Al

The hose is a overflow/breather tube for battery. Because the battery is mounted in the boot, by law, you need to buy a battery with this breather tube. This is a precaution as if the battery expands, due to heat, it will expell some acidy fumes, hense the hose dirrecting the fumes out of the cabin. I also have put a high powered battery, Optima gel cell 1000cca ($300) one of the best types of batteries for car audio, but have not experienced and problems. But i do have a wolf 3d ecu, that replaced the factory ecu. Alan

Before you buy your BIG turbo have a read of this: Programable ECU Vs Factory ECU This is very important and can save your engine, but the choice is yours. A programmable ecu also extracts a lot more potential from your stock turbo and the bigger turbo. Do you already have; the fuel pump, rising fuel regulator, injectors, min. 3" exhaust from turbo back with hi-flow cat. and muffler, H/D clutch, etc? If your are missing any of the previous get these first as your 4K will not get you far without them. With 300rwkw you will also require forged pistons, conrods, etc., if you want a reliable engine.:uh-huh: my 2c, GOOD LUCK! Alan

Hopefully my car will be back together by then, if so i will come. Car was stripped to tint windows and now i am adding in an amp and some other minor modifications . Everthing from the front seats back has been pulled out, looks like i am getting ready for the drags .

Sure u trust your life in my hands? (i wouldn't )

My mechanic is in the process of fitting one of these to a R33. From what he told me, the turbo has been designed to be very restrictive. They had to change both the exhaust and comp. covers to free up the air flow. Not worth buying one, then having to modify it.my 2c

:wavey: I'm in for both!! Can't say i have tried it but would definately like too. Plus i have the suspension for it, just ask DJ Lethal, (B1) MR_fanny and R31Nismoid They saw how stiff it was at the tint day, it barely mad it up the driveway as the car had the driving wheel about 2 inches off the ground:uh-huh:

Noooooooo....... How unfortunate that this happened to you, but glad to hear that you are ok. Hope to see ya back on the road soon. If ya need any help call me i will do what i can. Good Luck Alan

I do (kinda) I wouldn't mind "SAU" with a couple of 'afterburners' (brake lights) on either side. Doesn't stand out too boldly, and whoever is a member would recognise. my 2c

well i would of prefered that too . But i gave them the car told them what i wanted, and when i got it back wasn't 100% happy. (95%, just minor things need to be done)

Now questions a dumb, some are just simpler to answer than others.

Just a suggestion. If you are about to fit a m-spec front bar to your car, do what i have done to mine (attachment below), so that is you decide to get a fmic in the future you will have full air flow to it. Take it to a plastic welder (i took mine to a bumper repair shop, in Airport West) tell him to cut the middle bar off (the one that supports the number plate) and use the off cuts to seal the remaining cut outs.

The current software version of my wolf is V4.51. I have heard that V4.53 has been released, but only improves the features for the tunner. My tune did only cost $200, but as previously stated (and demonstrated on the graph) i am not 100% happy with it. Doen't get me wrong, the engine makes the power, and is tunned at a safe level. Maybe mine was a little cheaper as the tunner may have installed another car's tune, with similar mods, and then fine tunned it for my car, thus saving alot of time. As yet i am not using temp. compensation or boost controller. The car is booked to be serviced, retunned and above options to be installed.

EnricoPalazzo: Basically nothing (part of tunning), as the unit plugs into your factory loom. The only additional thing was a vaccum pipe from the plenum to the ecu, inside the cabin. It also had a base program so the car was drivable without the tune. Personally i wouldn't drive long without tunning it properly as all engines have different characteristics.

Same as the wolf 3D, it apparently gives you the option to keep it or ditch it and use a MAP

where are you located?

