Al

WTF!!$315 for 17", i paid $300 for my 19's.

My vote is for dark spokes with polished dish/lip

Please do a SEARCH.............

Sorry to hear Buddy . So what is your next car going to be, another 32? Hope you have the phone numbers of witnesses, just incase he trys to do a shifty and say you ran the red.

Primordial: Nah it's fine. As stated the arm moves up/down with the wheel. Have never scraped that arm as there is no scuffs on the metal, have rubbed the inside gaurd liner though , but that was due to having 245's at the front (now 235) and a slightly lower ride. Nope..............Has actually corrected the factory error Have tested it on a dyno and on the Hwy's, when my needle is spot on 100 i am actually doing 98km/h .

Just to clarify: This is not a offical SAU VIC event Whatever "membership" is being offered has NOTHING to do with SAU VIC. D e z, if you can answer all of Bec's questions that would be great, as it is a little confussing at this stage.

Would like that Ian. My car should be ready in about two weeks, but i have been saying that for the last 2.5 weeks . Send back that PM i just gave you, it is just to remind me, should i forget.

I am positive you wrote that, and i am not that keen to do a search to try and find it. If it is wrong that fact is now corrected

Lazy on idle as the pulse is soo short, especially with larger capacity injectors. The diagnoses found that if the injectors where given a tiny fraction more time impulse the problem cleared. That is why i had to send the injectors to a specialist, as these have to be tested at very low impulses and there are only a very few in VIC that could do such a test. In our previous discussion you stated that the Pfc has only 6 load points and (i quote) "you can not see how a Wolf can have or use 16 load point". If you need an explanation of what a "load point" is please ask a tunner as i do not have the technical knowledge to explain it properly .

Thanks Ian, your added info on MAF sensor explains a few things Paul will be happy The change in resolution is done via the s/ware. I honestly have no idea how it is done, but even Steve confirmed that this is possible. My starting and idling problems are due to my injectors and the poor tune as a result. Hopefully this will all get fixed soon, as mentioned above.

2 lazy SARD 550cc injectors This prevented my mechanic to tune the idle and cold start properly, which then fouled up the plugs and possibly my O2 sensor/s . Start-up was gradually getting worse. Have sent all my injectors to be thoughly tested, cleaned and if required reco'ed. If i still have a problem after this i am going to try another tunner. My mechanic is GREAT with tools and fabrication, but that doesn't make him a great tunner . He has used a valid excuse, as Steve from AEM (he designed the Wolf3D), came down to help my mechanic (Vic started to pull his hair out ) and after much testing diagnoised the fault.

Thanks Paul, even when i don't want to talk about Wolf you know how to push my buttons PIN Lock: If you have the wolf hand controller, there is a PIN security feature that disables the injectors till the PIN # has been entered. Pfc Knock Sensor: RB's come with knock sensors from factory, even though the pfc displays knock it does not do anything with the reading to minimise knock on a hot day. The wolf also uses these knock sensors, but does not display the amount of knock. The wolf will retard ignition if it detects too much knock (so i have been told). Air Temp Compensation: If the Pfc had air temp compensation (on the rb25) why isn't there an air temp sensor, and why do you get more knock on a hot day? The rb25 never came factory with air temp sensors, so the pfc can not compensate for air temp. Even though the Wolf is PNP, an air temp sensor has to be installed b4 the throttle body, usually fited onto the i/c piping just after the fmic. The Wolf does compensate for air temp by retarding the ignition. Wolf3D has 16 tunning load points, Pfc only has 6. Wolf3D can be tunned per 125rpm, Pfc by 250rpm. But the Wolf also has the capability to tune finner down low by sacrificing fine tunning (wich is not really required) up top. ie: Between 500-2000rpm you can tune by 50rpm increments and reduce the resolution between 5000-7500rpm to 250rpm. The Pfc is much easier to tune, especially for idle and a/c rpm controll, but a GOOD Wolf tunner will be able to get the low rpm pretty damn stable. Wolf generally needs an extra crank or two in the morning (cold start); it will start on first turn, just need to hold it that fraction longer. As i stated previously, please do a SEARCH on "Wolf3D", as this has already been extensively debated multiple time.

