Al

Rianto, what area do you live in? If near west/north, i highly recommend EAS Performance, in Airport West.

The only thing that "sucks" is your driving and attitude on the road.

No idea, and without pics it makes it harder

My lower lip is alot "deeper" than the top lip. You can clearly see it in my pics on the first page.

You are correct in saying that the AFM can be fitted after the turbo, as i have seen it done on many VL's. You may have misinterpruted my point ealier when discussing MAF and MAP, i was NOT suggesting the MAF readings are inaccurate because they are fitted b4 the turbo. Just stating that once desired pressure is reached, the flow and amount of air, AT A PARTICULAR RPM, would be constant. Forgot to mention earlier: You made a point that air temp is measured by the MAF sensor. MAP ecu's also measure intake air temps, as they have a sensor fitted just b4 the throttle body. Why would you bother to move a vaccum/boost line before the turbo? Unlike an alarm, the PIN as un-bypassable . If you forget the PIN only AEM can reset it by "flashing" the software, in the wolf ecu. So it is ALOT more secure/effective then a simple kill switch or an immolilzer B). If someone is really keen, they must replace the ecu, refit the AFM and tune the new ecu to my mods, or simply tow it on the back of a truck. :lol:

when you trimmed the bottom, did you trim around the little support in the middle or the bar, then welded a small piece to fill cut out (thus maintaining maximum depth)? Or did you trim just behind this mould, to not require any welding on the lower lip? When bar is fitted what is the distance between the lower lip and the fmic? Pics would definately help........... PS: have a close look at my pics on the first page. If you trimmed the bar for maximum depth, it should look like mine. The Hybrid installs i did for my mates look identical to mine

You can use a 90deg but it is not as good. Using a short pipe, then a 45, then a short pipe and another 45, would make a smoother air flow.

Are you sure? I don't think so You have a gas cylinder, constant temp., how do you increase the pressure?

Notice how i DID NOT SAY increase volume , as volume is a defined constant space, but you need to increase the amount of gas to increase pressure, as we are assuming air temp is also constant. Thanks Silver_r33 Paul MAF measures air b4 the turbo and MAP measures Pressure after the turbo. PIN=Personal Identification Number When ENABLED (you can disable at will), ecu will not fire injectors without the number being entered first. For factory fitted cars, of course MAF is better because if it wasn't all manufactures would be using MAP sensor ecu's. But these cars have multiple millions of research dollars pumped into the tunning. When we buy an aftermarket ecu, this all goes out the window, and the ecu tune is only as good as the tunner. All i am saying is that a MAP aftermarket ecu can be tunned as good as a MAF aftermarket ecu, just depends on the knowledge and experience of the tunner. I just get pissed off when ppl just reguritate the BS that has been feed to them by mechanics who only know how to tune one type of ecu. I choose MAP mainly because my mechanic knows how to tune the Wolf and i had/have no intension of changing mechanics/tunners as i prefer all mods to be inhouse, therefor only one person is responsible. My car (when tune is finalised) starts up great, idles great, has great response and power, equal to any other car with the same mods. Paul if you really are serious about getting info on MAP ecu's or in particular on Wolf3D, why not just ring Steve at AEM, the manufacturer of the wolf ecu.

Type M has fog lamps near indicator, the fog lamps make the assy deeper and will hit the fmic. The std indicators are not as deep and should not touch the fmic. I changed mine from a Type M indicator to a std type (never really liked the fog lamp anyway) 3.5" too big . What is the diametre of the pipe, 2.5"? Don't have a pic and my car is at the mechanic's. Using the far passenger side vent, in the front bar, i made a duct (using 4" drain pipe) to direct air directly to the unused "std ic" hole. The hole was enlarged to 4" to allow the pipe to enter the air box. I used a small 90deg to support the pipe in the box and a simi bendable metal strap to support the pipe at the front bar vent. I also lined the hole with a made up rubber grommet to hold the pipe firmly. I am pretty sure i used two 45deg bends and a few short straight pipes to make the duct.

You have just wrote that your graph for the MAP is what you would "expect" to happen. Sorry to say i really don't beleive you have the experience to even do this, as a IT technecian is hardly the right qualification. I can not prove how the map works, as i am not qualified. You may have done a bit of work with MAF and PFC, but you haven't touched the MAP, but still try to explain/argue something you don't know anything about. Your theory about the tyre is still incorrect, if you have more pressure in the same space you MUST have more air present, otherwise what is causing the increase in pressure? I prefered the wolf as it has PIN security and is able to controll boost using the factory solenoid, no need to purchase other add-ons, etc. Just a thought: (from someone that really doesn't know) The MAF sensor senses air going into the turbo, but the air after the turbo is more important, at the set pressure. As the turbo has built up boost the rest of the air is expelled through the wastegate, leaving a CONSTANT volume of air in the intake system. Thus the only variable, that both MAF and MAP sensing ecu's need to use is rpm and load; how fast the engine uses that air. You have a fixed chamber, with fixed pressure, then surely the air volume must also be fixed at a particular load and rpm.

