Al

ENTRANTS ARE NOW GOING TO BE ACCEPTED ON THE DAY! But to make things easier please PM me your e-mail address and i will send the entry form, so that it is complete on arrival. ** DUE TO MAJOR EVENTS OCCURING AROUND THE PREVIOUS DATE, THE EVENT HAS BEEN MOVED TO THE 6th JUNE 2004! ** Northern Street Cruizers (and myself) apologize for any inconvenience that this change has caused. If someone has paid to participate on the previous date and are unable to attend the event on the new date a full refund will be given to that person. Due to the unfortunate SAU Crash late last year, this event was lost. Now that the date is closing in I have decided to repost the event, as in the previous thread people mentioned it was tooooo early to commit to. NORTHERN STREET CRUIZERS PRESENTS DETAILS: DATE: Sunday 6th June2004 (new date) VENUE: DECA driving grounds Shepparton TIME: - Starts 8:00am - Finishes Approx. 5:00pm COST: - $50 per car - Spectators welcome Events: (Minimum 2 runs per course [trying for 3]) - Circuit - Wet & Dry skid pan - Go-to-whoa - Burnouts - Figure 8 - Club Battles (time based) - Drifting - At days end, each car will be given 2-3 mins to cut loose (by themselves) on the huge skid pan (time permitting). General: - The participants will be split into 5 smaller groups and will be using different circuits simultaneously. - Prizes for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place. Based on the total times for each circuit. - Club "perpetual" trophy: All clubs select 3 drivers to represent them and their times will be added together to determine the winning club. - BBQ and drinks are available at a very reasonable price. - MUST HAVE A CURRENT DRIVING LICENSE AND CAR MUST HAVE REGO. TO CONFIRM POSITION A NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT OF THE FULL AMOUNT ($50) MUST BE PAID AND THE "ENTRY FORM" COMPLETED AND SIGNED. It is only when you meet both requirements that a spot will be reserved. FOR ENTRY FORMS CONTACT CORRY (NSC club president): 0418103392 or PM me and I will e-mail one to you. PS: Just consider this: Many people (including myself, twice) has paid $120 to have a GREAT day with Kevin, from Driver Dynamics, at the Police Academy skid pan. Unfortunately the only event is sliding round in the same circle. Compare this to the events offered above, for the cost of $50 . This is going to be a GREATER DAY! :headspin: PSS: May organise a cruise to go up on Saturday, 5th June, afternoon and spend the night. We will hit the clubs/bars have a good rest and wake up ready for a day of FUN !

ECR 33: Don't mean to sound like a prick but please edit that last post, we don't like to verbally trash the police, especially when they have been EXTREMELY REASONABLE with our club. Everyone else: The police will be reading this thread and they will be present and probably undercover, as they have been in the last GOR. But they have been VERY reasonable with us, and left most of our members alone as we generally respect the laws and other road users, hence our reputation. Only two cars got pulled over last cruise, one was speeding and overtaking several cars at once on the Princess Fwy, the other was listed as being unregistered (due to an unfortunate mistake by the EPA). THAT'S 2 OUT OF 35+ CARS THAT ATTENDED . The cruise was great, the company even better.

Just bought the "Handling Package" kit for $658 Will be installed at my mechanics workshop, then i will take it to get the wheel alignment.

My other club had a theme for a couple of car shows. We put up a few huge board that were designed to look like the pit at a race track, had a Banner of our sponsors over each door. The wall was supported by 20galon oil tanks, also had air hoses extending out over the cars. On the floor we laid down a heap of black garden plastic, then we parked the cars and used thick masking tape to mark out the pits/lines. I may be able to borrow this display and barriers/fences. Be warned: Alot of planning has to be done in organising the cars. Then on the night we will need a few people to erect the display.

I have about 45min of skid-pan footage Also have about 1000 pics that can be put on a cd and played via a DVD player or computer (better image res. on computer) Keen to play a part in this show, including entering my car.

Hey doent laugh, but i got my arse served to me on a platter by a starlet, at the last Calder cruise (not drags). This thing was wicked! Looked totally stock, including the hub-capped rims. But had a import startlet turbo motor, that was completely rebuilt and had a 450hp turbo on a custom manifold and a wolf3d ecu. CRAZY ASSSS! I saw the car parked and spoke to the owner, b4 going on the track. Just couldn't wait to see this car kick my arse , it didn't disapoint.

2.5L turbo, 4wd, 4ws, Stegea's are not that expensive. I think you may have been getting confused with the very limited Autech (sp?) GTR equiped models. Just consider that the 4wd will rob some power from the motor. But with a few mods you can make these thing boogy . Personally i would love to get one of these and transfer all my mods over from my coupe. Simply because it is more unique and has the 4wd. Nothing like a RB25/30 combo with ported heads and a 500-600hp roller-bearing turbo, to compensate for the lack of the RB26DETT engine, that comes with the AUTECH version .

