Al

These two points are pretty major. One may think number 6 could only be an alignment, but it could also be the HICAS playing up. Causing the rear end to be "floaty" and majorly diminishing the handling. R33's are in abundance, why bother buying someone elses problems when you can find a clearner example for the same price .

Wolf3D V4, Rb25, HKS GTRS, Cams, Head porting, 550cc inj, etc. V500 just been released and is much better than the V4

Happy b'day buddy!! Got in by 1 min.

None keep looking. If you are looking for a Skyline with log books, fat chance. These are 10+yr old imported cars, most don't come with log books from Japan to begin with. Sounds like you may be a novice at this, may be a good idea to take a car, you are interested in buying, to a good mechanic to check it over for you.

Sicaflex; it will never move I hit a possim at about 20km/h (under brakes), the mesh was damaged but the sicaflex never broke bond with the bar; saved my fmic.

Not a fan myself, but it's your car, so only your opinion matters

Should really get them check out by your mechanic. The squek can be you turbo on it's way out The vibration can be worn idler pulleys or worn belt. If either of these two fail the engine will require a complete rebuild, including the head. These of course are worse case senarios, but no-one will be able to diagnose over the net, plenty could have a guess though

So does the plenum above use the factory fuel rail, etc.? Also how does the Throtte Body bolt up to the plenum as the second pic does not have a flange? Unless he makes a flange to order

Agreed

Damn Troy you really know how to confuse a man, now i really don't know what to do I refuse to take the car to Racebrakes, as they are a total bunch of knobs, so who else can sort out my issue? Sounds like i am better off putting my GTSt calipers and rotors back on, as from you are saying any upgrade will give me hassles . So am i better off trying the DS2500 at the fronts? Wouldn't this cause the car to dip harder at the front?

SXY unable to see pics, can you post them up in here?

If i upgrade the master cylinder, do i need to upgrade the booster?

I really like the kit, but you must get the rear pods and bar to suit, otherwise it looks out of proportion Just my opinion

This was my 32 before i upgraded to the 33. She was ok, had less power and very laggy. Pretty good on fuel though

I am a little confused myself Maybe because i initially thought my front brakes were clamping more strongly, shifting weight too quickly to the front, thus getting the rear light and twichy. What i am reading (and please correct me if i am wrong) is that the rears are too pinchy and are locking up, causing the ass end to slide round. I have just recently bought the Ferado's DS2500, but have not put these on as i was thinking that they will make the situation worse. But you are saying it will probably improve the situation. Either was it looks like i am better off buying R33 GTR rear calipers, with DBA4000 GTR slotted rear rotors, to match the front. What rear pads shall i use? Thanks to ALL for your advise, and keep it coming PS: Anyone wrecking a 33GTR with rear Brembos and Master slave cylinder and booster?

I have just upgraded my R33 GTSt front brakes to R33 GTR Brembos with DBA5000 rotors and Greenstuff pads. My rears remain R33 GTSt with DBA4000 rotors and comp3 pads. On a couple of occations, under hard braking, i have found the the rear is getting "floaty" and starts to come round. Thus the car is getting unsettled. Never had this problem b4 the upgrade and can only put it down to a possible incorrect brake bias; the fronts are overpowering the rears. Just would like to know if there is any differance between R33 GTR and GTSt rear brake set-ups? If placing GTR rear brakes, on my GTSt, will correct the bias issue and improve braking? If i also need to change the brake master cylinder? Thanks Alan

Funny how you never come to any SAU cruises

Happy B'day Rossco! Hope you had a good one.

If you look under your bonnet there is a peice of paper stuck to the lining, it states the gap to be 1.1mm. So the cars were made for 1.1mm gap. But you up boost, power, etc. then everything else needs to change. Splitfires, 0.8mm gap and you shouldn't have any issues.

Come to the dark side Troy..................... i know you want to

Great..........as usual

Those clips were great, thanks Chris.

Ant you PIMP!! Use, abuse, then dump her for a younger, faster model You feel sad now but that will quickly pass once you are behind the wheel of you new GTR. She looks awesome!!, gotta take me for a spin if you have time in Melb Stay safe buddy and see ya soon!

Forgive me is i sound stupid, but is that $156ea AUD, delivered, by sea mail? (+postage from you to me) If that is the case i definately want one

Should look good Pat!!!