Al

Happy B'day buddy!! Hopefully you are not working tooooo late tonight.

No need for your semi's mate, i have my own .Really happy to hear my car made such a good impresion on you . I will give you another drive, at the next DECA, to get your opinion of my latest upgrades . Car wont be ready for another two weeks . Just keeps getting better . Bris, surely your set-up would be BETTER? PS: I have read this thread for the first time, today.

*OFF TOPIC - Your PM box is full * Hi Charles, When can i expect to recieve my rims (s/h:17in track rims)? Hopefully i don't sound pushy, just would like to know when to call my mechanic to see if they have arrived. He may not like it if i called him every day Thanks Alan

What i highlighted in red is compressor surge. Only occurs on partial throttle and acts fine on full throttle. I think a misfire would also occur, if not get worse, under full throttle.

Ryan!! I know you have alot of footage

It is called "compressor surge", sounds like an atmo BOV but when you are on the power and does not happen on FULL throttle. Unfortunately there are are few things that can cause this. 1/ The type of boost controller 2/ The turbo actuator 3/ ECU tunning 4/ The turbo. First two are obvious; try an electronic boost controller (EBC) and fit a new turbo actuator. Unless you have a friend that lets you borrow parts off his car you may buy both items and still have the problem . ECU Tunning: Some people have managed to remove or reduce the surge with more tunning. Not sure what needs to be done, but i have read that the tune can remove some/all of the surging problems. The turbo: This usually happens with a "hi-flow" turbo. The turbine wheels used are mis-matched or slightly too big for the housing. This makes the turbo compress too much air for the engine, thus bounces back into the turbine. Also test you BOV. Remove it and block the hole (temporarily). Go for a drive and see if the "surge" occurs. I am not a mechanic, just what i have learnt through my experience, forums and chatting to various people. I had the same problem; this surge and the excessive lag (550hp hi-flow) made me buy a genuine HKS turbo, problem solved......... . Good luck.

Good chance i will be working at Calder on Friday night. If you see a big guy at Credentials, don't forget to say hi

^^ You should be right to paint/powder coat over the old paint. Make sure you thoughly degrease the rims and give them a light sand.

SAU VIC is the biggest chapter of SAU Just spoke to the guys and they are entering as their own club "DRAGON". Not sure if i am going yet, but if i do i will prefer to enter with SAU , i will keep you posted.. Jameszilla (James) is the person to PM for the SAU VIC banner. We also have merchandise , nothing better than representing your club by wearing club polos/t-shirts .

$5 If you don't like that, best follow the rules and post up a price.....

A senario...... You have everything assembled, crank the engine a few times, i assume you get nothing apart from the starter motor turning the flywheel. You then remove the spark plugs, what is the condition of the tips? 1/ Clean and dry - lack of fuel; injectors 2/ Black and fouled - Too much fuel; ECU tunning 3/ Clean but wet (with fuel) - No spark; Coils, plugs, module, ignition, etc. Tell us which option, above, is occuring. Ash is correct, new injectors need a complete and full re-tune of the ecu, as the standard injector setting would have too big a time pulse thus flooding the engine with fuel.

Well a few Skylines from my mechanic's w/shop are comming up to enter this year, as they just missed the Melbourne A.S. Would you allow us to join your stand? If i come i think there will be at least 4 Skylines. Not sure if they want to enter on their own though, so i will keep you posted : .

The person that bought your TE37's is not interested in a new set of CE28N? Maybe you can swap with him.

I want one!!

On a 32 it is a lot harder as the letters are imbedded into the bar and the bar is not transparent. You will need to cut out each letter carefully (very hard), then fix a red diffuser behind the letters and seal them, then place the LED's behind that. A lot of work I decided to use it as a night light as the LED's are not bright enough during the day, certainly not good enough as a third brake light. Also the police may state that the "flashing" letters (when in traffic and appling brakes numerous times) will be a distraction to other motorists. Good Luck PS: Funkymonkey has made the SKYLINE backlight for the his previous R32, maybe he can help you out.

