Al

Damn, still spewin i had to give it a miss . Next time i will be there!

Are they blown/leaking or just that the ride is too hard?Stiff suspension is great to drift/skid with . Just ask DJ lethal (nathan) how hard my suspension is . As it is not a daily driver i don't mind it, and if i had to start driving it daily i would not change it.

I will be going to my second skid pan day in Nov.

Almost 2 years. Just keeps getting better

First time i've seen it

I'm planning on going.

Have had my licience for 8yrs (last 2 with the skyline), last 5yrs working as a field tech. doing about 1100km p/w of driving, have NOT lost 1 point and no accidents. Not even a parking ticket, lol . Have coped 2 canaries though (with previous two cars)

Even though the cooler would be ideal, i "personally" feel that it is not essential at that stage of the mods. MY 2c PS: Once you fit a cooler you will need a SAFC or an aftermarket ECU to re-tune the a/f ratios. When i first got my fmic, on high boost, on a cool night, the car would back fire, loose power, etc., with the facory ecu. (Just my personal experience (not professional advice)

PS: Squeal and dip in revs only occur once you let go of the key, on start-up.

This just started happening to me. It is an instant squeal (sp) then disappears, also you may notice a stlight dip in revs for a micro second when you let go of the key. I traced it straight to the starter motor. When i talked to my mechanic he agreed and said that it is very common in skylines. All they need to do is take it off, pull it apart, clean all carbon deposits etc., lubricate it and put it back on. Nothing serious, but if you leave it, it will eventually stuff up. Preventative maintainance: It will cost you a little now, but if left untreated it will cost you alot more

Glad to hear he is making it his reposability, and that you have it in writing! PS: Don't worry about time, i will hold on to the item for you till you get sorted out.

I get about 340. That's from full to 1/4, i never let the fuel go under the 1/4 mark. That's with my existing mod's.

lol, even worse Go out and see your missus more

Speak to the guys at ATP (NOT ATS) You need to look them up. Thats who EAS recommend to go to in melb.

Oh FARK man, i'm feelin really bad for you! All that hard work and waiting, especially when everything came out so good. The mechanic is definately liable, as the car was kept in his care overnight, and should have insurance to cover such problems. Definately sounds suspect, it would be pretty dificult getting a bonnet over the fence, i would consider another mechanic once car is fixed again. Why would you allow him to store your car outside? At my mechanic it is stored inside, factory is alarmed and he has anti-ram post infront of the entrance. When he is tight for room he puts a car on the hoist and parks another one under it. Look for signs of robbery. ie: Hole in fence, wires bent on top of fence, etc. See if you can determine wether it was an inside job. Take legal action if he refuses responsability, first contact Victorian consumer affairs on 1300 558 181. GOOD LUCK, and really hope it works out in your favour. Alan

GOOD WORK! But you must get pretty bored at work

This sounds pretty accurate :uh-huh:.But if you are using alot more fuel, than i am, it goes to reason that your car is running richier than mine (we are both making approx. same power) so you shouldn't be running lean. Might be worth getting a retune with air/fuel ratio readings as well as power, just to see what's going on.

Whistla: I will change the screen to display the bar graphs and explain it is just a rev and oxygen display To make the factory solenoid work over 10psi, my mechanic had to play around with air flow restrictors in the vaccum line to the wastegate. He kept swapping restrictors till he was in the ball park, then simply tunned the wolf till the boost was steady at 13psi. 95GTST: The two screws have not been refitted, so the surround simply clips off. The gap that you see in the photo is as bad as it gets (hardly noticable in the car). Behind the black face is a piece of 3mm perspex, that has been cut and shaved to size. Then a rectangle hole was cut in the middle, to allow the display to squeeze through (tight fit) Once display was aligned in perspex a drop off glue was applied on the corners. Then the perpex was fixed to the trim by some more glue. Measurements were then taken and a neat cover was made, to complete the job.

Glad to be of service

Pic 3

Pic 2

It was mine till i decided to open the box and split the two boards inside it. (one board was for the keypad the other for the display, with wires linking each board and the loom. About 18 wires between the boards)

Cold start and idle are purrrrrring - the problem was a combination of a few things : 1/ Oil was a little too thick on cold start 2/ Was only really bad in winter (cold mornings) 3/ Slight tune adjustments Now that i have changed the oil, mornings aren't as cold and the tune has been adjusted, the car starts on the first turn (be it a second or two longer than factory). The solenoid was for the boost, and i have hooked up the factory solenoind again, the wolf just pulses this off and on to maintain the desired psi. I tried putting a biggish cap. on the ingnition wire to the wolf, to give the timer that fraction of a second longer, but without success. Display has been mounted where the ashtray was, and the keypad relocated to the glove box. Looks really neat and works a treat . Now i have the p.i.n. security code, fully operational .

i may have to give Calder a miss In the middle of moving house, and have to move some stuff on friday night May be able to make it to Heathcote .

If you intend to fit a sub, don't bother with the 6x9's. Personally, i bought a "top of the line" set of Hertz 6" mid bass woofers for the rears, does the job (After all it is a performance car and you don't want to weigh it down with subs, etc.. )