Let me start be saying that, i am not posting this thread just to promote the Wolf 3D as the best ecu blah blah.....( As i beleive similar power gains can be acheived using any PROVEN programmable ecu) My intention for this topic is to demonstrate to people, especially the youger performance car drivers, the advantages and power gains to be had by installing a programmable ecu. I feel that too many 'newbies' think that a BIG turbo with a factory ecu is the best way to go. Unfortunately this belief is not only wrong, but can lead to a blown motor and turbo. I have seen this done, motor blew and fired peices of metal into a new turbo. True power gains can be accomplished safely b4 you even touch the turbo. I decided to attach a picture of a dyno sheet of my car. This was done a few weeks ago and I wasn’t going to post it as the power rating/figure doesn’t mean squat. I am just showing you a comparison between the wolf 3d ecu and the factory ecu. Back round info: This was done, as I wasn’t happy with my dyno result on the Dr_Drift Dyno day. My mechanic is in the process of purchasing a dyno, so the rep. from dyno dynamics brought the dyno to the w/shop to demonstrate all its operations. (Lucky for me, my car was the test car ) Now the rep did all the setting up and driving, whilst my mechanic was in the passenger seat, I was on the sidelines. So if the dyno dynamic rep. can’t do an accurate run, who can? (Read: This is a true reading of the car’s power). I also put my factory rims back on, as I knew my 19 “s would produce a lower kW reading (physics) After doing a few runs with the wolf, we plugged back in the factory ecu to see the difference. A couple of runs were done on the ecu with the same results. I do not know if the ecu needs time to recalibrate itself after being unplugged, but the results were huge. Also, before buying the wolf the car would backfire and loose power while on hi-boost (this occured due to the inability of the factory ecu to adapt to my modifications), thus prompting me to get the wolf 3d. *All runs were done without the huge fan at the front of the car, as there was no room on the dyno dynamics trailer to fit it. Thus, intake temps. would have been higher than normal. Mods: (these are listed in order) - 3” exhaust, turbo back - pod - 13psi (via bleed valve) - Fmic - Sealed off pod and placed a cold feed to pod using a 4" drain pipe from front bar. (I now recommend only to install a pod once the fmic is installed thus allowing you to do this mod.) - H/D clutch The graph indicates that more gains could be had with some fine tunning. As one could see betwwen 2500rpm and 5000rpm the a/f ratio is very rich, and the power curve has a slight 'ditch'. Also the car acheives its peak power at 6100rpm, which is lower than usual (6800rpm), this could be due to the fact that boost tappers off and is not flat. By 6100rpm boost drops to approx. 11.5psi. I am planning to install a Wolf boost controller and completing the std. BOV mod. to keep boost at 13psi flat. PS: The “MAX 140.0 kW” was for the factory ecu, the wolf 3d made 189.7 kW (NOT in ‘shoot out’ mode) PSS: Sorry for the long post, but i think it could be helpful to some .

:bahaha:

*BUMP* I'm a bit surprised. Thought these would be of interest to some.

Speaker grills are screwed on to the door trim, from the inside. You will need to remove the trim from the door first, then unscrew the 4 screws behind. I don't understand why you want to remove these, unless you are just wanting to replace the speakers. Once the trim is removed, you have full access to the speakers. Al.

king_kw13: No prob. Well skatin and RGS have picked up their amps and receipts, hope it all sounds sweet once hooked up. Good Luck Al

Do they still make these spoilers? do they have a web site or contact number?

Pred. STOP!!!! b4 you blow your amp or your sub. I don't now much about that particular amp, but from what you stated, i have gathered the following. The amp is only stable at 4 ohms mono (bridged). Putting 8 ohms is better/safer for the amp but alot of power will be wasted. ie:4 ohms=150Wrms, 8 ohms=75Wrms. Putting a 2 ohms load is overdriving the amp, which causes clipping of sound. During this 'clipping' the voltage outputted by the amp is effectively DC. DC voltages burn voicecoils! thus blowing sub. There sould be a way to wire up the sub to have a 4ohm impedance, find the instruction manual for the sub. Running one voicecoil is not recommended as it has to push/pull the other one, causing more stress.

I have a mesh in front of my cooler to protect it against the bigger object. I could partly fit my little finger in the holes, so it does not really disturb the air flow. My 2c Alan

Hay Pred., Don't get Rockgate mixed up with Rockford. Rockford fosgate = top quality and sound Rockgate fosgate = cheap imo rip off!

nizmokid: Pm ed you back