Al

Rear and front windscreens are both bonded (with sealant) and sealed with rubber seals. New rubber seals can be purchased through Nissan, but are not cheap and may need to be ordered from Japan. These can be fitted by most major car windscreen replacement companies. Alternatively you car take your car to a windscreen replacement depot and ask if they have a generic rubber seal that would do the same job. This may not look 100% factory, but shouldn't be a real problem, and it will be cheaper and quicker

WTF is a "djetro power fc" and how does it differ to the std $950 Pfc (/w hc)?

When you said you got a new afm, was it brand new (from Nissan) or a second hand item.

More reason to get those pics up ASAP

Things to do: (in my order of preferance) 1/ Get turbo and eng checked by a good mechanic 2/ If blow-by is not too bad, ask mechanic to fit a quality "oil catch can". 3/ Empty the "catch can" weekly and keep note of how much oil is being used. Note: Always dispose of oil and top up eng. with fresh oil of the same brand and class. 4/ If turbo seizes, then replace it. Or save up for an upgrade 5/ Once the engine feels tired then rebuild it, no point in doing it now if you can't afford it or if the turbo is the problem. NOTE: Could also be the valve stem seals in the head, leaking oil onto the pistons. So don't panic and take it to a decent mechanic.

Any chance for a 1.5way or even a 1way?

Condensation is when, on a cold day/night, water droplets build up in the exhaust. Then evaporates when the exhaust heats up (white stem comes out of exhaust). This only happens on the first startup of the day. It is more likely that your turbo has a leaking seal. Any reasonable performance mechanic can do a comp test on the eng. and check the turbo for you. I do not beleive white smoke can ever be good. But no need to panic, get it checked out, as these things could last for months/years just like it is.

brownish/black smoke = running rich white or blue smoke = burning oil Sounds like you have a bit of blow-by, symptoms of a leaking seal in the turbo or a tired engine. Running 14psi+ on a std turbo, i would suggest you start saving for a replacement

SAU do not promote illegal activites, even if it was a "100m accident" . If you can't controll your car sell it, everyone will be alot safer. It would have been a faster get-away if you didn't decide to fishy up a public street like an idiot and used a bit of throttle control. MODS please close and move this thread .......... PS: If you are looking at my sig, it was done in a controlled and legal environment, at Victoria's largest skid pan, DECA Shepparton. B)

Signs of your engine getting tired

Achievable; but would also need injectors, cams, fuel pump, etc......... Or this guy can just be talking shit :lol: you just don't know.

Each to their own...........

How much is your life or car worth? If you think the tyres are badly damaged to the extent that you are taking about "if this, if that, legal, lawers, etc" then i suggest you buy new ones. If the tyres have a bulge, then the internal belt has split and can not be repaired. It is illegal for any tyre shop to repair a hole on the sidewall of a tyre.

Could be a number of things Fluid in you slave cylinder Air in the fluid lines Possible fluid leak Ajustment under dash Clutch assy

You don't "need" one, but for the added security (PIN) and the ablity to monitor all sensors/readings, why wouldn't you invest in one.

Bunta: No offence, but a few of things i do not like about that fmic; 1/ The return pipe appears to sit low. 2/ Due to its design the core is pretty small. 3/ No cold air feed for the pod, so you are only sucking hot air in the eng bay. Those fmic kits are only good if you intend to keep your std airbox and have limited power.

Didn't think it was possible

replied in other post

With +ve terminals, it should not really be a problem, but even though it will work i highly recommend using seperate GND cables, with the shortest path to earth. A better way to do it is to use distribution blocks, one for +ve and the other for GND. This will also make it easier to wire up the amps, as fitting two 5mm cables into one termanal can be a prick.

R34 box will fit, but you'll need a new clutch as they are a "pull type". I believe ratios are the same, not certain though.

If this is still available, i'm up for one. What state are you from? How much to courier to Thornbury, VIC, 3071?

AGREED

Hybrid copies do a decent job, and can be picked up pretty cheaply. HERE is a link to one Also try ebay as i've seen complete kits selling pretty cheap there too. E-bay item

The r32 and r33 plug-ins are different, please specify which model you are selling. If the wolf comes with a hand controller, it has PIN security, so the car can not be started b4 the 4 digit pin number is entered. This feature can be disabled at will, so no-one else has to know the pin. Has peak hold on all displayed values. Is a MAP sensing ecu, so you don’t have to upgrade to expensive airflow meters when you want to make some serious power. I believe it has more tunning points than the pfc, but your mechanic would need to be proficient with its features. Basically an ecu is only as good as the tuner tunning your car. So find a mechanic you trust and purchase their preferred ecu, otherwise you'll keep having dramas. I've had the Wolf3D V4 for about 3-4yrs, was one of the first as my mechanic knows Steve from AEM (the manufacturers of the Wolf). There occasionally have been a couple of bugs, but these have all been sorted with time and I am very pleased with the results. PS: When was this ecu purchased, and has it been upgraded since its purchase? There have been a few updates since it was first released 4yrs ago.

What turbo?