Al

It's a long shot............. Do you have an electronic boost controller? If it is firmly attached to the car's body, the clicking noise could easily be caused by the solinoids controlling the boost.

On a standard turbo? i don't think so. He has mentioned a few times that they have replaced the hi-flow with a std turbo, but fault still exists. Having read the other posts i would; 1/ Remove the pin that attaches the actuator arm to the wastegate flap and ensure that flap moves freely. 2/ Then disconnect the exhaust from the dump pipe. ie: remove front pipe, cat and catback system. Have you replaced the hose to the actuator? Have you attached the actuator hose to a differant location?

I like you car, but am not a fan of huge chromies. I would prefer a set of dark spoked rims with a polished dish, in 18" or even 19". 20" is just too big and totally unpractical. At the end of the day it is your car, take pride in it and enjoy it for what you made it into. My 19's have the same rubber profile as 18's, so my ride quality is not compromised, but admittantly i do loose off line performance and some handling, but that's why i have 17's for the track . The 270rwkw helps to get the car moving :lol: Here is a pic of my 'line, wheels aren't dished , but i still love 'em . Here is my car in "TONKA" spec :lol: Using the rims off my mate's Ford XA Coupe

This is a great price.. Take this turbo to ATP(Melb) or GCG(Syd) and get a "sierra/sierra" hi-flow. Whack it on you car, install Tomei Poncams and you should see at least 250rwkw. I have a 33s1, with Tomei Poncams and Head porting, and am making 274rwkw@16psi. Due to std bottom end, i decided not to push the combo any further, till the forgies are installed. Can't wait till i have 20psi, and start to experiment with the adjustable EX and IN cam gears . (PM Bassjunky for details on IN cam gear adjustment , it can be done while still retaining the VCT ) Even in stock form this turbo should make more power on a 33, till you are ready to hi-flow it Good Luck with the sale

nsta, Neat looking car buddy, i/c install looks very good too My mesh saved my i/c from a cat/possum, at about 30km/h. Mesh was replaced (eventually), but i/c wasn't touched .

Thanks guys I too agree, it's very ricey, has no real purpose but to be ricey, but it looks damn good :lol:. Lights are hooked up to the "tail lights" and only come on when the headlights are turned on. Forgot to mention; even though the facia is heavily painted the dots still appeared through the other side. So i stuck some black door jam strips in between each letter, on the inside. I have seen the factory fitted backlight and am not a fan of the green light, especially with my candy red paint :lol:. I chose red to match the tail-lights, hopefully i wont get hassled as i have seen factory cars with the whole tailgate lite up red. Even though i did this myself it is by no means a cheap project. - Facia $40 - Prep (facia was previously poorly painted) and paint $80 - LEDs, resistors, circuit board $50(approx) - Sikaflex $16 - Consumables $5 TOTAL: Approx $190

Last year i had my car painted in a similar colour to a Candy Apple Red. I then bought a spare rear "SKYLINE" facia and had it painted with the car. The project was off and on for some time till now. Last week i decided to complete the facia and mount it on my car. Here is a brief discription of the work invloved and pics of the finished project. After the spare "SKYLINE" facia was colour matched, i first used my Dremal tool to cut out the rear of the facia. In hin-sight it may have been better to complete the unit first, before painting, but time was an issue. Then i used a sharp blade, off a Stanly knife, to gently cut off the paint from each letter. (Not as hard/long as i thought it would be ). Using a Jaycar "bread board" and my electronic experience, i positioned two hi-intensity LEDs in between each letter. This was done to try and minimize the focus of the LEDs. YES, it is damn bright ; i may disconnect one wire and only use one LED between each letter. It is now ready to be secured into position, using "Loctite 406 superglue", then i will coat it with sicaflex to ensure it is as water resistant as the original. As stated above, i used Sikaflex to seal the board into the facia. When mounting the facia i had to remove one of the four bolts to allow the wires to enter the boot. I fastened the ground wires to an existing GND and spliced the +ve wire to the parkers (on the brake light assy). I didn't use any relays as i figured 0.3Amps for the whole circuit isn't a heavy load on the existing factory cabling. Here are the completed pics:

**EDIT: Cabin status updated** 2 whimps have dropped out from DECA , so i now have two spare beds available. PM me if anyone is interested. In my Cabin we have; Myself Tom Jarrod ????????? ?????????

How does 7pm on the Friday arvo sound? Meet at the Shell servo, just past Craigieburn.

Unless you own every model, you have already chosen your favourite

In my cabin i have one single bed available, if anyone is looking for somewhere to sleep on Friday and Saturday nights.

