Al

R31Nismoid I (As long as my car is back on the road!) Better meet up at 9:00am so that we leave by 9:15am. Silver-Arrowz As you come into Geelong pull into Macca's and we will meet you there, then continue to the Geelong waterfront botanical gardens. I don't know were that is either, but nothing a Melways can't fix .

Hanging rock is near Mt. Macidon (spelling?), about half hour past Calder Park raceway. I have been every year, for the past few years and it is great. I would love to see a whole group of us making a presance. But i will be in two minds whether to put my car with my club display or with you guys and girls. Maybe we can organise the two clubs to be side-by-side, then i am in a win win situation Unfortunately my car was in the workshop on that day

I can't believe what i am reading. When my fuel gauge reads 1/4 i hit the pumps. This is to avoid any sh1t in the tank from being sucked through and blocking filters, injectors, etc. Also prevents the engine running lean when cornering hard. Just remember Australia was one of the worst supplies of fuel in the world. I have read that farmers in europe wouldn't use our grade of fuel in their tractors, due to it's impurities.

Is the knight rider light legal (ie: have you been hasselled by the cops). It is the kind of thing that would attract attention.

db limit for the exhaust is 90 db. Go to an exhaust center and tell them to decrease the db to legal limits. Once you have passed your epa test ask them for some kind of certificate, this usally has a diagram of your exhaust system. If you get hasselled by the cops again (Oops, sorry cops ) just show them the certificate.

If you want to here it i will be happy to show you. But this will have to wait as my car is off the road for a couple of weeks . Just PM me if you are interested.

Just suggesting an alternative. When i got my exhaust done, i just went to the local exhaust centre, asked them to make up a mandrel bent exhaust system for my car (from the turbo back), with a high flow cat and a "turbo smart" staight through muffler. All brand new, and sounds great. 2nd option is to but one second hand from places like jms (www.japanesemotorsport.com.au). These are only usally cat back systems, so you still have the restrictive front pipe and cat, robbing your car of rwkw.

You have tweaked my intersest. Keep me posted on date, time, meeting point. I am from the west If possible please PM me with these details so i don't forget!

DR_DRIFT Did you get my email as i have had no reply. I am after the ash-tray, how does $10 sound. If not name a reasonable price. I am from melbourne and can pick it up asap.

R33NT These mods were done to my car b4 i knew this forum existed. A bit of common sense, and thought should go into every mod. ie: engines work better and safer with cooler air and temp. so why replace a sealed factory box, with an "open to hot air" pod. BOTTOM LINE (My prospective) I have a quality pod, in a sealed aluminum partition. Not sure of any gains, but definately not worse than factory, with one major +ve: I LOVE THE SOUND!. ps:I respect other people opinions and listen to all views (my mate hates the sound), but at the end of the day, it is my car.

I AM DEFFINATELY INTERESTED Is this for a R33 GTST? Are these part new? If not how much usage have they had (km & time in car) What brand is the plenum? When does full boost kick in? What type of injectors (brand name, etc) PLEASE PM OR EMAIL ME WITH YOUR RESPONSE AND PICS. THANKS!

Just a suggestion. When at the lights take off at the second yellow, by the time the car starts moving the light would have turned green. This should halve your reaction time, mine was. :GRIN

R33NT is spot on. Only use a pod when you have a fmic. Then seal the pod in a custom box and with the remaining ic hole resize it to fit a 4-5 inch drain pipe, scooping air from the far right hand hole (passenger side) in the front bar (standard front bar).

Once you have your windows working again, just check to see if the rubbers are "pressed" too hard against the glass. This can cause exessive pressure, causing the motor to burn out. Also listen for any difference in sound as you wind the windows up and down between the passenger side and drivers side. Just my 2c.

My car does the same thing, i think it is the fuel. I also use Mobile 8000. Could the problem also be due to too much fuel at high rpms?

What makes an aftermarket boost gauge so definate? I do not see the need for these show-off gauges, if you have a reliable bleed valve and have dynoed the car.

Never use Armarol on your car, as it contains silicon. Once you stop using it, the silicon will start to dry up and shrink, running a risk of cracking your dash and so on

I live in Delahey (near Sydenham and Taylors Lakes), but my work involves travelling from place to place and i have been to epping plaza many times (work at many shopping centres all over the state and just over the boarders)

Any aftermarket ecu or piggy-back system is illegal, as it alters the emissons of the car. That is why i have put one in An alternative to the Power FC is the new WOLF 3D V4 R33 plug-in. Costs about $1400, has a s**t load of adjustable features and works a treat. I am not affiliated with WOLF, but just put one in my car. Unfortunately i have incountered a couple of grimlins from the ecu. 1/ Had to temporarily disconnect my A/C as it wouldn't turn off. 2/ Have been playing Russan roulette on start-up as the idiotic software programmer decided to put a 40 degree advancement on the ignition timing at start-up. Wolf has since upgraded s/w and h/w in the unit and my car is going in next week to be upgraded and retuned free of charge. Apart from the two issues the wolf has been excellant with a very noticable differance in low and mid range power. A bonus feature of the Wolf is the immobiliser option. To start the car the driver has to enter a pin code through the hand controller (Approx. $250 extra for hand controller). What better way to stop those #@*#in theives than switching off your ecu (no wires that can be bypassed, etc.)

Any pics on where they go?

Just some information for you. When you roll your gaurds you run a high risk of cracking the paint, so be prepared to live with it or repaint your gaurds. At one time i was about to roll my gaurds, but when i asked for a garantee against damage or cracking they wouldn't give one. In fact the person said that there is a good chance that the paint would crack. That's my 2c worth Al

Victorian wreckers are a ****in rip off. I was after a pair the front bar standard indicator assy (the ones without the fog lamps). A certain wrecker (Just Jap in Thomastown) wanted $150 each for second hand items. I ended up buying brand new ones from a NISSAN dealership for $75 each, same day pick-up (ordered them at 8:30am, picked them up at 3:30pm). Moral of the story; Check at dealerships first, to find out new price, then go to these w****ers.

What are you looking for? Which suburbs is NE, and how far are you willing to travel?

If anyone in VICTORIA would like to be in a group buy, i would like to be in it. PM me and let me know, please. I am assuming that the WOLF 3D V4 ems could take full advantage of this, and can eliminate the NVCS. This buy would need to happen soon though, as my WOLF is being upgraded and retuned next week (to eliminate some minor bugs)

This may have been asked b4, but i will ask again. I have just purchased a set of 19 inch rims and tyres. The tyres are Hankook silica (not sure of type), with profile, at rear, 275/30/19. These feel great while driving (better than my 205/50/16 Yokahamas on my stockies), but i feel i am able to spin the wheels too easily . Even though i enjoy this, it indicates a lack of traction. Can anyone recommend a set of tyres that have a soft ride (the car wears Tein adjustables all round), and maximum traction/handling especially in the wet? Thanks Al