Al

All you need to do now is buy the apexi "power control valve" (used to quiten aftermarket exhaust systems), as it is electric, and murge this unit to it. Hence, automatic noise ajustment . And if the cops question it just say it was a factory option Japs come up with every gizmo for their std cars :lol:

Paint colour: Ford Laser Red But i chose it because it still look burgundy.

Congratulations on the buy. But i would get a second opinion on the power figure

You could have used a better pic to promote your event For those that have not been, this is an awesome day. So much fun at minimum risk.

Only after the accident. I did choose that colour when i bought it. Nothing wrong with "standing out in a crowd", and my Red Pearl is soooooo much better

satanic: That is a great pic of your car!! (in your sig )

It is probably unlikely; but a while ago i had the same problem in my previous car. Tried everything, including those power noise filters and that rca noise filters (which where BS as the rca filters removed the noise but also the bass), as well as everything mentioned above. A little while later i bought a competion amp, at a great price, to power my sub. I had a decent genuine Rockford Fosgate pushing a Rockford 12", but this "new" amp was much more powerful. The moment i removed the Rockford amp, the noise disappeared. So there could also be something minor wrong with an amp, such as a "dry joint". Try swapping amps or by-passing them to test out you system.

Glad to hear you found a solution. I personally couldn't live without the aircon

Exactly, even with the stickers i do not tell people how to drive. But don't come on this site and glorify your actions. What do ppl want to here; "that was fully hectik bro, last night i too done 2 doughies and fishied up the street". We all have cars capable of doing such actions, but who cares, we've seen/heard/done it ALL b4. What most young guys don't consider is: what if the unexpected happens? Such activites are best done in a controlled location. You only have to look at my sigs and you'll see i'm no granny when it comes to having fun in the 'line, but on the road a bit of respect for other ppl's safety must be shown.

If you can afford the series II, go for it. But you can't wait a couple of months, as they will probably be sold by then. There is nothing wrong with the Burgundy, it's a great colour!! I second Adz's offer, to help you look at a couple of Skylines

Not sure what you are refering to here, a pic may help things Just to the right of the clock, behind the steering wheel, there is a column of slotted vents, measuring about 10mm(h) X 5mm(w). When you take the insert off you sould see a 10mm vaccum hose connected to it. Once the hose is removed you will be able to see the little sensor.

Had my Skyline for 6yrs and have only been pulled over once, as i went through a booze bus. Had the fmic, exhaust, and 19's for at least 4yrs, so the car never really looked stock. It's all about how you drive, if you are an idiot on the road then they will always pull you over. Once you have a bad rep. with the police the hassles never stop. So keep driving like a fool and enjoy the harrasment, just don't cry like a biatch when they defect you 3 times in one month. :lol:

Do you know where the temp sensor is? If you have removed the dash insert, in the past, it is quite possible the the vacumm hose has come off, or is not connected properly.

Geeez, lately 32 owners are feeling VERY insecure and feel the need to talk down the better engineered models

I would think it will still open fully till the sensor picks up the change in temp. I may be wrong, but the "auto" feature controls the fan and a/c speed. So if you add a degree but keep the fan at 1/4 speed, then the heater position has to change to raise the temp.

Smok74, i fully respect that point of view, as it has taken me 6yrs to build up my car from std to what it is today. I am not sure what triggered your inital response, as i see the cost of buying a NEO and completing the conversion into a 33, would probably be as expensive as rebuilding the 33 RB25. Also the benifits would be greater as it would have much stronger internals. If it was my rb30/rb26 comments that triggered your post, well a standard rb26 makes a easy 250rwkw, let alone the 30/26 combo. EDIT: Just worked it out (combo is detuned to save the box and diff ). Well you did not state that in your initial post, was just stating that the combo is capable of much better results . -Alan

You stated that it has a new water pump, is it a Genuine RB25 std pump? As the VL and N1 pumps fit, but have less fins, thus don't flow as much water at idle, causing the engine to overheat. Could also be a airflow problem. May be worth lifting the rear of the bonnet (near the windscreen), using washers, to allow better ventilation in the engine bay. Also, if the front bar is more restrictive than a Skyline you will need a larger radiator than a std Skyline. I may be wrong, but i think the R32 radiator is smaller than the R33, so you may already caused a heating problem anyway. Just another suggestions. Alan

Seems you may be slightly confused........... Rebuild engine: New internals, stronger, known quality. 2nd hand engine: standard internals, unknown history, unknown time in storage, more hassle (NEO conversion), unknown condition. In my mind there is only one logical solution, but i'll leave that for you to decide.

Has the radiator been upgraded from the std 180sx to at least the std 33 sized radiator? There is a BIG differance between "should" and "does". I personally would consider fitting the largest aftermarket radiator, in the allocated space available, with the best high volume thermo fans. You now have 33 running gear, so you need at least 33 cooling.

RB30, with RB26 head, making ONLY 210rwkw is a damn pretty poor effort. Not sure it that is because of a tired eng., poor tune or ecu related, but i wouldn't accept that power out of such a proven combo. Something sounds drastically wrong

I am a strong believer of the term "an ECU is only as good as it's tunner". So if your uncle is a wiz on the EMS ecu's, stick with it, i'm sure it will be fine.

Why hi-flow a VL turbo, when a hi-flowed NEO turbo will deliver more power? VL turbo's have a smaller comp cover, restricting air flow. If i had to decide between a std NEO eng or rebuilding a 33 eng, i would rebuild the 33 with full set of forgies, especially at "family rates" .

I would assume that to increase the cabin temp by 1deg, would take a while, so it should go to full hot untill the temp increase is detected by the temp sensor in the dash. My theory may be wrong, just sounds logically correct.

As if................:lol: you just want to know to make sure that you are NOT in the area