Here is my "SKYLINE" backlight. This is how i done it myself The "SKYLINE" facia (S1 R33) was first sprayed the same colour as my car. It is advisable to use a few coats of black paint, then spray your colour as required. The black paint should not allow the light to come through. I then used my Dremal tool to cut out the rear plastic of the facia. Do not attempt to pry the facia apart, you will only end up cracking the plactic. Then i used a sharp blade, off a Stanly knife (remove the blade from the Stanley knife), to carefully cut off the paint from each letter. (Not as hard/long as i thought it would be ). Using a Jaycar "bread board" and my electronic experience, i positioned two hi-intensity LEDs, in series with resistors, in between each letter. This was done to try and minimize the focus of the LEDs. YES, it is damn bright . It may also help to file the top of the LED's, this will disperse the light better. It is now ready to be secured into position, I just used some 'Locktite 406' super glue and a small plastic tab at each end. Once fixed, i coated/sealed the rear facia with a good layer of sicaflex, to ensure it is as water resistant as the original. I had to remove one of the 4 mounting bolts to allow the wires to enter the boot. Using a multimeter i found the wire that lights the night lights and spliced the 12V wires to it. The ground wire was bolted to an existing ground point. Sorry, i forgot what colour the 12V supply wire is . Hope that helps Good Luck Alan

R33 never came with dash dimmers, all are required to be fitted with a dimmer for compliance, that's why they look so cheap and shit.

Can't answer your other questions, sorry You have my graph, ask Dave (silva33) to post up his graph and compare the differance. Also Paul (paulr33) has accumulated a comparison of each turbo and plotted all the results (using people's own graphs) on the one chart. This will give you a good "indication" about the characteristics of the differant turbos, on a RB25.

Still waiting... Unfortunately you had a major falling out with Vic, but I heard two different sides to the story. Before the parting you were very close to Vic and George, so if you have anything else to add I am more than willing to listen. As the falling out between both of you was personal, I decided to keep out of it and hopefully remain friends with both yourself and Vic. To date I am yet to see/hear any justification why I should go elsewhere. His work has been A1 with reasonable prices, and my car has been proven to be a very neat and strong formula. Not saying he is perfect, as every one/shop has a few irritating moments, but at the end of the day the "whole picture" is completed to a very high standard. If you have any information to the contrary I would really appreciate it if you told me directly, and in private.

Finally i picked mine up from work. All is good . All i need now is my car back from the mechanic's

Sounds like you have been going to the wrong mechanics, don't put everyone under the same banner . Not all good, honest, mechanics charge top dollar How many people here can honestly say they have only used the one same mechanic for the last 6yrs, and not just to do oil changes, i am talking serious modifications.

Just found the details, ask for Tim do the powder coating. T&C Powder Coating Contact: Tim (owner) Tel: 9338 6631 Add: 12 Marshall Rd, Airport West. Just got a quote to powder coat a new set of 18" rims (no prep work required), using gloss black, $120 for all four rims . If the rims need to be sand-blasted, etc, it will obviously cost more.

lol!

Does you Stagea have the Neo6 engine? If so your turbo, with a GCG hi-flow upgrade, would be exactly like Pete's, as his was done by GCG. If you have a S1, then a GCG hi-flow will have a smaller exhaust housing, like mine was b4 i upgraded it to a VG30 ext housing (which is the same size as a R34 GTT housing). With more weight and four wheel traction, the turbo would probably come on a little earlier, due to extra load. Once boost hits, it will not kick out as a Gts-t does, so it may not be as bad. PM Dave (Silva33) for more info about the GT2535, i beleive he made a very strong 240rwkw. Unfortunately i didn't get a chance to drive his car b4 the accident, but he has driven mine. His comments about my set-up where repeated several times by other ppl, "The power is like a light switch; nothing till 4k rpm then instant 250rwkw". My combo, with Tomei poncams and head porting made 274rwkw@17psi, but we lowered the boost to protect the std bottom end. Considering the GT2535 made about 240ish on a stock engine, i beleive it has the same potential to make as much power as my hi-flow, while maintaining GREAT response. These are just my thought. My experience with hi-flows have left me far from impressed, even though i am grinning from ear to ear when i eventually hit boost . Mind you, my tune left alot to be desired

Pretty sure, i knew Vic, the previous Xtreme distributor . By no means i am talking down Racepace, as Ben excells in this industry and has proven his 'formula' is a very reliable package. But a clutch is a clutch, you buy a good quality item and it sure will be reliable, nothing too special about it.