When mentioned "fully enclosed" and "semi enclosed" be was reffering to: Fully enclosed: Front and rear chambers (unable to see sub at all, just looks like one massive box with holes, useally twice the volume of a standard sealed unit) Semi enclosed: Only has one sealed chamber, able to see either the front of the sub (most common), or the rear (sub fires into the sealed box) If you have a great designer, and someone that is capable of building a strong box to exact specification, i would choose the band-pass design (fully enclosed). When designed and built properly, these enclosures produce the deepest, loudest and cleanest bass. Design and build quality is vital.

Unfortunately i live in Vic., would have done it for you free. Get the person to soldier a chip socket first then insert the chip into the socket. This has two beifits: 1/ the chip can be easily removable, should you want to re-map it, at a later stage. 2/ Heat is kept away from the chip, less chance of damage

If dates and times are right, i will attend.

If spacers had to be used, i would sadly have to pass. Would prefer to buy a rim with the right off-set, as i only intend to use them for track days. Thanks

Cool, so we leave it in your capable hands.

Well the major meeting point for the last cruise was pretty central to most people as it was at the start of the Princes Fwy to Geelong. Pt Cook Rd exit , in the Shell/Subway carpark. Big car park that easily accomodated the number of cars that attented the last meet. Minor/sub meeting spots can be arranged in the eastern, western, northern, southern and Geelong suburbs by those people that live in the area. All we really need now is a time to meet at Shell/Subway carpark and the rest can be calculated from there

Sounds like one of those unexplainable freaky things. Maybe the load on the gearbox when placed into four resulted in a minor shifting of an intenal part. Don't worry too much about it as the skyline boxes can easily handle harsher punishment. Just be glad that the outcome was good. Now you know what to do, if the previous problem comes back .

Would installing the TOMIE HICAS lock kit damage the system? Just thinking, if the shims prevent the HICAS from moving, would it cause great strain on the mechanics or does the electronic box disable the system completely (kills power to the HICAS)?

Thanks Have recently read a thread relating to the R32 hicas system and it's removal. You also stated the removal of the hydrolics in that thread. Does the R33 HICAS work hydrolicly? I thought that only the 32's had a hydrolic system, as the 33's and 34's were upgraded to a fully electronic system. I am cosidering using the TOMIE system as it can be easily reverted back to normal if need be. Also wouldn't the removal of about 30kg of parts effect the "balance" and front to rear weight distribution of the car, thus effecting it's handling. I am just trying to get educated on such matters , i am in no way trying to 2nd guess your tactics, as your knowledge and experience is FAR greater than mine. Thanks Alan

I am preping the car to do a little track work (propably 4-5 times a year), nothing serious, just wanting to have a little fun in a controlled environment. I am considering removing the Hicas as many people have recommended doing, but b4 doing so i would like to get a couple of issues cleared up. 1/ If the car handles better without the HICAS why was it installed throughout the 32, 33 and 34 models? 2/ If the fuse is taken out for track days, is the HICAS firmly locked in the neutral positon? 3/ On a R33 what methods can be used in disabling/removing the HICAS? 4/ Can anyone please supply links to suppliers that have kits for R33's? Thanks Alan

That's what i'm trying to find out. I have heard that Pedders are a little cheaper than the Whiteline kit, but i am always willing to pay that little extra for a proven and better product.

Can we start a new thread clearly stating the date, time, place, etc. of the meet-up. Or at least delete all the chat about MCCR and any other useless posts.

1/ Do these rims fit on the front, without having to 'shave' ANY part of the front calipars? 2/ Would you consider these to be a lightweight rim, or are they at least lighter than the stockies? I have 19's but am starting to do some track work, and these are too heavy and tyres are too expensive to burn.

Welcome, hope to catch up soon.

I too have heard alot of good things about Whiteline and was about to buy the kit, then a friend told me that pedders also make a kit, just wanted to compare and see if anyone has/is using the pedders kit. strutto: What have you heard and why are they bad? TO ALL: Thanks for your input ! Alan

Am about to buy a Handling Kit for my R33 GTS-t. Till recently i only thought that Whiteline made them, but have now found out that Pedders make their own kits with urethane bushes, swaybars, caster and camber adjustments. 1/ Are there any other suppliers for such kits? 2/ How does the Pedders kit compare to Whiteline? 3/ Is anyone using the Pedders Kit? Please feel free to post any RELAVENT information Thanks Alan

My bar is not flimsy at all. Adam i tried to e-mail ya but now the flippen Outlook is playing up I will send another response soon. Alan

Thanks for the site. Am getting a different performance clutch put into my car, and a ballanced, lightened flywheel. After that i am booking it in to get the Whiteline or Pedders handling kit installed, then come the slotted rotors with Endless pads and ADR approved braided brake lines. This will all be done within the next few months. Then i will be joining ya !