In my cabin i have one single bed available if anyone is looking for somewhere to sleep. Cabin is now full, provided no-one cancells

Assuming you have a garage and the right tools

I am going to tackle your argument in written order, because there is too much info to summarise it all. It is easy to state that I contradicted myself, but you haven't shown me how. I have always stated there is a time and place, were risk is minimised and people's safety is maximised. Driving like a tool with other cars around you is just stupid, then having a go at the cops for rightfully doing there job and expecting others to join in is beyond comprehension. If I have done something wrong I do not / will not slander the entire force for my mistakes. Your previous experiences in court explain you utter lack of resect for the law and other motorists. And encouraging others, with phrases like: to follow your path puts you in a league of your own. The way I see it, you have not learnt your lesson, but can't afford the fines, lawyers, courts, etc., so have decided to "slow down". Part of the lesson is this: There are other innocent drivers on the road, think what would happen if something goes wrong and respect their rights to get home safely.Yes my 220kh/h and other "off the clock blips" were done at a track b4 braking into a corner, does this make it any less thrilling? Fools may think so, but I love the fact that when all goes well I have vented my adrenaline and have my lic. to drive the next day. Ask any of my friends, I enjoy hard take offs, and yes just to the speed limit, I enjoy taking a corner or a round-about at the speed limit, knowing most other wantobes can only try, knowing my suspension and handling has been modified to do it safely. Call it lucky or whatever, but if my luck, with lack of infringements, has lasted 10yrs then why the f**k have I not won the lottery? If you read my post properly it state: "You sound like a teen with the mental capacity of a chimp. After my response to your initial post, your replies have somewhat changed. You now have repeatedly called anyone who speeds an idiot, which is just what the rest of us were doing. So please explain these lines: Just remember; time and place. And if you get caught for excessively breaking the law don't expect any sympathy. I am by no means a saint, but often make an educated judgement on the risks at hand. THAT IS PROBABLY THE REASON FOR MY CLEAN SLATE. Reading you initial post, i don't think any reasonable person knows where you are coming from, but your last posts have a totally different meaning and is more in line with what others have stated, including myself. Unfortunately life is not black or white and the "fence" has A LOT more area than either side (grey area). That's when we choose our limits and act upon our own experiences.

After 4yrs, with a trimmed fan, my pump decided to start leaking, i honestly think it had more to do with the fact that the car is now almost 12yrs old. According to my ecu, my engine temp stays at 84deg on a "usual" day and about 89deg on a hot day. Look at it this way; your car is probably 12yrs old, if it goes (some time in the future) buy another genuine pump ($105 from Nissan dealer), then while the fan is off, decide whether you want to install thermo fans. It is recommended to replace the pump after 100,000km, but not really crutial. When mine went, water only dribbled out, once the engine was turned off and enough pressure built up. Only noticed it the next day when i saw a small puddle (sauce pan size) under the car. My overflow and radiator were still full, so it didn't leak while running. Other experiences may be differant, but i dought it will "blow" causing major issues.

Great car! But why Auto, surely a cog swapper is avaliable........... Out of interest, how heavy is the car (should state it on your rego sticker)?

You're a f**ken TOOL!!! You sound like a teen with the mental capacity of a chimp.Yes i mod my car, yes i have a CAMS licence, yes i attend track days and other "off street events", yes i may occationally give it a blimp, but there is a time and a place. If i do get caught, i will not cry on this forum and bag a cop for rightfully doing his/her job. **Touch wood** I have had my licence for 10+yrs and have not had any infringements. Yet i have seen my odometre go way past 180km/h and have had countless memorable moments. Hell, i can't remember a dull day in my 'line.

I used various paint sample books, Troy (ylwgtr2) was a GREAT help. Also kept a look out, on the road, at all red/burgundy cars that i passed. And asked friends for advise, thanks Pete .

Sorry for the belated reply, North Coburg.

Didn't realize that the thread had been re-opened, as i didn't get my usual e-mail notifications. Well thanks for all the +ve feedback, it is really appreciated. All up, i am extremely happy with the cosmetic results and also my mechanical upgrades too . I fully understand and appreciate that we all have different tastes. What looks awesome to me may not suit someone else and vis-versa, but at the end of the day only the owner needs to be satisfied with his/her work . I have decided to continue work on my "SKYLINE" backlight project. Should be ready and installed by this weekend. Here are a few progress pics, with a progress report . After the spare "SKYLINE" facia was colour matched, i first used my Dremal tool to cut out the rear of the facia. In hin-sight it may have been better to complete the unit first, before painting, but time was an issue. Then i used a sharp blade, off a Stanly knife, to gently cut off the paint from each letter. (Not as hard/long as i thought it would be ). Using a Jaycar "bread board" and my electronic experience, i positioned two hi-intensity LEDs in between each letter. This was done to try and minimize the focus of the LEDs. YES, it is damn bright ; i may disconnect one wire and only use one LED between each letter. It is now ready to be secured into position, then i will coat it with sicaflex to ensure it is as water resistant as the original. Only one question left... Do i hook it up to my parkers, so when i turn the h/lights on it will remain on, or do i hook it to my brake lights, so it turns off and on with my brake?

What you getting next or is it for a house/wedding/etc.?

Are you serious? I am sure SK would agree, for a street car with the "occational" track meet, coil-overs first, then a Whiteline "Handling Pack" with extra pinapples and camber adjustment bushes, then slotted rotors, decent brake pads (Fedaro?), ADR approved braided brake lines (doen't forget your rubber lines are now 12yrs old ) and probably one of the most important items; some decent brake fluid (motul, etc.). That's pretty much what i have and have used this on the track with great results .

What auction grade and do you have a copy of the auction inspection sheet?

Driving 90 in a 110 is VERY stupid and does cause accidents, but that is a 20km/h differance. It is logically more stupid to drive 114 in a 80 zone, with a 34km/h differance. I see no revenue raising here.....................