Jump to content
SAU Community

Al

Members
  • Posts

    7,793
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Al

  1. Nice work. Still considered a modification though.
  2. What a great range of devices. Great work buddy all the best.
  3. The hole you intend to cut must be in the top half of the std air box, above the filter (the lid). If you cut the hole on the bottom of the air box, and use a pipe to dirrect air from the bumper to the box, the engine will be sucking in unfiltered and un-metered (if still using afm) air; Bad news for turbo and engine.
  4. All the info you can even want are on these forums
  5. '93 and '94 look identical, expect the early '93 that have the other type of front bar
  6. Car is a '93 or '94 model - Seat belts are manufactured by another business, so they can be done in advance. - The engine has the coil igniter modual, on the top, at the rear (near the firewall), which only came out in '93 or '94 cars. - Has the S1 rear spoiler - No airbag
  7. Doesn't sound normal to me, especially with a standard car. It either has modifications that you are unaware of (bigger turbo, ecu, etc) or there is a fault/leak. I have a HKS GTRS turbo, making 255rwkw, and once power is made there is no noticable lag between gears. A standard turbo is on full boost by 3000rpm, so stating that there is lag at 5K is surprising.
  8. Had no problems running the program
  9. Al

    Deca Promo

    Absolutely awesome!!! If that was released on TV, DECA will be sold out within 30secs. TOP WORK!!
  10. Program works for me. - Right click on link - Select "Open Link in New Window" - Press "OK" - Highlight all files and select "extract all files" then just follow the prompts. Now please explain what i am looking at; how it works; what it controls; how it operates. As i have no idea Looks good though.........
  11. I was under the impression that the whole craddle had to be lowered to install the top pinapples. I used to have really hard coil-overs (Kei office) when i first bought my car, really bad for the street as it use to skip when hitting a bump. The last thing i wanted to do was go hard round corners, hit a small bump/imperfection mid-corner and have the ass end skipping sideways . For the last 4yrs i have been using an Australian manufactured coil-over, Hot Bits, stupid name but great product and works well with the Whiteline Handling pack. Do you ever disconnect your sway-bars for drag racing? I have been tempted to do so, but could not be bothered, let alone installing the extra 2 pinapples for drag racing
  12. Serious! I honestly thought they were solid. Damn Nissan were Soooooooooooooooo far ahead of the Austrlian manufacturers
  13. Rev210, i was simply refering to Robo's car being set up for street/drag.I have a full whiteline handling kit, with optioned pinapples and camber bushes. I'd like to think my car is set up for circuit/motokahna/drift, so the pinapples have been installed for "all round performance" and not only for "grip", which changes the angle of the craddle. My initial point i was trying to make was that a well set-up suspension will get you much more than "2 tenths" down the 1/4 mile (as Ash has stated). I believe it will get you closer to 8 tenths or more; as off the line traction/launch is the most crutial element of drag racing. Also i still say that a solid diff/axle set up (non IRS) will have more traction than IRS, therefore the R31 is better suited. With IRS the best setup would be to have +ve camber at the rears, so that when the car squates, on take off, the wheels will pull in and effectivly have 0deg camber, thus having the full face of the tyre in contact with the tarmac. With my car i have -1deg at the rear (for circuit, etc), so when i launch and the ass end squates, this -ve camber increases, thus resulting in less tyre contact on the road. Having lowered suspension also doesn't help the situation, as there is less travel. I occationally like doing drags as i do enjoy it, especially with the slicks I dodn't treat it seriously as my car is not set up for it. Just like to get out there and have a blast in a controlled environment :sorcerer: .
  14. Totally diferent car and suspension set-up
  15. "Easy-out": Is the name of a tool, is available in various sizes to suit various sized studs. It is like a Tapping tool but with a reverse thread that stops half way. You drill a correct size hole, "tap" the easy-out (turn in a reverse thread), once the easy-out bottoms out on the stud it starts to unwind the stud out of the thread. Detail Report: - Use a centre punch to carefully make a dent in the centre of the broken stud - Carefully drill into the stud, using an adequately sized drill bit. Make sure the drill bit goes in straight and square. - Tap in easy-out and remove stud. Due to the confinement of the engine bay, this is ALOT harder than how it reads, but is done on a daily basis by all good mechanics
  16. Hands off my trophy! Hoping to make it, as usual depends on work, if not i'll pic it up another time.
  17. All good mechanics can do it easily. Just punch stud, drill, insert "easy-out", remove Lenish the face (using a large and decent, bench belt sander) of manifold to remove any "bow", as this will cause more studs to break
  18. I have already admitted my car's suspension set-up is totally wrong for drag racing, but i still like to get out there once in a blue moon, just for fun. Ash: Your R31 is actually better suited for drag, as the rear wheels do not camber in on launches, thus has more rubber on the road, thus has better traction
  19. spot on.If i was to remove sway-bars, strut braces, and revamp my suspenion set-up, i think there would be a very low 12.
  20. Actually there are 3 differant types and one wont work with another
  21. Suspension will get you alot more than that! I regard suspension to be one of the most important features for a drag car. A 2wd car setup for circuit is crap for drags, just look at my car.
  22. cool
  23. Al

    Birthday Beers

    Old man's 60th on Sat. Have a good one Ash! and Happy b'day.
  24. Semi's are for traction (ie:circuit), but decent tyres are used by the pro's. With the RB25 at the front you have totally upset the "ballance" of the car. It is now more front heavy, engine overhangs the wheels further, and the centre of gravity is a little higher. When drifting, BALLANCE IS VERY IMPORTANT. Stick with the SR!
×
×
  • Create New...