Al

Definitely not a '96, sorry to disappoint you. Looks like a '93 or '94 with a S2 front slapped on it. As stated motor has the igniter module, seats are S1 ('95 max) and the steering wheel "appears" to have no air bag as it would have gone off in the accident. I would say it is most probably a '93.

Just shows they are the weapon of choice.....

What an awesome cruise and great bunch of members!!! One of the most enjoyable cruises i had in a long time, well worth the overnight stay. Will definately be doing it again next year. Got a few nice pics, will post them up some time this week. Thanks to ALL, really represented SAU well. Hope to see ya all again soon. Alan

Just like to clear up an issue.. All fuel pumps suck from the bottom of the tank, so letting it go low is not going to suck anything else from the bottom. BUT.... Letting the fuel go low may cause fuel surges/starvation when cornering and driving hard. Which in turn, may damage you engine. ALSO... You run the risk of burning out your pump, as the fuel acts as a coolant. When the fuel is low the pump is exposed and will be running at a higher temp. Just my input.

Is the car a '93 or '94 model?

Happy B'day buddy!!

Hey Adz, Just b4 i started my second run, at the Long Wang, you came over with a vid cam. Did you record my run by any chance? I really want to see the footage as i nailed the hook turn through the gates .

Thanks Dave!! Looks like i was mis-informed by Sam about my time on the Long Wang Still was a great improvement from my results at the previous DECAs In may i will be fitting my semi comps, all i need then is a less laggier turbo

Happy B'day Jackie!! All the best.

Happy birthday Tash!! So what goodies did you get for your car this year

Can someone please email me the results, as these types of links don't work on my computer for some stupid reason.

What a great weekend!! Big thanks to organisers and volunteers, without their hard work the event wouldn't have gone so smoothly. I had a blast and finally figured out my gearing around the pan, due to the laggier turbo. Hopefully my times will reflect my improvement . To all those with pics, footage, etc, don't be shy POST THEM UP!!! :lol:

There is a spare bed in my cabin if you still need one.

Prefer new, but a good as new item will be accepted, provided all parts are included. Please PM or add new post in this topic Thanks Alan

As topic states, looking for a 25 box in good condition at a reasonable price. Please PM me or add post to this topic. Thanks Alan

Munro and Keir are well respected for their acheivements, but this isn't about drags, money, mechanical experience, best cars, etc. Just need two influential reps from each state, who are willing to put in a little effort and help organise something that will go down in SAU's Historic moments

That's ghey.....

Just to expand on what 2rismo has stated. Approx for every 3db, you double the sound level. So your car is almost 4 times louder than what is legally allowed. But i do understand how you feel. My exhaust was very loud, i have since chaged it 3 times. I use to have a hi-flow CAT and connon muffler only. I now have a hi-flow CAT, two old-style shape (hi-flow) mufflers and one long resonator, and i have a feeling that i may still be over the limit .

Great car, congrates!! Don't worry about a pod filter, it's definately not a restriction, till you start making big kw (220+), just put a top quality filter in the std box.

Updated

Try a Nissan Dealership...........

Just the way i like it; with pletty of girls sitting in the passenger seats You can keep playing with wands :lol:

Congrates buddy, all the best!!!

Thanks guys. I was sick of my silver coloured rims looking white in photo's, refer to sig, so when i got the car painted i powder coated the rims

The only way to "hide" a FMIC is to paint it satin black, then put black mesh in front of it. But why "hide" it in the first place . I just prefer to spend $30 to replace the mesh rather than $200 to replace the fmic. nsta You need; - Two different lengths of wood (thick, strong pieces). One the size of you horizontal sides (top/bottom), the other the size of your vertical sides (left/right) - Masking tape - Two big G-clamps - Rubber hammer - 3 large pop-rivits - 3 strips of sheetmetal. Approx. 1" x 2" , with a hole (the size of the pop-rivits) drilled through the middle - Tube of Automotive Sikaflex - Side cutters (assuming it is aluminium mesh) - A large table covered with some thick soft blankets (make sure the top layer is not your best blanket ) - Work bench - A mate to give you an extra pair of hands Now i am only going off memory from when i did mine 10 months ago 1/ Place bar face down on table 2/ Place mesh sheet over hole, then cut mesh to size, leaving at least a 1" overhang all round (a 2" overhang on top is better) 3/ Starting with the bottom, use the masking tap to mark the edge of the hole. Take mesh to work bench, line marked edge, on mesh, with edge of workbench, place wood on top of mesh, also at the marked edge. Use the G-clamp to firmly clamp the wood to the bench, ensuring all is still lined up. Use rubber hammer to gently hit the overhang up to a 90deg angle, thus forming the lower lip. 4/ Place mesh back on bar, position properly and cut along the overhang edge, to allow the sides to be folded. 5/ Using step 3/ as a guide, do the same thing for both sides, then the top. Always do only one fold at a time and re-measure the edge of the next overhang after every fold. 6/ Fold the excess, from the corners, over the sides, to form a "tray". I used small cable ties to prevent the flaps from sticking out. The mesh should now fit snug arround the hole. 7/ Remove the mesh, thoughly clean the inside of the bar, where the mesh makes contact to the bar. Position mesh back on bar. 8/ At the top, you should have three plactic tabs. Not sure if they have a hole in each tab already, but if they don't drill a hole in the middle, the same size as your pop-rivits. 9/ Pass the pop-rivit through the bar, then up through the mesh, then through one of your pieces of sheetmetal. Repeat for the other 2 tabs. This is the only pic i can provide to help you 10/ For the other sides (and along the top where possible) pump in the sikaflex, making sure it reaches the bar. Don't be shy, i used a whole tube on mine , just make sure it is not visable from the front. Use a "make shift" scrapper to spread the sikaflex evenly and to push it through the mesh. If you are concerned about the strength, don't be . When i hit the cat/possum the mesh broke along the bottom and side folds. It wasn't easy removing the old mesh and sikaflex 11/ Remount the indicator supports, refit the indicators. and i think that is just about it GOOD LUCK!! Al