Buttoned_Down_Psycho

The airbag sensors for driver and passenger airbags are inside the engine ecu or for newer cars the airbags can have their own unit. Im not sure what exactly the g sensor your talking about is but id say be very careful with it, if its an accelerometer they will break fairly easily from a small fall onto a hard surface or being hit with a tool whilst removed from the vehicle.

Im curious as to how a lidar jammer detects the laser? surely the laser would place a fairly small point on the target, how does the detector catch this before its too late? are the detectors mounted externally somewhere? As for radar jamming, just do what the military does, once the the signal is aquired - dump a whole bunch of aluminium foil strips into the air ... i suppose then you'd still get done for littering .. haha

the cops dont really need more power, they need training and the ability to use their current power to enforce the law without being bombarded with bogus racism claims and negative comments from the media that only serve to help the criminals. Thats my opinion anyhow

like these? TYPE1 TYPE2 There are a few others there aswell that look much the same, if you browse using OTHER COMPONENTS --> LED-GLOBES

12V with a 300Ohm resistor is closer to 40mA. Jaycar sell the Bulb fittings seperately so you can add the LED's of your choosing but they are pretty expensive. RS components sell Complete LED lighting replacements for incandecsant lighting in cars (except of course your mainbeams) Example. As far as the LED's focused light, I've seen a couple of tricks used by people to disperse the light more evenly, lightly sanding the exterior of the led with some garnet paper seems to work alright and also filing the top of the dome of the LED package so that it is flat or concave will work fairly well too. Also if buying White or blue LED's from jaycar especially, get them all at one time and test them at the store if possible (most Jaycar stores Ive been to have a small LED tester) because different batches from different manufacturers can be a quite noticably different color.

as already mentioned, if you can tap the switch and the lights flicker on turn on temporarily, then its most likely the little plastic bits which push the contacts open and closed in the light switch. its very easy to spot them once you open the switch, they are in a line of 3 and are spring loaded. The one that has melted (either just cus nissan miscalculated current draw with age/ higher wattage bulbs used/ or accessories being run from the light circuit ie gauges) is pretty obvious to see, what i did for a temporary measure was to trim the melted bits off as it tends to mushroom at the top, then grabbed the spring and stretched it out a bit more to make up for the part that melted, then reassembled it and checked continuity at the plug. Sure this solution isnt long term if your setup remains identicle, but it is free and the switch is not hard at all to take apart and reassemble. just wish id taken fotos for you lot.

goto an automotive shop like auto one or the like, they often have this sort of thing, if you have no luck goto an auto trimmer and ask them nicely for a few clips, unless they are very stingey they'll flick you a few no probs

Basically i only want the plug that plugs into the computer from the loom with enough wire length off it to make it useful and the socket on the ECU itself . that is all. As these items are almost definately no good to anyone really im not willing to throw a whole heap of money at it but if you have these items and want to get rid of them and make a couple of bucks then give me a yell at [email protected]. im in west sydney by the way

this idea with the alarm addition in the door handle, whats it supposed to do? set the alarm off if someone lifts the handle? or if someone levers the whole handle out? if its the latter.. then if they have levered the handle out, you can basically assume theyd be getting into the car... and to do that they have to open the door once unlocked which would trip the alarm anyhow. am i missing something?

could be your lifters ? when a bit worn they will tap a bit when the motor is cold and then go quiet.

hmmm hes a Person In Lots Of Trouble? ...technically i said nothing...

i always thought that the strength was in the metal reinforcing bumper that your bumper skin sits on, surely the strength of your body kit doesnt matter at all aside from the fact that scrapes may damage some more than others..

theres a school zone on the great western highway through st marys where it drops from 80 to 40 during normal school zone hours, they dont have a speed camera there YET but it seems like a great money raising spot for one so no doubt its only a matter of time. I also cant remember EVER seeing school kids crossing the highway or even more than one or two uniformed kids even walking along side it. As also mentioned, you drop your speed down to 40... and most others seem to continue doing 80, you know your doing the right thing but its annoying when a kenworth comes up behind you flashing its high beams and sitting right on your ass urging you to go faster if it can not change lanes. Remember bob carrs promise to put in more speed cameras and sending the revenue the way of spinal research (yeah right), well they also mentioned that most of the new cameras would be enforcing school zones. Looks like its begun. Funny how quick they are to set up a speed camera as opposed to how long it takes them to fix up a road as mentioned in an earlier post.

Someone mentioned 'entrapment' before and you see it often in threads relating to fines etc, im fairly sure that entrapment is an american thing and as such, has no relevance here. Also reguarding the cops word against yours, i have *heard* that if a regular traffic cop (sergeant, constable) in a marked car pulls you up, they must show evidence of you speeding, however if it is a detective in an unmarked car, their word is deemed evidence enough.

as for getting an engineers certificate and jamming it in the cops faces, doesnt quite work like that as they can claim something has been changed after the date it was engineered, and if the RTA is present, the engineer certificates are about as useful as all those dockets jammed in your ashtray. But the situations where its just constable care and yourself, it more than likely does get you out of it and is probobly still worth it

haha yeah a fence post... hey! i have an enchanted pencil tin that slightly resembles jesus from 400 feet away if you squint! you can all come see it for a small fee of $14.95 ($12.95 concession) i mean fair enough to have a laugh and say 'hey that kinda looks like ..... ' but some of these people were kissing the fence post and resting their foreheads on it on the news and that old missionary with the big mole (ala austin powers: goldmember) was saying that it was a sign from god that women shouldnt sunbath topless as matty said haha, im still having a laugh over that one

If they were serious about helping all that spinal cord stem cell research, they'd donate the revenue from 10 of the existing cameras... 10 MORE is crazy..

henros - fair enough he asked one coil, i just read in another forum he wanted to get rid of the original coil packs and ive seen the 6 regular coil thing done. also since they would only be triggering the coils, the amplifier outputs wouldnt be dealing with the high tension side of the coil. all that your effectively doing with what i am saying is taking the coils out from between the cams and away from the heat. As slip mentioned commodores have multiple coils in one pack, and id gather you could again use the existing amplifier box to trigger the coils.

the little black box that sits on the spark plug cover is an electronic distributor of sorts isnt it? surely you could use this. If you connected the the triggering wires that go to your coil packs to external regular style coils then run the spark plug lead from that to its assosiated plug, would this not work? fair enough the 6 regular style coils would take up some space and look a bit ugly but surely it can be done.

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just take it to an aircon joint and get it regassed, the only problems you'll have is that perhaps you may have the old gas (r12?) and need to change the fittings to take the new gas (r145A?) AND/OR the valves inside may have become brittle from not having gas in them and died or the mechanical seal on the compressor may need replacing. as for the jap air cons not being able to handle the heat here and dying, i find that hard to believe cus i think it can get pretty warm over there (like upto 35?). what they might have meant was the compressors arent as big in japanese cars as it doesnt get as hot over there as it does here, therefore the aircon doesnt work quite as well as say an australian delivered car.

wire #53 is the speed sensor wire to the ECU that people normally cut #31, #32 and #34 have nothing to do with speed sensing

Rally WRX

im thinking of buying one of these manuals but have seen a couple of negative comments about them. Has anyone bought or had a good look at one yet and be able to tell me what they are like and if they are worth the money? PS. i suppose any negative comments about them should be PM'd to me

sprayed and sanded back?? how doees that get SKYLINE lit up on the back of your car? - someone explain it please? im interested in how this is done