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Everything posted by Al
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I hope you are changing your oil every 5,000km....
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Easier to do, than what you think
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Sounds like the belt was changed at 92,000km and is due for a replacement at 192,000km. Question is; How amny km's did it do after the change and b4 the odo was wound back?
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If the actuator/wastegate was "open" full time the turbo would not boost, thus no harm to the engine. Still a very stupid fault from a turbo manufacturer.
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if i had kids, I would never buy them a new car. I would just buy them a cheap reliable car, so they can build up their driving experience. If they don't like it then they can work and save for their own choice of car. Just my 2c
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If anyone is in Victoria, i strongly beleive ATP is just as good
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My combo is currently making 274rwkw@16psi with VG30 ext. housing, cams and head porting, on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno. I opted to stop there as my bottom end is still standard, in fact i lowered the boost a fraction to keep it at 260rwkw. As nice as that sounds the turbo will probably not make your "expected" figure, as i beleive it will run past it's effiency range well before then. I would estimate a hi-flow combo is probably good for about 290rwkw, maybe 300 max. More boost=more heat=declining power line. These turbos were not designed to run such high psi, yes they have been upgraded, etc., but they are still just a small factory turbo. But hey, i wish you all the best.
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How fresh is the engine and is there receipts for the claimed work? If the engine is newly fresh, the last thing you want to do is keep it at a constant rpm for prolonged periods. Just my 2c
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Just some further question, from a novice Barely street legal tyres, such as Mickey Thompsons (sp?) and Nitto's, are still rigid enough to run daily standard/road front tyres, as these are still classified as a street legal tyre? It is only when you go to a full drag tyre that you need to comply with the regs?
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Reading the discription, I would have thought fuel pump. See if you can get it flow AND pressure tested.
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As if you wouldn't do the burn-outs anyway .
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What Color Should I Go With?
Al replied to brother_david's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Thanks Very different to the std burgundy, have absolutely no regretes.. Colour is actually a factory Ford US paint: 1998 Ford Mustang, Laser Red (3-layer Perl) -
What Color Should I Go With?
Al replied to brother_david's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Nothing wrong with red, especially if it has a bright red pearl I've had nothing but great comments about my car, after i resprayed it and powder coated the rims a metallic charcol Here are some more pics from the 2006 GP AutoSalon, Mavric's yellow bannana also looks great http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/pics/grand...h30/page_02.htm -
You would be much better off buying a new set of Australian spec suspension. I use to have Kai Office coil-overs, hard as a rock, bounced/skipped all over the road, very hard to drive. They blew, i rebuilt them and they blew again 12 months latter. I decided to gamble on a then unknown Victorian company, Hot Bits, and i couldn't be happier. First talked to them at a motorsport expo and they offered to re-valve all 4 coil-overs, for free, if i wasn't comfortable with how the car handled; i never took up with the offer as the handling was great, and ride was very comfortable and yeilding. There are others on the market that are better, worse or just as good, you just need to do your research. My experience is with Hot Bits and i am very satisfied with them, they even preform great on the track, accompanied with the Whiteline "Handling Pack". Here is their web site: http://www.hotbits.com.au/
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woohoo!!
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G4 Racing 8 Piston Brake Upgrade Kits
Al replied to Just Jap Racing's topic in For Sale (Business Traders)
What are the width of the rotors? ie:28,32.....? Are you able to supply kits with 355mm rotors? Just expanding on what Rowdyr32 asked -
Whether you see/beleive it or not, it has been tested and proven on a R32 GTR. (Just like the increased resolution of load points on the Wolf3D ecu ) I have stated before that Pfc is capable of air temp compensation, but is not available for 33's. Can't understand why Apexi did not use a seperate "optional" connection/sensor to make it work, if the ecu is capable. Is it just 33 GTS-t's that don't have the air temp sensors, or all RB engines?
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Great to see you made your decision and getting the Pfc at a great price, but i really hope you have not been mis-informed with part "(b)". I have used the wolf for years and have never ever heard anything about it's processing speed. Would like to know who has this technical information and how it effects the real-time operation of the engine. I hope the person feeding you this info is not partial to the Pfc or wants to gain financially by presenting false stats. How can the ecu use pre-determined air temps if the weather/climate/humidity changes from day to day? The wolf only uses the inlet air temp sensor as a compensation tool, if the inlet temp is too hot the ecu will automatically retards the timing. The Pfc does not has this feature for the RB's, thus will simply knock alot more, unless you manually retard the timing, like some people do. Side note: I know Ben has no idea about the Wolf, he only touched one once and doesn't know any of it's features. I had a chat to Ben once and all he said was "wolf is shit" when asked why and what technecally makes the wolf shit he simply couldn't reply. Any tunner will be biased to their prefered ecu, it is up to the user to filter all the bull shit . I would probably put money on the fact that Ben would hate the Pfc Dejaro(sp?) as tunning is completely different to the std Pfc and is alot closer to the Wolf style of tunning. It was also written that greater power was extracted using the Pfc MAP ecu rather than the Pfc MAF ecu (Published in HPI?). Even though it may appear opposite, i have nothing to gain from promoting the Wolf ecu. I have purchased it at full price and continue to pay for my tunning. I just like to state my "experiences" with the wolf ecu, when others are stating unfounded opinions. Take it as you may and i wish you well with your choice of ecu's .
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From all the information and ppl's personal experiences i have heard/discussed, Ben's tunning has been the most stable, by far... This is not to say that Ben has not had his own glitches (just like any other w/shop) but he has excelled in Pfc tunning. There may also be other w/shops/tunners i have not heard of yet.
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I have no problem with ppl "voicing their opinions", but when people state something as fact, when that statement is basically false, can't be proven or plucked from thin air, then i like to set the record straight. If you don't know something, don't comment on/aggainst it, as it will simply mis-lead the person asking the question. You may know the Pfc much better than the average person, but you have admitted to knowing nothing of the Wolf. As you are not a qualified electronic/programming/automotive engineer i fail to see how you can comment on the operations of the Wolf, including it's tunning resolutions. I have the software at home and have been in the car while it was getting tunned and can confirm that more than 6 load bands are used; also note that not even the Pfc uses all 6 of it's load bands.
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Am i too late? Was at the Melb GP and away for work all last week. Is it possible to add me to the list, please? Thanks Alan
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Those restrictors are very common on various makes of Japan exhaust systems. Sounds like the previous owner got done with epa and decided to comply and lessen the db levels. Unfortunately, it really restricts mid to high rev performance. The solution is as easy as cutting the welds off and removing the restrictor, but the db level will increase dramatically.
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Great weekend ppl, finally managed to see a little bit of the race today, even though i was there for all 4 days . Congrates to Jack, James and Dane on taking home the trophies. Thanks to all for a great long weekend, just need to let my stomache seatle after 4 days of continuous drinking
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Hope to see ya at a cruise soon!!!