Are you building a car for drag or a engine for power. Before you touch the engine spend the money on suspension, you'll get much better results. You'll need: - 10/40 coilovers/shocks - Good drag rubber - remove strut braces - modify sway-bars to increase body roll (ie: smaller/thinner sway bars) - replace bushes with Whiteline "handling pack" and get a set of "pinapples"-set them for drag. - etc, etc, etc. The car will handle like a boat and would be shit round corners, but would be awesome in a staright line. Alot of people are under the illusion power=good time. When my car was lightly moded 3yrs ago (exhaust, ecu, fmic, coilovers, the usual first mods @ 180rwkw) i ran a best of 13.4sec. Since then i have modified my car for street/track, so i concintrated alot on stiffing the suspension. Went to Heathcote 2 months ago (now have cams, hi-flow, circuit tuned suspension, 250rwkw, etc) i ran a best time of 15.5sec. Yes i was disappointed, but i knew my car has been set up to go round a track and turn corners, so off the start i either broke traction or boged down.

Re-wording what i stated above . You existing exhaust, that bolts onto your std turbo, will NOT need to be modified and WILL bolt straight onto the HKS GTRS, same as you existing i/c pipes and your existing airbox/pod. This kit is a direct replacement and come with new oil/water lines and everthing else you need Here is a graph of my current hi-flow, not sure where the hi-flow was done, but it has been done properly as checked by ATP (Melbourne's equivalent to GCG). Pete's dyno is a GCG hi-flow, with a much better tune, but the characteristics are the same. We both have cams, but i also have head porting.

The law states the the complete rolling diameter (tyres included) must not exceed 20mm larger than factory. Having extremely low profile will possible scrap in, but the ride will be serverly sacrificed. I would think that getting an engineers could overcome this. Honestly it is best to ring Vicroads or DOTARS and just ask, they are not going to hunt you down, or maybe the will If you are refering to my sig, the lights look smokey due to the resizing of the resolution, they are actually quite clear, and i like to keep them that way . If you want your h'lights to go that smokey/yellowy colour, leave it in direct sunlight, eventually they will fade over time. Not sure why you would want them that colour Just found a pic to justify why you shouldn't get 20's. Using the same profile for my tyres as a typical 18" rim, this is how close my tyre gets to the upper controll arm. The tyre will never hit as the arm moves up/down with the wheel. But it is damn close and i wouldn't want to get closer.

Bullshit I should get close to the 300rwkw with using factory manifold and internal gate, the only thing that will hold me back is the std bottom end Many others have also achieved more than 300rwkw with std manifold and internal gate.

That's why i went for the HKS (read my first post), yes it is $700 more but if you can save this little extra, the rewards are two-fold. I found my hi-flow very laggy and others have also said the same. Once my car is finished (looks like another 2 weeks ) i will post up a comparison between my hi-flow and the newly installed GTRS.

That list sounds pretty sound, just one thing i would advise you against.If a "hiflow" is going to cost you nearly $2k, i would prefer to buy a HKS GTRS Kit or a Garrett equivalent. Yes they are a little more expensive but they are REALLY worth the extra $$$'s. With the Garrett, make sure you price in a heavier boost actuator, oil/water lines, exhaust mods, etc. The HKS GTRS Kit is purely a bolt on affair and comes with ALL necessary pieces. It is designed to bolt on to the factory airbox, factory intercooler and factory exhaust; but you'll be stupid to replace the turbo without a hiflow (3"min) exhaust system and FMIC. Just my 2c , from someone that has learnt the expensive way .

Read the post properly, Sydneykid is just saying the Wold ecu is AS shit as the Power FC when running auto's. Does not mean the Pfc is any better Do a SEARCH, has been discussed multiple times, especially between Paul and myself I have used the Wolf3D for years, and would not consider using a PowerFC as i believe, through my experience, that the Wolf has more features, tunability and engine safety. At the end of the day it is only as good as your tunner and there is alot of tunners making the Wolf look bad

Price must be posted, as per forum rules. Thanks

When you say "got the head machined" what exactly was done and by whome?

NO 20's!!!!!! Makes the Skyline look like 4x4 spec, and you can't "dump it on it's nutz" as the wheels will majorly rub on the inside of the gaurds.

May be worth PM'ing the person that quoted that price. I go to Bob Jane T-mart in Taylors Lakes and paid $300ea for K-104s in 235/35R19

Thanks Pete!!

33GTR wheels will stick out of your front gaurds.