Paul, i really don't think your info is accurate. Where are you sourcing it from? Drawing two paintshop pics does not convence me of the differance. Your above comments make no sense If you change the size of a tyre of course it is going to have differant volume. Luckly for us, the volume of our engines remains constant, so once "target" pressure has been reached, the amount of air will be constant, whether you are using map or maf. I've always said PowerFCs are a great ecu, but wolf3D is a great alternative and offers a couple of inbuilt features that the PFC doesn't have.

Fair comment. But that was more a tune thing not a ecu problem. How many times did Adz take his car, with PowerFC, to ICE Perfomance (to fix the tune) b4 he decided to go to Racepace? Each car is differant and needs slight adjustments, everything i suggested to be fixed was done and worked properly.

My 4" was not a measurement but an approximation, as i did not have a holesaw handy. But i placed a rubber "grommet" around the hole to make it look neat, so the hole was made bigger, and also to account for engine movement, etc. 3.5" should be a good size. To cut the fan blades i used my "Dremmel" tool, it's great for those tight places .

Take it to a differant mechanic and permanently f**k off your current one You obviously have a serious problem and your mechanic couldn't give a shit

LatinR33 is yours auto? Auto should idle at approx 650rpm and manuals at about 850rpm. There should be a paper plague mounted on your hood liner, stating the idle speed.

Nah....... Looks are more important

1/ not sure what instructions you are refering to. 2/ Need to see a pic, or just move unit as pipe will need to pass there. 3/ I was too breif with my explanation. If you are running a pod it is a great opertunaty to get some real cold air to it. Using 4" water drain pipes i managed to get air from the side vent in the bar to the unused hole. To maximise the flow i increased the size of the unused hole to 4". 4/ Yes very slightly, but don't worry about it as i have mounted my aftermarket eng. oil cooler in the same location 5/ Define "low". Some trimming is a must, but it shouldn't be alot. At a guess probably about 20mm on the horizontal edge and about 30mm on the vertical side, closest to the pipe. 6/ The pipes all have a "lip" the rubber needs to clear the lip and have enough over for the width of the clamp. The clamp must not overhang the edge of the rubber. To compare how low you pipework is, refer to pic below: NOTE: My fmic is not a Hybrid kit, but it should look very similar to this as both my mates' kits are. PS: Using a little soapy water round the edge of the rubber pipes makes things a little easier. Soapy water will also evaporate and dry up, unlike oil, grease, etc.

In all honesty i really don't know a lot From my limited knowledge it has: - Fuel map (x=rpm, y=load) [resolution: x=125rpm, y=16 load points per rpm increment] - Ignition map (x=rpm, y=load) [resolution: x=125rpm, y=16 load points per rpm increment] - Air temp compensation - Battery voltage compensation - Engine temp compensation Alot of other things i have seen my mechanic play with, but haven't bothered to take note as i have no intention to play with the ecu myself

I only would trust 2 w/shops to tune the Wolf, in Melbourne. -EAS Performance, Airport West -Rank Rotary, Mentone Just like i would only trust 1 w/shop to tune a PowerFC - RacePace, east side not sure exactly where

Sorry Paul, what a load of crap You try to sound as if you know and have worked with a MAP ecu, but i beleive you haven't got any experience with one. MAP ecu's work on Mass Air Pressure (MAP), so instead of measuring a resistance from a AFM, the ecu measures air by pressure. It is tunable using load, pressure, revs, timming, etc. The running operations at ALL temps (ie:cold start, etc) is comparable to any MAF system, just ask ANT95GTR or myself, or anyone else that has a decent mechanic, who knows the ecu. A tunner that claims to tune everything is hopeless as he would only know the basics of each differant ecu, and wouldn't use all available features to get it right. I have heard too many stories of 10yr old AFM f**king up and causing issues. If AFM don't cause a restriction why do alot of ppl remove the mesh?. Also a lot of big turbo's have a 4" mouth, reducing the intake pipe to 3" to match the AFM is a restiction within itself. Please find better sources of info, before you mislead others in the wrong direction.

I have a Bosch 044 external installed in the boot and it is pretty damn loud, but i have gotten accustomed to the sound :lol: Ever hear speaker noise from a stereo system with earthing issues or rca's running along side the power cables? Well the sound is similar to that but deeper and a little louder. Definately heard inside cabin, and over a loud exhaust. The Bosch 040 are alot quieter, and can only be generally heard while primming the engine b4 start-up.

You CAN just remove the AFM, if you buy a Wolf 3D and eliminate the restriction completely

Agreed.... 1

When i planed my turbo upgrade, i wanted it to look as std as possible so i bought a 2nd hand hi-flowed R33 turbo and fitted the VG30 exhaust housing (a R34 hiflow is equivalent and doesn't need the VG30 housing) My mod list includes variations of all your above mentioned items but i also had my head "race ported". Even though this has given me more flow, i now realise that it also has made the combo a little laggier, but i have no regrets . End result: 270rwkw@15psi Standard bottom end; so we stopped tunning at 15psi, then lowered it to 13-14psi to make a reliable 250rwkw and fine tuned the setup at this level.