Al

not really

It's actually the new engines that need to be rebuilt every 100,000km.If it has been rebuilt make sure that it has been done by one of the better w/shops. Make sure the tune has been done properly, as the rotary's do not like any pinging and will break before you release your foot off the accelerator. If the tune and build are spot on you should have no issues at all.

You have gone to the other extreme, as those are too undersized for a 9.5" rim

Have a few things to do after work; if i get a chance i'll be there!.

I had 275 on my 8" rim; till it was time to buy a new set of rear tyres and was told it was illegal and unsafe to run anything wider than 245 on an 8" rim.

Well you better tell Nismo to sack all their design engineers.

Ferah, GTT and GTR are both illegal on your P's and with you number plate you are not really hiding what's under the bonnet

Till you start twisting/poping drive shafts or breaking bushes, etc. Mechanical LSD FTW!!

I'm in!! PS: Anyone from the West feel like cruising up together, on the day?

If you have lost the urge to drive it or you feel like the car is just there to get you around, then sell it. But if you love driving it still and enjoy having it in your driveway then you'll be mad to sell it. It has caused you a fair bit of grief and hardship, when you imported it, but now it's an awesome car and has only just recently seen the road. Are YOU ready to let it go so soon?

I am curious as to how you accidentally inserted a diesel fuel pump nozzle into the smaller unleaded hole of your fuel tank snorkel. Also most diesel pumps have a manual trigger that you have to lift or push, after removing the hose from it's location, to start the pump. And after all that why would you "accidentally" try to start it . - Syphon the tank and replace fuel filter - Fill with 98ron - Prime the engine 20 times: Turn key to "on" position then back to "off" or "acc" (do not "accidentally" start the car, by turning key all the way to "start") - Syphon tank and replace fuel filter... again - Fill with a fresh batch of 98ron (may also pay to pour a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank before filling) - Prime a few more times - Then try to start the engine and see what happens One thing for sure it's going to be an expensive lesson, good luck!

Have to agree; does look like a rb25de. As stated above, take a pic of the exhaust side to determine if it's a det or a de DET's have the "hump" at the rear of each cam cover

Any pics of the red car in this pic. Looks VERY similar to mine!

You made it sound as if you had another major issue. At DECA you were saying that the car was only a bee's d*ck from being finished, and after reading the above line i thought you had just pulled it out again. My car is all sweet Went to my mate's place and did a comp test, once i returned to Melb, all is ok. Dry test: 150psi +/- 2psi across all 6 cylinders Wet test: 160psi across all cylinders. Plugs were also nice and clean; proving that no oil had gone past the pistons and that my mechanic has come leaps and bounds with his tuning, as with past tunes it wouldn't be uncommon to find them fowled with too much fuel . I did find that the oil was over-filled by at least 5mm over the "H" mark on the dipstick. I also think the design of the catch-can is flawed and needs to be revised, as well as relocating the return line from the catch-can to the sump. The oil issue only showed up at DECA, most probably due to the hand-brake turns and quick direction changes. I never had "blow-by" on the multiple dyno runs the car has had or on the various "spirited" cruises i have done. Either way my mind is at ease as i am now confident that the engine has been built properly and is sound. I am sorry/disappointed that you never had a ride in it, or even drove it, as that was my intention; oh well there is always next DECA

Yep.......................the caliper

Agreed.... So many nice cars there today. Congrates to everyone for making this show one of the biggest the club has ever held. Was good to catch up with everyone, hope to see you all again at the next event. Nice pics people, keep them coming.

WHAT NOW!? Have you picked up that car from Bendigo? How did the other one go, the one you wanted to look at on the way back home?

You know how to shatter a man's dream If an rb26 can be fitted into a 240, what makes the rb30det so difficult? I had already factored in a very decent roll cage, brakes and suspension set-up.

That's awesome Joel

Just came across this thread. Hear are my pics: Previous engine bay setup Current setup The engine bay was stripped bar and painted so most of the brackets, supports, reservoirs, etc were powder coated

That's one of my plans if the car gets defected. Buy a Stagea, do an engine swap, clear the defect on the 33 and sell it. Or Slip the rb30det into a 240Z

I know that the rb25 head can flow big numbers with tomei poncams, extensive head porting and tomei valve springs. My mechanic has achieved 484rwkw using the above mods to the rb25 head; that's on C16 race fuel, 35psi boost, no NOS, and using an rb25det (not an rb30det). I myself have done the above and have made 325rwkw, using a GT30R (500hp) turbo, 18psi and on pump fuel (BP Ultimate). Having said that, it would probably be cheaper to sell the rb25 head and buy the rb26 head. That way you will also have the benefits of solid lifters, be able to run bigger cams and multi TB's. The major cost is in the porting, as a good head porting job can cost you in excess of $1600.

Have you tried ebay or the trading post? Last time i looked there were a few on there, but i haven't looked for a loooong time.

Sounds fair: A $3000 vn for a $10000 r33

Unfortunately in today's market you'll be struggling to sell it for $16K I have heard of people buying R33 S2 GTSTs for $12k.