get damaged... Summernats + pissed bogans + Jap cars = recipe for disaster. You wont see my car on the road while Summernats is on.